Although I've been a hard core fly fisher for decades, I'm not a very well rounded one. I was bit by the steelhead bug early on and never learned some basic trout fishing techniques, like nymphing in moving water. I've known for years that nymphing can be productive for steelhead, especially summer runs and in pocket water, but I never devoted the time to understand how to do it well. A large part of my resistance is that I don't care for casting weighted flies or split shot on my leader. In the past 10 years or so, I've heard that the technique is equally applicible to winter steelheading.

If you use nymphing techniques for steelheading, I'd like your advice and hear about your experience. How long of casts are practicable? How long a leader? How much weight? Casting tips to make the weight less distracting or objectionable? What kind of strike indicator, if any? Does nymphing lend itself to a two-handed rod? (I saw a couple guys doing it, and they had single handed rods in the boat for nymphing and two handers for the wet fly swing.)

I make no value judgements about the acceptability of nymphing, strike indicators - or bobbers, etc.

I'm interested in trying another method for some smaller winter run rivers that don't have much holding water that is suitable to the wet fly swing. The holding water tends to be narrow, relatively deep slots running with the thread of the river. Spinning with a bobber and jig works well in that application, so I've been thinking that a nymphing technique might also serve there.

Sincerely,

Salmo g.

I nymph for salmon\steelhead from time to time.

I don't generally use a strike indicator, but when I do, I rig it like this:

Small\medium corkie
1inch of yarn
9 feet of 8-10lb leader
Flies - various egg patterns, glo bugs, stone flies, caddis, green rock worms, etc - depending on river\timing\conditions, etc

If the fly isn't weighted, just add a small spit shot 18inches up.

Thread leader through corkie, then back through again leaving a loop at the other end.

Put your yarn through this loop and cinch down firmly by grabbing the tag end and the leader - pulling a little yarn into the corky to make a snug fit.

To adjust for depth, just tug on the yarn to loosen it up, adjust length, then snug down again.

Casting isn't so bad - just open up your loops a little. Smaller corkies will have less wind resistance.

In smaller rivers and pocket water, distance usually isn't an issue.


Another method I prefer is to combine nymphing with a swing. In this situation I either use a non or slightly weighted fly and a sink tip to get my fly down. Cast upstream a little, then use various lind mending techniques to keep the fly low as it dead drifts past me. Then finish the drift by letting it swing a little and rise up to the surface. Let it hang for several seonds, then strip it in several feet before casting again. Takes will often be on the rise or hang.


If I don't want to use tips, I'll use tandum flies. You can take a heavier weighted fly as your lead fly, then tie on a smaller egg pattern or nymph for the dropper. Fish off a floating line with 9-12 foot slightly tappered leader. Keep your loops nice an open....

In all situations above - the key is in working\mending the line. The better feel and control you have - the more confidence you have that your fly is in the 'zone'. And the longer you are in the 'zone', well, you get the idea....

Ok, if no judgements made...
From floating flyline, tie leader 1/3 longer than deepest depth fished down to terminal tippet. About 3" from flyline, peg a med. corkie with toothpick(adjustable). Tie on desired nymph(globug, etc....) Add desired weight either twistons, splitshot, or weighted fly 18-24" up from fly. This set-up works best with roll-casts, which are also much more appropriate for small, tight creeks, rivers, etc..... You can work the lanes casting up-stream, and drifting down, letting out line as needed. If the corkie stops, or moves in an unnatural direction, give it the wood!
Maybe not truly flyfishing, but it works.