Question: How much weight do you use to get a jig down 3-5' in a medium flow (3 mph) river? It seems that if I use dink floats -- even skinny ones or cut down ones -- if I want to sink the float to the paint I'll be using more weight than is needed to do the job. If I go with a lighter balsa (Thill) float, I'll sink the float entirely if I use more than a couple of #3's on the leader. How important is it to have a jig that's hanging directly below the float? If I'm underweighted and the jig is leading the float downstream, can't I run an extra 1-2' of line below the float to compensate or will there be too much slack in the system to detect light bites?

With those heavily weighted dinks I'm finding it harder to hook up with all that weight down below, and even harder to keep 'em pinned -- there's a lot of weight to fling around when the fish do head shakes. I'm learning to set the hooks extra hard w/ a thumb clamp on the spool but I'm still losing too many.

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PS While Hawk's in the Great Lakes doing X-Files experiments on the steelies' genes, I'm in Singapore causing the locals some consternation when they see me show up at the swamp with a 10 1/2 float rod, dink floats and jigs. I explain that I'm actually steelhead fishing -- that always helps.

why sink the float to the paint? The length of the float is to help keep the line off the water. Just use enough to make it stand up and get the bait down.

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Marty
www.steelheader.net
marty@steelheader.net

Sorry Marty, have to disagree with you on this one and so would many others including float fishing author Dave Vedder. You only want the top 1-2 inches of your dink float showing. Line control and for the sometimes extremely subtle take on your presentation.
SNAGLY, why not just scale down your slinky size, said it yourself in your first sentance, the weight is your problem. So for the Canadian style dink floats now found just about everywhere instead of using a 10 shot slinkie with .300 grain lead, use 8.
For a 12 shot slinkie of .270 grain lead shot use 11 shot. This is exactly what I use slinkie cord shot and all. I am also using about a 3 foot leader with my jigs. Remember jigs are strictly a visual thing and are usually fished in water with 6+ feet of visability. In low clear water conditions I'll with slow to medium flow I'll use a small "Thill" float with no weight, just a jig.
If your float fishing jigs another thing to remember is that you dont want your system
coming straight down river at the fish vertically,(Jig head first) You actually need to thumb your spool and hold back a little on your set up, thus jig hook coming at the fish first, followed by head, leader, weight, ect. Your hook-ups will improve greatly too, keeping a little presure on your line as you back it down the run.
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[This message has been edited by JohnnyCoho (edited 03-25-2000).]

Matching your float/weight/jig system is the key to catching more steelhead on jigs. The choice of various size floats,I use Thills unless it's likely that I'll loose the float,weight, generally hollow core lead cut to size, and different sized jig heads. My jigs vairy from 1/16- with split shot to 1/4+ with no shot. The combination depends on the depth, clarity, flow, structure, and weather conditions. For example, in extremely low water conditions I've used a clear Dennison float about the size of a small pencil--the jig alone will sink the float to the paint line. This system works only in moderate flow , and is difficult to cast. I think that it is imperative to load your float so that the slightest bump affects your float so you've got a chance at the light biters.
My brother and I fished a gin clear river in N. California where he could see fish stacked in a deep, long pool. I cast to them with conventional gear and didn't feel a thing, yet he could see fish move and mouth the baits. I put on a jig and floated it through them and got only a slight jiggle--which was enough to hook fish. Like so many fishing conditions the solution is situational. I enjoy this bb because it offers a chance to hear how others adapt to those challenges. Thanks for your insights & responses.
Snagley--do they require C & R for those wild backwater Singapore steelies?

Hmmm...lots of variety here in techniques.

Personally, I sink the float about half way. With a standard 5.5" dink, this takes about 2.5" of quarter inch pencil lead (held with tubing strung through the line).

If your looking to drop your jig 3-5' in medium flow, I don't think you need any weight other than the jig head. I rarely have a problem getting jigs down to the fish and I usually use 1/32 oz heads. In all but the lowest flows, surface currents are generally faster than currents at depth, so if you're just free spooling, the jig will run behind your float (no matter what the jig weight). Slow the float down some by thumbing your spool.

The ideal situation is what you described. You want the jig slightly ahead of your float. This automatically puts you jig head first, hook behind--when the fish bites, you hook the fish top jaw every time and he's not going anywhere unless the hook bends straight (which has been known to happen). If your losing a lot of fish, your problem may be what I described earlier--jig running behind the float with the head pointing at the fish.

I only add extra split shot or lengthen the leader substantially longer than bottom in faster currents, in which case I really lean on the float, thumbing my spool hard.

As far as light biters, again, leaning on your float and having your jig ahead of your float is the best way to get immediate response from the float (disappearing) when the fish bites. Only in very slow currents do I find that the float won't disappear with a bite. In these conditions, the float starts to dance on top.

Snagly,

I usually stick with either 1/8 oz jigs in winter flows or 1/16 oz jigs for summer run and run them without additional weight under a Thill Turbomaster float. Either way, the jig weight is enough to get the jig down. The Thill floats are pricey, but if you tie your jigs on a lighter leader below the float, you'll usually lose only the jig to snags ( unless you cast the whole setup into the trees). The Thill floats make detecting bites a no-brainer, as any touch of the jig really gets the float either dancing or dunking.

You can't fish real fast or rough water with the Thill floats unless you're doing it out of a boat, but that's another story. If you want some real fun jigging action, try "boondogging" float from a boat, keepin the float/jig slightly downstream from the boat. The key is the constant cast/retrieve/drift, so that you can keep adjusting the depth of the jig. The silicone sleeves that hold your line to the Thill floats make it quick and easy to adjust your jig depth, but you have to continually change it as you go downriver.

Marty is right on about the postiion of the jig and losing fish. If the jighead is pointing downstream, your chance of hooking a fish is greatly diminished. If you're landing fish with the jig placed right in the snoot, you can figure your jig has been facing the right direction.

Good luck.........Fish on..........

Johnny its ok to disagree with me :-). I only add extra weight to my line so I can cast. I rely on the jig for weight if I am using one. While drifting worms or bait (not on jig) I will use split shot or even a sliding slinky to get the tackle down, but its more for casting weight.

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Marty
www.steelheader.net
marty@steelheader.net