I was wondering if anyone had a solution to adjusting the hooks on kwikfish so that you can get a hook set into one of those springers. I had several hits but was unable to get a hookup. I appreciate any info. Also had the same problem trolling mag warts at Drano.

Make sure your hooks are razor sharp! If they are not a threat when miss handled.....sharpen em' up. Sticky sharp hooks can make all the difference in the world on those days were they dont hang on long.

I don't have the fix all to hooking every take down on your KwikFish but this has worked well for me. First remove the belly hook and split ring. Then remove the tail hook. Next, add the extra split ring from the belly hook to the split ring on the tail. Then place the tail hook back on the KwikFish. When finished all you should have is a tail hook that has been extended one split ring length. I've found running just one hook gives the fish less leverage as well as makes them easier to bait wrap. Good luck and let me know if this works for you.

Good advice ,but one thing that helps me is i add a swivel between the split ring so when mr springer!! grabs it and turns the plug stays sraight no leverage aginst the plug he turns freely... Bathtub Bob

I think I may have the solution to this problem of so many 'nooks coming off Kwikfish/Flatfish. The idea came from what I have used for years on my Warts with great sucess. The stock versions of Warts and especially Kwikies flap all over the place and are prone to poor peripheral hookups. What I do is remove both stock hooks and place a 1" bead swivel chain to the belly eyescrew (not the back tail end) of K-14/15 & T-50's, and 1 1/4" chain to the belly of K-16's and T-55's. I haven't tried it on the K-12 and new K-13's, but I think the 1" chain would also work well on them. Using split rings, add a sticky sharp treble hook to the end of the chain (one size larger than stock treble or large single siwash hook would be good to try also). The reason I didn't pursue this further earlier was the heavier treble on a long chain, and slower current in which these are often used, allowed the hook to sink out of the strike zone. For slower currents or the heavier hook on the bigger ones I use a 1/2" piece of foam cut from backer rod, or other suitable floatant, poke a hole thru it with a prawn threader and twist push it onto the treble's shank before rigging it on thet split ring and chain. I then use a scissors or razor to trim a taper to it, narrower toward the upstream end (doesn't have to be a perfect cone). Then I use a red perma marker pen on the piece of foam for an attractor factor. This rigup keeps that hook stable and right in the strike zone! And not only better for 'nooks, but also for the notoriously quick short striking silvers (which will be thicker than Grandpa's clam chowder this fall!!!).

We removed the trebels and added siwash hooks to our plugs. Trying to minimize damage to the released fish also made them barbless. We didnt loose a huge amount of fish, the thing we did learn was make sure the fish is realy there before picking up yor rod. After over 50 hookups this spring I feel we had a pretty good ratio of hooked to landed about 90% not to bad for plug fishing and only 7 trips out. Have gotten spoiled this spring. Good luck the last couple of days