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#444847 - 07/22/08 12:37 AM Re: Frigging Running lights [Re: WN1A]
Tackle Shack Offline
Juvenile at Sea

Registered: 03/10/08
Posts: 229
Loc: WA
Originally Posted By: WN1A
I gone through this many times with the Perko lights, it is always corrosion. Even if you measure 12 volts, a corroded connection will drop the voltage under load. Just last week I hope I solved the problem permanently, buy LED sealed lights. They are not that expensive, use less power and are brighter. They should last forever unless they are mechanically damaged. My only problem was that I unhooked the trailer while I was getting parts and when I returned I had a $38 ticket for leaving a detached trailer on the street.


it is always corrosion I would clean the terminals/contacts where the bulb meets the source. If there is some kind of spring involved make sure it still works. Sometimes the spring has lost the ability to create presure on the terminals.

Try something like steelwool, emery cloth or sandpaper on the terminls where the bulb contacts the fixture.

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#444851 - 07/22/08 01:00 AM Re: Frigging Running lights [Re: Tackle Shack]
Dave Vedder Offline
Reverend Tarpones

Registered: 10/09/02
Posts: 8379
Loc: West Duvall
Thanks guys. I think I will let Sky Guy come by and try to help me figure it out. I am sure the issue in the rear light is corrosion, as I do have 12 V at the contacts inside the fixture. The front may be yet another issue.

I KNOW I will regret saying this, but at least my tralier lights work well.
_________________________
No huevos no pollo.

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#444886 - 07/22/08 11:09 AM Re: Frigging Running lights [Re: Dave Vedder]
Sol Offline
River Nutrients

Registered: 12/19/03
Posts: 7477
Loc: Poulsbo
Originally Posted By: Dave Vedder
I KNOW I will regret saying this, but at least my tralier lights work well.


Now yer FUC%ED!

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#444956 - 07/22/08 03:36 PM Re: Frigging Running lights [Re: Sol]
slabhunter Offline
River Nutrients

Registered: 01/17/04
Posts: 3761
Loc: Sheltona Beach
Yup, cursed you are. jail

Dave, Did you check at the bulb or the contacts of the fixture? A reading at the bulb would indicate an open in the circuit (bad contact or bad at the bulb.)
_________________________
When we are forgotten, we cease to exist .
Share your outdoor skills.

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#445031 - 07/22/08 08:40 PM Re: Frigging Running lights [Re: slabhunter]
Steelheadman Offline
River Nutrients

Registered: 03/15/99
Posts: 4167
Loc: Poulsbo, WA,USA
I have to fix a bad running light on my trailer. The wire looks to be fried. The copper is black between the wire and the insulation. Might have to rewire it. The wire was loose were it corroded away from the connector.
_________________________
I'd Rather Be Fishing for Summer Steelhead!

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#445206 - 07/23/08 10:13 PM Re: Frigging Running lights [Re: Steelheadman]
Fast and Furious Offline
River Nutrients

Registered: 12/30/07
Posts: 3116
Dave, 12 volts is available. Thats not the same as CURRENT.

Once the current passes thru the light bulb, the 12 volts is gone. If the light is bad or has a bad connection, you can run a test light or volt meter with the red on the hot side of the bulb and black touching the cold side wire. Dont touch ground directly with the black or it will register positive.
The hot lead into the volt meter or test light will register 12 volts if you touch ground.

Do touch those two areas and it will tell you if the ground is good.
You can also switch to OHMS and measure the resistance ONLY with no power going to the circuit. Touch the wire down stream of the bulb and touch the end of the ground wire or touch the frame. You should get a beep. (test it before and touch the two leads together while set on OHMS) You should get almost identicle result. If not you have resistance or the open in the wire.

corrosion causes resistance. In the electrical equation, resistance is going to reduce voltage going to the light and it will not light up. Two bulbs can accomplish the same thing, but in most cases the two bulbs will be dim and yet the voltage will be used up, by the time it gets to the ground.

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