I am gathering supplies to build my first rod
a 9' casting rod for steelies

I have been thumving throught the anglersworkshop catalog, but am overwhelmed by all the choices

I have wood turner
rod blank
30 and 5 minute epoxy

what I need to know is
1)Thread...any particulars on brand or size
2)Handles...Is a kit an ok way to go or should I piece all the components together
I have found that the handle i like doesnt come in a kit. But I am not sure about the measurements. Reel seat suggestions?
3) guides....any likes, dislikes
4)do I need special epoxy, cement for the thread wraps
5) Color preserver, do I need it.
6) brushes ETC, cork reamers, necessity or not

I know these are alot of questions, and pro builders may have endless items or thoughts, but anything will help. ( i.e. success, screwups)

Thanks,
Good fishing

Give this site a try.... Has lots of great information. Search the site and you should find all the answers to your questions.

http://www.rodbuilding.org/list.php?f=2

Try looking at "Jannsnetcraft.com" for kits for rod building.

I've always built mine with the kits, but if you want a really custom touch you can upgrade the parts. Fancy real seat and such.
good luck to you.
glow

1) I use size "A" thread, it looks the best. Keep the wraps tight. Use nylon, more colors and not as touchy with the color preserver and finish.
2) Handle kits are fine if you can find what you want, I always use preformed cork fore and butt grips. Just easier to deal with than cork rings
3) I use the Fuji BNLG's resonable cost and a good guide. You can go with the high end Titanium guides but they are spendy. Almost anything in anglers catalog is a decent guide. I prefer lower profile to the high profile also.
4) Get some Flex Coat finish for your rod. It is real good and fairly easy to use if you follow the directions. Makes the rod look real goo dwhen done.
5) Color Preserver is a good idea otherwise your thread will absorb the finish and darken quite a bit. Can be agood look depening on what you are looking for though.
6) Brushes are need to apply color preserver and finish

Like mentioned before go to rodbuilding.org and there is a great list of tips and also vendors for supplies. Anglers has a wide selection but not the best prices always. Good Luck

Thanks everyone for the help. It is greatly appreciated

I would like to suggest a handbook, if I may?
It's called The Complete Book of Tackle Making
by Pfeiffer. Anglers sells the book and is worth every penny. Pfeiffer explains alot of the basics in rod building in this book, and includes spacing charts as well. Hope it helps.

You can get NCP thread to eliminate the color presever. Gives you a better idea of the final color of thread.

Fool

Addict,

The web site, rodbuilding.org, is pretty cool.

You should use this board's search function, there was sum good info re spine/guide placement and some other associated rod building details recently.

Good luck and let us all know how it turns out (pics would be nice!)

Sincerely,
Roger

Addict,

1) size A is strong and looks good. Use nylon; silk is more difficult to use and is generally used for bamboo rods.
2) Pre-formed handles are fine and often less expensive, but I've found that gluing up the cork rings on the blank and turning the handle myself does a better job of getting it exactly on center.
3) Most guides are of good to excellent quality. Use the ones you like the best.
4) Epoxy is most popular, but I still use spar varnish (5 coats) because it's a lot easier to remove if I need to make a repair or replace an entire set of guides.
5) Color preserver isn't necessary, but the thread darkens about 4 shades without it. Gold thread becomes brown, for example.
6) A disposable brush for glue or epoxy is needed, or a good bristle brush for varnish. At least one reamer, or rasp, to get corks or handles to fit the blank.

Good luck! It's a lot of fun and can also become addictive. I found myself building rods I didn't need.

Sincerely,

Salmo g.

Make the trip to Angler's Workshop. You will be glad you did.

"A" thread with color preserver looks great. Use two coats and let it dry between coats, then I like overnight before applying finish.

Flexcoat finish is the stuff to use. I like the high build. Warm it before you use it and use the hypodermic syringes designed for measuring finish (no silicone anywhere near rod finish).

The epoxy used for rod building is formualted for rod building. I would not use hardware store epoxy. The Rod Bond U-40 two part resin is great for reel seats and corks because it starts the consitency of vaseline so filling the voids under the reel seat is a snap.

Cork needs to be reamed to fit each rod. I have a friend here in Portland that has the corks and guides that you need at a great price and can ream the cork for you for a very reasonable fee. E-mail me for particulars and much more info if you like.

The book I recommend is "Rod-Building Guide" by Tom Kirkman, the same guy who runs the rodbuilding.org site.

Rods can last a lifetime. No need to rush through your first one.

Thanks again for all of the good tips. I was going to ask about flex coat high or light build, but it looks like I got my answer..... high build

I will try the u-40 resin that souns good

I did extend the handle of my salmon rod. I used a metal file to ream out the cork and ended up having the hole off center and to big at the entrance. Will cork reamers remedy this problem?

Patience and lots of test fitting will eliminate the poor fit on cork handles. I use a 3 sizes of round metal files to fit the handles on my rods. I find tht if you start with a small file or reamer,and work up in size,it helps keep the hole round.