Just bloodknoted some 30 lb power pro to 10 lb Izor green. Knot seems rock solid, did some mondo backyard hook-sets with the drag pretty tight....I hate to learn new knots, sooo, will this one work thru a few steelies? Anyboby routinely use this knot?? .......C/22

Here is the recomended knot for Power Pro to mono.
http://www.powerpro.com/using/uniuni.asp

I feel more secure with a double uni-knot myself. Bloodknot is OK if you KNOW it is right.

The reason for this is not just that the uni is easier to tie but because braids and mono are DISPARATE materials. When you tie a double uni you are actually securing the braid to itself and the mono to itself and letting them slide down on each other to lock up. Knots are always stronger when they can seat to the same type material. Hope this helps.

Brad,

I used to use the double blood knot when adding mono to PP, until I went for a hook set one time and came up with nothing but the PP..leader gone!

I use the double-uni knot and it holds superb. Easy to tie, and I'll be glad to show it to you in March if you have not already mastered it by then. Once you have done a few it gets much faster and easier to tie!

Mike

I only use the uni not for PowerPro, too!

I don't have that Gene. The one that connects the line drawing of the knot to the brain to the hands. You should have seen my fishing buddy teach me the egg loop, took most of the night and a bottle of Tangle Ridge....C/22

Ok, I Cowboyed-up (NOT brokeback mt. type!!) And looked over the knot. I actually think I can do this one, without the wiskey...C/22 :p

Another way to join the two lines is with two nail knots. Much like the uni to uni knot but requires the use of a nail knot tool.

Improved cinch knot ...... I use this for tieing mono to braided line, mono to swivels, mono to crane swivels, mono to plugs......hey bottom line, this is the only knot I use!!!!!

Just make sure you "wet" the knot before you pull it tight!!! Works for me!!!

I went back and found the site that teaches "How to tie knots"

http://www.animatedknots.com/truckers/index.php?LogoImage=LogoGrog.jpg

Drifter: That is another knot that I USED to use to connect PP and mono.

If it locks up tight, you are good to go...but I have also had Power Pro slip out of that knot.

I do use the Improved cinch knot for 90% of my tackle, thought. It is excellent for tying on hooks, etc.

The Uni-Uni has never failed me for the PP/mono application.

Mike

LOL! What, no Yukon to "grease the brain" for better tying??

I've got hands that work like feet, and an equal lack of coordination/dexterity with stumpy, arthritic fingers. If *I* can tie that knot then anyone can!!

Mike

Drifter!!!! You just made my day! Now I got the Gene, baby....C/22

We use the uni to uni knot in the store to splice power pro to dacron backing on the reel. Also works with mono.

I have given up on the improved clinch knot and use the Palomar know for tying on hooks, swivels, etc. Much stronger and easier to tie when your hands turn to claws because they are cold and wet. Just tie a bigger loop.

I'm trying to think why I would want to tie mono directly to power pro without a swivel in between. I'm sure it's a terminal tackle difference in preference (like extremely long leaders?), but what is it?

Mike, those clinch and improved clinch knots are less than 100% strength. The palomar and trilene knots are full strength.

Fun5Acres:

I start by tieing "mono", on my spools.......I think its crazy to have a full spool of braided line, so for example if I buy 300 yds of braided line.....I'll measure a area that is 75 yards long, then:
1. fill the spool completely with mono line, I use Ande 10#.

2. Then put the reel on free spool, if level wind or open bail if spinning, walk out the 75 yds., set line on ground....go back to reel, cut line at that point.

3. Now I save that 75 yds. of mono for leader material.

4. Now I take the spool of braided line, tie the improved cinch knot, mono to the braid.

5. Walk out the same 75 yds., cut the braided line. Then wind back on the spool.

6. For those that think the diameter of the braid line is "that much smaller" and won't fill the spool........believe me, you'll have a tough time telling it!!!!!

7. For those that will say "75 yds., WOW, that's not much, and worry about getting "spooled", I say to that.......50+ years of fishing.....I've never been spooled. Maybe I've just been lucky.

8. I'll fish that braided line, until the color leaves the begining 20-30 yds., then reverse the line.

9. At some time, I'll decided to change the braided line........just go down to the braid/mono knot......cut off the braid, put new on.

10. Works for me, and many othes......and I can sure afford to "go all new" but just doesn't make sense.

Sorry for the long post........but its still raining.......grrrrrrr and rivers are "on the rise" again!!!!!!

While I use the uni to uni knot for joining a lot of lines, I have had it fail. Be very cautious using it to join fluorocarbon to GSP lines...I broke off three silvers in a row the year before last.

Talking to some people in the business, I found that the fluorocarbon-superline junction can be a tough one to make work...something about the lack of stretch from both lines or the density of the fluorocarbon. I've had no problems with the mono to super line connection using the same knot.

The knot itself is strong-- the skipper on a charter I fished this year out of Sitka uses it to join his very expensive color-coded GSP braid to plain braid. We caught lots of kings and halibut to 70 pounds or so without a knot failure.

Dennis-- I like to use hi-viz super lines and tie six feet or so of mono to keep from spooking fish. Whether it really matters or not is something else again, but that's why I do it.

Keith

Fun,

Here's some reasons where and why a swivel may not work as well as the double uni:

1. When you want to lay your braid on a bed of mono to keep the braid from slipping or piling up on the reel.

2. If you want a LONGER mono or shock tippet that will cast and reel easily through your guides in order to:
a. reduce abrasion at terminal end when drift fishing
b. reduce line visibility at terminal end
c. increase shock absorbancy or introduce some line stretch

3. The connection to a swivel has two separate knots, while the double uni is a redundant knot which decreases, not increases, the probability of failure if a single knot fails.

4. A knot that seats to itself or at least the same material provides inherently a more grip. This is why the Palomar and “improved” clinch knots are recommended knots to swivel or hook, because they increase the surface area of the line material against the swivel. A bowline knot is a prime example of this strength in action.

5. Each swivel has the potential to introduce a “bolo” effect and increases hinging when casting. The farther up the line the greater the effect, thus reducing overall castability.

6. If you are constantly retying at the terminal end while on the water it is better to use mono for QUICK secure knots when tying off to swivels as braid requires a lot more attention to insure knot strength.

My own experience has confirmed to me what every fly fisherman already knows, which is that these line to line connections are every bit as secure as the line to swivel connections that drift fisherman are used to when they are tied right. In fact whenever I have to break off, the mono usually breaks at the swivel instead of the double uni-knot. Give it a shot I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised.

Drifter, yep, still raining...............

Yeah, what Mooch said. Here I was trying to think up all the reasons to go swivel-less and Mooch whips up a masterpiece, if you fish as good as you can write all the steelies better watch out!...C/22

Thats not lucky. Every angler should hook at least one fish in their lifetime that spools on its first run. I've gotten spooled with 400 yards of 40 pound trilene big game on a accurate conversion, penn 500 jigmaster. Quarter of a mile in one smoking hot run.
That kind of fish will bring you religeon.

V-hawk, just think if you had uni knoted that 40 lb. mono leader to some power pro. You would'ave had 800 yards on that penn & you could have landed that sucker......

Vhawk must have hooked a passing boat or a submarine ; )

Triple surgeons knot; have use it on everything from Trout to Tarpon and have never had a break at the splice

you can find it under the heading of: easiest knots on earth to tie

Some good thoughts here, guys. Thanks for the inputs.
A few points to ponder:

Reeling knots in past the top guide might be OK for spinning gear and pulling plugs, but for bait casting reels I'm afraid the potential for backlashes would be great, no?

I've never had issues with tying directly from main line to leader and used to do it regularly using bloodknots without many problems. But that was mono to mono. I bust off a lot of gear and taking excessive time tying new leaders on when a quick trilene knot to a swivel takes care of it doesn't seem practical. (I believe Mooch covers that aspect in #6)

The "Bolo" affect is a great observation, Mooch.

IMO...the clinch knot (improved or not) is neither quicker and definitely not stronger than the trilene knot. (I only wrap the line 3 times, not the recommended 5 or 6, as I find it has less tendency to bind on itself.)

I did ignore the need to use backing, where a splice is definitely necessary, but the strength there is no issue.

I agree that using hi viz and/or fishing ultra clear low water makes long leaders desirable (necessary?). Thanks again.

Going down to the Res. on Friday to work over some Cook Creek brats. I'm going to go with that blood knot on my float/jig rod and see what happens(30 lb PP to 10 lb Izor) Got the new waterproof Pentax Optio WPi today so I should be able to get some good fish porn for you all to look at when I recover....C/22

Hey Chrome who do you recommend I talk to on the res about Cook? I'm looking at options for next week. I've got a boatload of kids I gotta put into steel or I can't come home. Normally I wouldn't mind but you'd understand if you met the KIDS.
PM me if you want. Thanks.

I don't ever really chime in here, but I actually have something to add here. More of like "my way"

I love the blood knot and rely on it almost ALL of the time while steelheading. Down on the Rogue I did alot of the bug n' bubble. You know, the cracker way to fish a set of weighted nymphs indicator style (before I got my a$$ in gear and picked up a bug rod)! I used 20 lb power pro high vis, blood knotted to eight feet 10lb floro, the rubber band adjustable bubble goes right at the blood knot. Straight to a weighted stone pattern. The floro sinks and I'm able to mend away with the braided main.
I fish the same 8-10ft top shot of mono for drift, and spinner fishing. I like the little bit of shock absorbtion it offers, as well as the better abrasion resistance when bouncing spinners or roe. All the while you get the better feel of the braid.
Blood knots are the rule, at least for me. I've only seen one part ONCE. That was on a super monster spinner take, and I'll chalk it up to a chitty knot.
I DO like to throw in a half hitch on the braid to keep it from slipping though. And I always make sure the knot is up to par. Even if your about to pull your hair out because you fubar'd three in a row...do it again!

MH

Got spooled twice in the same day in 99 fishing Kings with my daughter (early run) on the Samish River.

Hey Chrome/22

I put that very same camera on my B-day wish list. Looking forward to seeing some pics from it and maybe even some feedback about how you like it. Great thread BTW.

Regards,
Rafterman

Trip got canceled, guess the creek is devoid of fish....That sucks I'm ready to rip some lips!!