Just a quick question, I hope it's not too dumb....
Don't those corner anchor systems I see on DBs make the boat whip or weave back and forth when anchoring ?
On another subject, i just added a pulley w/ an attached carabiner to my anchor setup and it's great, it takes about half the effort to pull the 25 lb. pyramid now.

i have the corner on mine... I really like it for the fact that I can use my electric with no problem. But it does sway alot more. I also put the diamond plate transom, which does no good with the corner bc the anchor hits the corner chine not the transom. my .02

I have a corner too and I like it for the same reason as fish-on. It's sweet for a motor set up. It doesn't swing around enough to be a problem, but you can tell its not completely strait. Still not enough to screw you up though. Of course without a motor you really don't need it.
JD

My boat doesn't have it but I've rowed my buddies boat and you only notice it in faster water obviously, but you can staighten it out easily by putting one oar blade up and down and the other flat.

It doesn't seem to be a factor 99% of the time. Maybe swings a little more if anchored in fast water otherwise I cant say it matters. Some guys like them, others don't. It is what came on my used Willie and I like it.

It does protrude more in spinning and bumping situations, like Mule Creek and the Coffeepot on the Rogue. It is more likely to hit the side canyon wall while spinning and could cause the boat to broach in the very narrowest spots under some water conditions -It sticks out another 10 inches or so. I will pull mine off the next time through the coffeepot and put it right back on at the next bar.

They are otherwise easy to use and out of the way with good mechanical advantage when pulling rope. YMMV.

Tried the pulley gig with the anchor........awful. Why drop 2x more rope than needed to stop? Not a biggie in an of itself, but the way back up takes 2x as long. Not too handy in sticky situations.

40# anchors require little scope (angle of the dangle) of the rope. They are the four wheel disc brakes of the river. ........They will give pantywaists butt grapes, though.

If you run a 40lb anchor you better know where to drop it and where not to. 40lbers can get you in trouble as they will stick anywhere.

40# are safer. Where you drop er, is where you stay.

Let a 20# go, and the required rope, factor in some slide, and you might end up putting that 20 somewhere you never inteded.

Root balls eat anchors if they are 40 or 20......the rope tends to be the sticking point, not the lead.

Used to lose a 20# chunk o lead a year. Mr. 40# has lasted six seasons, but he is getting what one may call a "hammered finish".

have the side mount on my 16' alumaweld drifter but it takes 35# to stop it in flows around 3,000 cfs or above. In these cases when anchoring in faster water, I do get the side to side depending on where the weight (ie front passenger) is.

Some guys who sit on anchor will install a 10# off the bow. I always keep my oars in the water thinking that it helps stabilize the side to side some. although logically you would think the opposite?

You can do a lot at anchor with the oars. I row a fairly light lavro though so maybe it works better for me than other heavier boats. Joe I only say that about 40lbers because I have heard of guys dropping anchor in water where a DB should not be anchored it sticks then the boat begins to do the side to side wobble they do before goin down.

Anchoring in fast water whigs me out but I'm sort of a wussy when it comes to that.

I tend to only use my anchor for netting fish and shore breaks.

If you're never going to use a motor then get a center bracket. It isn't the same off to the side. But worth it if you use a motor every now and then.

let me clarify.... I should have said swifter water in the rare case that it is needed. One should never anchor in fast water, especially white water, rapids or anything else harry. I kind of feel as though if one cannot get their DB to anchor with a 35# pyramid, then it is probably too swift and too dangerous to anchor there anyway.

Yea I use a 35lb anchor, and to help with the swaying I usually play with the oar blades( ie one flat one digging) which helps in min flows. I did have a problem anchoring in the S Turns on the Sop when I had the port side oar flat, on top of the water, and the starbird digging. Well It is swirly water and after 4 or 5 minutes my port side oar(flat blade, skimin the surface) got some down pressure, I have no idea how but the blade got sucked straight down. When I noticed and went to fix my oar shot right out of the boat, I couldnt believe it, it bent the stock willie oar locks like nothin I ever seen.

Long story short, I had a extra oar, tried to keep my guys fishin , made calls to guys I knew down river and a mile or so down I ran into a super nice guy with two young kids loading my floating oar. I guess it floated down into their anchor rope.
So ever since then i am way cautious when ancoring.

Good stories. Lots of stories with anchoring which tells us all something about anchoring on a river in itself.

Once on Tenmile Creek on OR coast I was fishing the only fishable water (after heavy rain) I could find on the coast, as the creek drains from the lake and the levels change only a little with rain but lots with tides. It is essentially all sand. I dropped anchor to have lunch, and when I pulled the anchor it was so buried in drifted sand it took me about 20 minutes of dinking with it to get it out. I knew it wasn't snagged,just buried, but I thought I might have to cut off just to get off anchor. Just kind of weird.