OK guys this might be another rehash, but for all of you sensitivity junkies, what's your scoop on the super lines. I've tried the spiderwire fusion and berkley fireline on trout and smallmouths (not a fan of the braids), the fireline was by far my favorite. I found them to be extremely sensitive and enjoyed fishing them, but there's a difference between 2-3lb trout and smallies and salmon and steelhead. I've also heard that they are much harder on fishing rods. Opinions?

another thing, I'll be building a rod soon, what are the best rod components (guides, reel seats) and where can I get them. I've already got a couple of great gloomis blanks. Thanks.

----predator--one------< )))>{

I'm a recent convert to braids for float fishing. The braids float and are considerably thinner so mending line is much easier (night and day difference). I still use mono below the float. I don't advocate using braids for drift fishing because you don't want this stuff hung up on the bottom after breaking off a snag.

If you do hang up, wrap the line around your hand or arm a couple of times before yanking because it will pinch down in your reel. Also keep your rod straight and back out of the snag because the braid can also put grooves into your ceramic guides.

In the past I've found Cabela's rod components to be just fine for rods I've built, and their prices are the most reasonable. I've used Cabelas brand guides (probably Pacific Bays) and reel seats and have been satisfied. Closer to home, Anglers Workshop in Woodland WA has all the components you need, but the prices aren't as good. If your from Oregon, you probably don't have to pay our sales tax though. Check them out at anglersworkshop.com

Good Luck

I pretty much only fish Fireline anymore on my spinning setups for spoons, spinners and jigs too. I've never had a snag that broke the line before yanking the snag loose or bending the hook. I'd watch it when wrapping that stuff around your hands. You might end up with a nasty cut. Yes, it does seem to pinch the spool a bit but a few casts later and the line is coming off just as well as before. I love it for the sensitivity and find it holds up a LOT better over the long run than mono. Still use the mono on plugging rods though.

Bruce

You're right, the Board covered this ground before but that was long ago. As someone who uses Fireline (coated gelspun polyethylene) for 80% of my fishing, my overall recommendation is to forget this stuff for drift fishing. I would use braid for jigs (though not from a moving boat as breaking off on a snag could give you serious cuts), pulling plugs (excellent: no stretch) and, though I haven't done it, mooching (improved sensitivity). Other thoughts on Fireline vs. mono:

1. Thinner, stronger (14lb breaks at 18-20lbs) and more durable than mono and in general represent value for money for CERTAIN applications.

2. Generally good abrasion resistance to wood; generally v. poor with rocks, barnacles and other sharp stuff. DOES NOT cause extra wear on rod guides or reel pickups! (DOES tend to bury if not wound on very, very tightly.) Does not blow up drags or ruin gears in reels either -- unless you overload a reel by spooling 30lb test and then locking the drag up! (Remember, it's not the line's fault here it's the angler's fault.)

3. Poor knot strength! Joining Fireline to mono (or fluorocarbon) can be done in one of two ways for a strong join: (a) using a swivel or (b) doubling the Fireline w/ a Bimini Twist or Spider Hitch and then using an 'improved' Albright to join the mono/ FC leader to the Fireline. Sounds complicated but if you fish for strong fish in tight quarters (snook, tarpon in the Everglades is close to what I do in Singapore) then you need the full strength of the line.

Email me if you want a more detailed description but this knot system is beginning to appear in knot books, most notably Geoff Wilson's 'Complete Book of Fishing Knots & Rigs'-- page 23 for the 'Improved Albright'.

4. Dangerous line to use from a moving boat as it can't be broken quickly and can CUT deeply. I've had this stuff cut through Neoprene gloves in 20lb test. In tests over 10lbs it has to be broken by wrapping it around something inanimate (plier handles, a short section of broomstick, whatever). If the boat's moving, often you don't have time to do more than make a few wraps around an arm or a hand and then hanging on. It's asking for trouble to do this. That's why I use mono for jig fishing from a boat -- I snag up often enough that I would risk line cuts if I used Fireline.

Hope this helps.

Predator
What kind of rods are you building? I recomend the Silicon carbide rings for casting guides. I have also had good luck with the Titanium oxide rings.

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Marty
www.steelheader.net
marty@steelheader.net

Predator- Dang! I have an extremely comprehensive 6 page article on this subject. But this is your post thread and you limited me to only 5 pages. Just kidding. My long rambles deserved the dig.- RT

4u

Like I said I purchased the 1025 blanks, and I'm going to build a spinning rod out of both of them. These are rods that my father and I are going to use for everything, springers, steelies summer and winter, every situation. I'm a college student and my father is on leave of absence for medical reasons: tight budgets = all around rods. I think I want to go with fuji SiC guides, how do I know what sizes to buy and do I need high guides or standard.

Speaking of college, I will be returning to Puget Sound Christian College to begin my sophomore year at the beginning of September. PSCC is in Edmonds and I've noticed a lot of posts from seattle, everett, bothel and surrounding areas. I would love it if next fall one of you fellows could take some time to show a beginner the ropes. That would be awesome.

----predator--one------< )))>{

Hey RT,

I'm a college student without a summer job...yet, I can be up all night. When do you sleep. Insomnia?

By the way, where is Cedar Mills?

----predator--one------< )))>{

[This message has been edited by predator one (edited 05-18-2000).]

I would go with regular height in sizes: 30,20,16,10,8,7,7,6 and a hook keeper. Not a big fan of the high guides except with ultra light lines. The higher the guide profile the easier it is to damage them. I do like the single foot spinning guides since it lightens the wraps hence the weight on the rod. The smaller guides on the front of the rod will keep the tip sensitive.

Since your on a budget, I will make you a offer..... I have a rod account set up with Pac Bay(not Fuji) and am getting ready to place a order. I can get you handles, guides and reel seats at My cost + tax and shipping.
Handle- front and rear cork, cushioned graphite reelseat, butt cap and hook keeper. $15.34 includes tax

Guides set -Silicon Carbine rings Black color one foot $27.85....expensive but top of the line

Alternative guide set- Aluminum Oxide rings black color one foot $4.72 includes tax

Will also need to order a tip to match figure under $2 each.

Let me know fast since I plan on placing the order on Friday (ordering 4 weight flyrods for ultra light spinning blanks) and won't be ordering for awhile.
Tight lines

------------------
Marty www.steelheader.net
marty@steelheader.net



[This message has been edited by smilesforu (edited 05-18-2000).]

Predator,
My oldest went to PSCC last year, then he decided to join the navy, Now he`s stationed in Norfolk, But they have some good cheap off Campus housing there.

Marties deal is pretty good. Cabelas sells steelhead/salmon handle kits for about $18. Complete kits including guides at about $30. For 1025s I agree with the standard single foot spinning guides. I love the high profile lights (match spin) for rods like the GL3 1141 ultra lite and lamiglass Herzog light action, but they're not necessary for a 1025 medium heavy. The smaller ones are also pretty delicate.

I've never built a rod with SIC guides, but I do fish over 100 days a year and have not had any problems using the standard Pac Bays. About the only problem I've had is occasionally breaking a high profile match spin guide, something I'm willing to put up with because they feel much more balanced on a light action rod.

A couple seasons ago I tried the fireline on my drift rod I liked everything about it except the sound it made passing thru my guides ,like it was wearing a grove in them so I bagged it I'll stay with my Ande...Might try some thing simular on my spinning outfit maybe? Any suggestions for float fishing

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Row Quietly and fish a Catraft( formerly Steelheader boy)
<'))>><

Marty,

Thanks for the offer but I would like to put a lot of thought into this rod before I begin ordering the parts. I'm expecting the blanks to arrive either tommorrow or next Monday and one is for my father, I don't even know what he will want. I'm also thinking about buying cork rings to make my own handle. One thing I'm interested in is balancing the rod perfectly with my Stradic 4000. I found out that a friend of mine has built several rods in the past, so I figured I'd have him help me out a little.

Rainycity, what is your son's name? I'm sure that I know him, it's not a very big school.

Thanks for the help so far, funny this post started as super vs. mono and turned to rod building.

----predator--one------< )))>{

[This message has been edited by predator one (edited 05-18-2000).]