I am toying with the idea of purchasing a new clackacraft and was wondering what the most appropriate model for Forks area rivers would be? I think I am interested in the salmon and steelhead guide model or the high side? any input would be great.

I like my Clack but if I can't argue with what is written above. If I was buying another Clack and buying it new, I would DEFINITELY get the high sider.

I would get a high side Clackacraft without a doubt.....Wait.....I did.



As far as the Duc is concerned I'm not more worried than I'd be in a metal boat at all. This boat is a lot quicker responding than ANY metal boat I've ever rowed.

I've even intentionally pitched it sideways into big standing waves just to see if I could take water over the side and I can't even get it in the boat. Willy is a great boat, but I will stick with the Clacka.

JD

High sider...and don't let the "I Simply Bought a Willies" crowd tell you that a metal boat is better...I've seen a lot more bent aluminum boats than I've ever seen glass boats with holes...as a matter of fact, I've never seen a glass boat with a hole, and I've seen a lot of metal boats bent beyond "plug pulling prime", which is about the only thing a metal boat is better for...pulling plugs.

Fish on...

Todd

God point Todd. I didn't even think about the dent vs hole factor, but there's no doubt I see a lot of dent and not many holes.

JD

I have had 4 high sided Clacka's and 1 low sided Clacka. 2 WIllies and several others including a Valco, Alumaweld and another that I can't remember it's maker but it's a very popular fiberglass boat. Just remembered, Lavro.

If I was to buy another fiberglass boat I would buy the low sided Clacka with the tunnel hull as a guide buddy of mine has one and it is the best rowing one out there. The high sided one's that I had were the worst drift boat I have ever rowed. Last week I rowed an Alumaweld and it was even worse. If I was going to buy another aluminum driftboat it would be the WIllie 17x 60 as I now have a 17x54.

Just my experience and not trying to rag on anyone that has a boat that falls into some of my negatives.

fp

....and the most important thing about the Clacka is Jake at store in Clackamas is absolutely top notch and will take care of you if you do manage to bang up your boat. 100 year warranty it's a joke.

I'm surprised you feel that way about a high side fp. Mine rows like a dream. it's heavier than a low side for sure bit the tunnel hole and gulf stream make it rock.

JD

My guess is fp had the old school high side clacka, not the new one with the tunnel hull.

I owned the orginal 14 ' Lavor in 1973 and later a Clack. Both good boats.

I thought the guy asked what model Clack, not what maker/material.

There are 3 Clack heights: Low Profile, Standard, and a new high side that adds 7" to the side height. I know on some rivers, wind is a factor in rowing ease, and I wonder if the additional high side would add significantly to ease-of-rowing. On the Yak, it can be a factor. For you, I don't know.
I like the idea of the high side, and I doubt the standard height has any added risk factor on swamping than any other boat. For Model, I think the FB would offer more flexibility on # of people, storage, etc. If it was me, I'd get a bench across the back with a top lid opening instead of a pediatal as it gives more storage area, and an extra seat if you need it.

So what is up with the warranty is it just the bottom, not the chines?

Clack's warranty is for 100 years for the original owner. I suppose if you own it for 10 and leave the world, the next owner is out of luck. Warranty covers holes and leaks. Now Lavro's warranty also includes "wearing out" as well as leaks and holes while the property of the original owner. I like Clack's....but I like my Lavros better.

I wouldn't buy a clackacraft or take one out on the op. You'll be scraping layers off the bottom every drift.

I don't like the Clackas little foot brace, I like my feet to be spread out at least to shoulder width when getting on it in the nasty stuff. Plus when your feet are together like that on the brace all day doesn't your junk get all vised?

I have exchanged a few emails with jake at Clack and he told me the warranty includes the damage to the bottom and the chine. I have noticed a few of the op guides running clackas and would think that is a pretty good indication of how the handle the op rivers. Are there any current clack owners here who have had any damage to thier boats as a direct result of them being fiberglass.

I enjoy the guys who say they would never row glass down the OP. I grew up out here rowing a 1975 Lavro with my dad and guess what? Still runnin' rivers like a champ. We have a Willie as well and does the deed too. Lavro has seen all parts of the Duc and never felt concerned. I'd recommend high sides though on the Clack.

It's a lot better than drilling them with a metal boat and denting it up every time. At least if you scrape up a glass boat you can paint it back on. Of course I like going around rocks.

JD

Why not call Clackacraft and see if they have any Forks area guides that are running their boats and then get their take.

DD
Who wonders why they don't offer a Hi-Side jetted model.....hot tub convertible.
Imagine the envy in elk camp with that rig all fired up.
Beware of gay fly guys, though.

I have an older Willie 16 ft and hear the newer clacks are awesome. I would start by looking at the high sides. And I like having a 16 ft willie, thank you very much.

Clacks and Lavro's are perfect for the OP. Especailly where nasty put in's, take out's and portages are concerned.

If I was in the market for a Clack I would have bought Joe's (Rvrfshr) old Clack. Otherwise I would probably go with the 16' salmon/steelheader series.