Please pardon me Killdux for starting a similar thread to your "Kwikfish" post - I wanted the topic title to catch the eye of guys losing fish with these lures so they can try my trick out. ...

I think I may have the solution to this problem of so many springers coming off Kwikfish/Flatfish. The idea came from what I have used for years on my Warts with great success. The stock versions of Warts and especially Kwikies flap the hooks all over the place and are prone to poor peripheral hookups. What I do is remove both stock hooks and place a 1" bead swivel chain to the belly eyescrew (not the back tail end) of K-14/15 & T-50's, and 1 1/4" chain to the belly of K-16's and T-55's. I haven't tried it on the K-12 and new K-13's, but I think the 1" chain would also work well on them. Using split rings, add a stock sticky sharp treble hook to the end of the chain (one size larger than stock treble or large single siwash hook would be good to try also). The reason I didn't pursue this further earlier was the combo heavier treble on a long bead chain and slower currents in which these are often used allowed the hook to sink out of the strike zone. Now, for slower currents or the heavier hook on the bigger ones I use a 1/2" piece of foam cut from backer rod, or other suitable floatant, poke a hole thru it with a prawn threader and twist push it onto the treble's shank before rigging it on the split ring and chain. I then use a scissors or razor to trim a taper to it, narrower toward the upstream end (doesn't have to be a perfect cone, just tapered some). Then I use a red perma marker pen on the piece of foam for an attractor factor. I haven't tried drilling out a 'corky', 'cheater', or small spinning bobber such as a Spin N Glo; but I'd bet they would work great for this. This rigup keeps that hook stable and right in the strike zone! And not only better for 'nooks, but also for the notoriously quick short striking silvers (which will be thicker than Grandpa's clam chowder this fall!!!).
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Know fish or no fish. - RT

[ 04-14-2001: Message edited by: RT ]

RT,

Another thing to use as a hook float is disposable ear plugs. I've seen many different colors and shapes that would probably work well. There are even some out there that are tapered.

Use them before or after having them in your ears for a while. I've heard a little ear wax is killer for lock-jawed fall fish .

FF

I haven't fished for salmon much, but up on the Keni when a fish slams the rod down the guy on the controls slams the gas down for about 2 seconds. By the time the person grabs the rod to set the hook the slack is taken out of the line and you get a good solid hookset. You have to be careful though, if the guy is up and running for a rod that is out the end of the boat, they have a tendicy to keep right on going when you hit the gas

Fishhead5

I've seen exactly what you are talking about on the Kenai Doug. The guide's 'motor set'. I saw one client up there go right overboard. Seen some others come close. Those supposed 35 hp OB's that are actually 45 to 50 hp and with a prop have a pretty good kick out of the hole when the guy on the tiller gets a little twist happy .

RT,

Experienced the frustration firsthand Sunday....went 3 for 7. Any chance you could rig one up and post a picture? I'm having a helluva time visualizing your foam technique (call me slow I guess).

If it really is the best thing since nude hang gliding, maybe post it as a photo lesson on Bob's tips section.

The throttle hook set works in the Ocean silver fishing too. I started doing this a few years ago when barbless hooks became a way of life. Go with a pretty loose drag and gun it when you get bit until the reel buzzes and somebody grabs the rod. This gets the volunteer coho back behind the boat out of the other lines and gives every one a chance to reel up for landing the fish. The side effect is that often other rods go off because of the sudden speed/depth change.

Dang I hate it when I need more than one net at a time.

Eric,

I took some pics of this Kwikfish rigup and they all turned out a little too blurry. I've only got an autofocus cam. May need a pro-type lens for a quality close up?

RT

RT,
After reading your great post on hook setups,
I was trying to come up with a fast way of adding a float and color to Kwik Fish & Mag Wart hook setups. I heated up the eye of the oversized treble hook just enough to melt it through a Cheater without changing the temper of the hook. I made up several different rigs with a variety of colors in about 10 minutes. Used them at Wind River last weekend and had great results. Thanks for your tip!
PS: RT I emailed you with this info hope ya got it.

RT,

In regards to the removing the 2 stock hooks you mention replacing the belly hook with a bead chain but don't mention anything about what to do with the tailhook. Are we to assume it is left off once the bead chain/belly hook is attached?

I ask because all three of the fish we landed were on the tail hook.

Riverliver, that's a good idea for the cheaters; to give the extended hook neutral bouyancy. Sounds both easier and maybe more effective than trimming and coloring foam. Thanks!

Eric - yes, leave off the back tailhook. It will tangle with the beadchain extended hook coming off the belly eyescrew. Also, I think it's that back flapping hook that gets so many marginal hookups that come undone. Besides, you won't need it. You are going to like the results of this custom rigup.

RT