#623864 - 09/25/10 10:13 AM
Herring Brine
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River Nutrients
Registered: 03/03/09
Posts: 4557
Loc: Somewhere on the planet,I hope
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Ok now after 50 different ways I have decided my one tiny brain cell that I have left ( I did love the 70's ) can not compute. What would be a very simple / straight up not rocket science, herring brine. Oh yes for fresh water. ( GH ) I have tried several but just can not seem to get comfy with them so I am confessing, leaving myself open to ridicule ( KK may be lurking about ) but the way I see it others must go through this thing. Got to be one that I can use and abuse with out feeling guilt.! 
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Dazed and confused.............the fog is closing in
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#624009 - 09/26/10 02:23 AM
Re: Herring Brine
[Re: ]
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Spawner
Registered: 08/30/10
Posts: 656
Loc: Grays Harbor
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I have never used Mrs. Stewarts but rock salt and water worked great for me. I was able to put it in the freezer and the herring were never frozen but stayed usable to a good 2 months. Don't know why it worked but it did.
If you are out in GH and you see the anchovies, catch a few and use them. 2 on a hook gives it a nice flip flop movement with the trailer hook set right at their tails. Is the only thing I have ever managed to get a bite on while trolling.
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Taking my fishing poles with me to a body of water that has fish in it is not an excuse to enjoy the scenery.
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#624015 - 09/26/10 03:10 AM
Re: Herring Brine
[Re: Salmo g.]
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Ornamental Rice Bowl
Registered: 11/24/03
Posts: 12619
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Here's a pretty simple herring brine strategy that works for me: First and foremost: Quality bait. You only want top quality MALE herring in the 1-2yr age class. For some reason, salmon do not like female herring. If you have herring that show any eggs or milt inside them whatsoever, just throw those away...they are way too mushy to troll and are not even worth fishing for sturgeon. To determine which are non-spawning males, it's generally best to count the caudal fin rays and apply the Mylenberg-Lansky Ray-to-Gill Raker ratio. I only use herring that score between 2.3 and 3.3. Also, I have a theory that spring salmon vastly prefer herring harvested North of Whidbey island (more freshwater inputs), or alternatively herring from SE alaska. Or better yet Atlantic herring if you can find them. Fall fish aren't as picky. For the brine, I find it's best to use water from the natal streams that your target fish is returning to. I'll do a little road trip in February each year, and collect water in 5 gallon bladders from the North Santiam, Mckenzie, Trask, the little White Salmon, the Clearwater, Yakima, Salmon River, etc and use each rivers' water in my brine in accord with the general run timing of each strain. I try to harvest brine water from areas upstream of most road stormwater inets to minimize brake pad heavy metal contamination in the brine. Talk to hatchery staff to determine which stocks are expected to return in what numbers for a given year, and plan your water collection accordlingy. Store the bladders in a cool dark basement to inhibit fungal, algal, and protozoan growth. Or better yet in a refrigerated space if you have access to one. As for salts, I've done a bit of research and may keep a few things close to my chest. I will say, the most important thing is to make sure that the type of salt you choose doesn't RAISE the pH of your river water by more than 1. A drop in pH is less problematic as it doesn't denature the cytokinins in the herring blood, at least as long as you don't use a metal container. I use HDPE or laboratory grade polyethlene. If you asked me whether magnesium oxide, silicon dioxide, calcium silicate, and sodium aluminosilicate concentrations in various types of salt had any significant effect on salmon palatability, I would shrug my shoulders. Just sayin. Most commercial bait scents and oils are fine apply to your bait as they are being fished, but I don't reccomend putting them in the brine, because a dead fish's epithelial stomata are all closed, so they don't really absorb anything. Then all you are doing is lessening the shelf life of your mixture, which is a no-no unless you happen to be saavy in the non-sodium based alkaline preservatives that are available now. This is something I plan to learn more about. You can get a lot more complex with this stuff, but I think for an everyday brine that will catch fish, this is the nuts and bolts of it. I hope this helps someone catch a springer this year!
_________________________
"Let every angler who loves to fish think what it would mean to him to find the fish were gone." (Zane Grey) "If you don't kill them, they will spawn." (Carcassman) The Keen Eye MDLong Live the Kings!
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#624024 - 09/26/10 04:40 AM
Re: Herring Brine
[Re: eyeFISH]
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Ornamental Rice Bowl
Registered: 11/24/03
Posts: 12619
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In the interest of full disclosure, the last post was lifted from Riverkeeper of Ifish TIC fame.
_________________________
"Let every angler who loves to fish think what it would mean to him to find the fish were gone." (Zane Grey) "If you don't kill them, they will spawn." (Carcassman) The Keen Eye MDLong Live the Kings!
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#624062 - 09/26/10 12:25 PM
Re: Herring Brine
[Re: ]
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Three Time Spawner
Registered: 01/05/07
Posts: 1551
Loc: Bremerton, Wa.
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Now that I have something to think about, I think its about time to hit the river and digest all that..........dang
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A little common sense is good, more is better. Kitsap Chapter CCA
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#624070 - 09/26/10 12:39 PM
Re: Herring Brine
[Re: eyeFISH]
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BUCK NASTY!!
Registered: 01/26/00
Posts: 6312
Loc: Vancouver, WA
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Here's a pretty simple herring brine strategy that works for me: First and foremost: Quality bait. You only want top quality MALE herring in the 1-2yr age class. For some reason, salmon do not like female herring. If you have herring that show any eggs or milt inside them whatsoever, just throw those away...they are way too mushy to troll and are not even worth fishing for sturgeon. To determine which are non-spawning males, it's generally best to count the caudal fin rays and apply the Mylenberg-Lansky Ray-to-Gill Raker ratio. I only use herring that score between 2.3 and 3.3. Also, I have a theory that spring salmon vastly prefer herring harvested North of Whidbey island (more freshwater inputs), or alternatively herring from SE alaska. Or better yet Atlantic herring if you can find them. Fall fish aren't as picky. For the brine, I find it's best to use water from the natal streams that your target fish is returning to. I'll do a little road trip in February each year, and collect water in 5 gallon bladders from the North Santiam, Mckenzie, Trask, the little White Salmon, the Clearwater, Yakima, Salmon River, etc and use each rivers' water in my brine in accord with the general run timing of each strain. I try to harvest brine water from areas upstream of most road stormwater inets to minimize brake pad heavy metal contamination in the brine. Talk to hatchery staff to determine which stocks are expected to return in what numbers for a given year, and plan your water collection accordlingy. Store the bladders in a cool dark basement to inhibit fungal, algal, and protozoan growth. Or better yet in a refrigerated space if you have access to one. As for salts, I've done a bit of research and may keep a few things close to my chest. I will say, the most important thing is to make sure that the type of salt you choose doesn't RAISE the pH of your river water by more than 1. A drop in pH is less problematic as it doesn't denature the cytokinins in the herring blood, at least as long as you don't use a metal container. I use HDPE or laboratory grade polyethlene. If you asked me whether magnesium oxide, silicon dioxide, calcium silicate, and sodium aluminosilicate concentrations in various types of salt had any significant effect on salmon palatability, I would shrug my shoulders. Just sayin. Most commercial bait scents and oils are fine apply to your bait as they are being fished, but I don't reccomend putting them in the brine, because a dead fish's epithelial stomata are all closed, so they don't really absorb anything. Then all you are doing is lessening the shelf life of your mixture, which is a no-no unless you happen to be saavy in the non-sodium based alkaline preservatives that are available now. This is something I plan to learn more about. You can get a lot more complex with this stuff, but I think for an everyday brine that will catch fish, this is the nuts and bolts of it. I hope this helps someone catch a springer this year! Although a majority of this is on track, some of it is non-sense but that's irrelevant. If it builds confidence so-beit.... Personally, there's no doubt a brined herring outfishes a non-brined herring for spring salmon in the CR but one thing that isn't mentioned above that is the most key factor is water temperature.... The water temp is what decides how much of what chemical and when, not so much the strain of fish.. So I'll leave it at that... But as you work your concoctions and keep your notes you'll come to realize that the right brine at the right water temp and you can dang near catch a fish on every herring in your tray year after year assuming the fish are showing.... It's that important....  The springer will literally turn back down stream and follow the scent trail to eat your herring. A great way to tell how your brine is working is to watch your fish finder. If you're not catching 1 in 4 fish you mark, you need to change things.... Same goes for egg fishing these over-achievers, if you're marking them you should be catching them no matter the time of day....  One last thing.... Most people get hung up on the "green" label herring. Personally I'd take a pack of today's blue's vs. greens 10 to 1, especially in March and most of April. With the colder water temps that persist you get more flash and you can troll a blue label about 1/2 the speed of a green label and still get an A+ thumping spin! Keep in mind the green labels of the younger years used to be what are now the blue labels of today.... Keith 
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It's time to put the red rubber nose away, clown seasons over.
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