Well this is quite a newb question but I'll humble myself and ask it. When looking at a rod blank model number what is it telling you? For instance, say the model number says STR1025C...Does that mean that the blank is 102" long, and that it's a 5 power rod, and is a casting rod? Ok, I know it's a casting rod based on the "C" in the number and I know it would have an "S" in the number if it was a spinning rod. I'm more concerned with being able to decode the number itself and also what the STR means? Also what does each rod power number correspond to in terms of say a 3 power maybe being medium power rod and I'm guessing a 5 power rod would be a med-heavy rod?

I just feel like this is stuff I should know by now so any help is much appreciated. I googled the dog sh it out of it and didn't come up with anything.

Thank you,

Drew

sounds like a typical loomis model number. you're right about the last number being the rod's relative power. "STR" is g-loomis talk for "steelhead rod", "SAR" for salmon(which is a big factor if you're picking up a 1084, it'll either be a fine drift rod, or a meat stick for trolling herring depending on those first 3 letters).

there isn't any uniform code to it between manufacturers, so when in doubt, look for a catalog or give them a call!

As Chum Man said, the initial letters for Loomis are species or technique specific (BBR = back bounce rod, HSR = hot shot rod, SAR = salmon rod, STR = steelhead rod, SJR = spin jig rod, WJR = walleye jig rod, etc.). Then the next two or three digits are rod length in inches, followed by power rating. The power rating is subjective though, depending on the technique or species code. A one-rated salmon rod is heavier than a two-rated steelhead rod, etc. So you need to also look at the line rating, ask around, and just look through the catalog to get a feel for the different blanks.

Lamis are different and sometimes express the rod length in feet and inches, (106 is 10'6") but sometimes just have a number series like 1326T for a 9' salmon moocher with trigger handle, 1000 series graphite.

In other words... good luck!

I'm sadly not in the market for a new rod, especially not the STR1025C (8.6' 8-17lb IMX) at this time... I guess could use a new plug rod but I just happen to have a mint condition Fennwick FS79C that should work quite nice. Mainly though I'm just bored in between fishing adventures and I'm all about soaking up knowledge when I can. Thanks for the clarification on "STR" and "SAR".

Drew

STR 1025C IMX is a very nice drift rod, but I actually like its close cousin from the new STR lineup even better - the STR 1045C. My new favorite rod...

Hopefully this information finally sticks in your head Drew. haha. I know I've explained it a few times. And Nor Cal, I got a question for you, what is it about the new composite loomis blanks that you find to be better? I'm just curious because I've had nothing but really bad luck with these rods as far as durability goes. On the contrary I can beat the dog sh!t out of my loomis classics and they hold up like new.

If the STRs are the new steelhead series of rods, I can confirm that they are THE shite and not shite. Schoenweiss has 2 of them now and they are incredibly light in the hand and incredibly sensitive. I was driftfishing my GL3 1025C (<-KILLER all around rod Drew) and my Sage right before picking up the STR and the STR felt noticibly lighter and more sensitive.

I can't speak to the durability of them but it wouldn't surprise me if you are correct in saying they are more fragile than a lot of other lines.

I have an STR and really like it...well, until most of the eyes got ripped out of the top section..

Oh hey...the troll does come out to play. Haha!