So I finally have the $$$ to give up my land legs and buy myself a Drift boat.. Needless to say I'm very excited.. Well then I started thinking.. "I know 2 things about Drift Boats, Jack and [Bleeeeep!].." So naturally my firt thought for advice was to ask those who sit in one as often as they can...i.e. most of you who are reading this...

Seeing as how I'm a drift boat Cracker. I'm thinking used boat.. Barking up a brand new boat on my first float I'm sure would make me cry...

So all you master drift boaters... any advice?? all advice/opinions are mutch apreciated!!

THANKS!!!

First some questions:

1) how many people do you want to carry? A smaller boat is easier to handle tow, and row, but will get cramped if you want take out two or three other people.

2) Do you have a basic preference for fiberglass or aluminum? I tend to think they're both fine, but prefer fiberglas myself. Others prefer aluminum. I'd stay away from wood unless you spefically know what you're getting into. I say that as a past owner of two wooden boats.

3) Do you fly fish? Do you want to be able to fly fish two people? Do you want to fly fish in windy country, such as the Yakima, or Montana.

4) Do you feel the need to mount a motor on the boat?

Tell us something about these items, and we'll be better able to help.

Sniggler, there is also a great book Called " Driftboats a complete guide" By Dan Alsup. This book can answer most any question that you have and give some good tips on what to look for in a used boat. It is available through Amato books. Amato Books.com Silver Hilton gave you some great ideas to get you thinking.

Thanks Silver....


1) how many people do you want to carry?

I think I'd like to shoot for 2 people fishing and one on the ores..

2) Do you have a basic preference for fiberglass or aluminum?

I was leaning tward Aluminum.. of a comb of the two... What are the pros/cons of Aluminum vs. fiberglass?? I'm assuming Al is more durable...better suited to Cracker mistakes..??

3) Do you fly fish?

Primary use of boat would be Ironhead and Salmon, I have Family in the Yakima area so I fish the Yakima River almost evry time I make it over there. But this is a secondary concern..

4) Do you feel the need to mount a motor on the boat?

I definitly do not NEED to mount a motor on it.. but the option might be nice.

There is a used Willie on his used boat page. Willies used boats I think you can probably get little better deal than that but that page is a good place to keep looking he does have some good prices on there from time to time.Watch the classafieds on here and over at ifish, there are DB's from time to time.

I have a 17'Willie and it is very comfortable doing the things you listed. I would say go with either 16' or 17' and that way you will be comfortable. I bought the compartment seats and three compartment rowing seat also. Nice to have the storage. I am still learning on the sticks but get better everytime out. The other thing you want to look for is the trailer, get galvanized if you have a choice.

[ 12-27-2001: Message edited by: Firedog ]

Sniggler,
Here is the best advice I can give on buying a DB. Before you go and plunk down a wad of bills on a boat, go out and look at every drift boat you can. Talk to as many boat owners as you can. Check out all the availble options for boats. Dont be oo concerned on what make of boat you wont to buy. For the most part aluminum boats are pretty much the same. Just stay away from RB and Hyde. Willie, Koffler, Fish Rite and Alumaweld are all good bets. Diamond Back is another make I would reccomend checking into.
When you do purchase your boat get 9'6" oars, They are by far the best length for a 16' x 54" boat.

Sniggler,
I bought an almost new 12 foot wood boat this fall. The price was right so I didn't put too much thought into my purchase. However, after doing some research and making a few floats I would make a few changes.

1.) I'd buy something in the 14 to 17 foot range (enough to fish 3 people + gear).
2.) I'd get fiberglass or aluminum since they're less maintenance than wood. I'd be happy with either.
3.) Having the option to add a motor would be nice...its hard work getting back upstream in those situations where you'd like to run a drift more than once plus a motor could be useful for fishing lakes.
4.) Locking storage would be a nice option as I often fish alone and have to tote rods and tackle with me when making it back to the truck.

I agree with you on buying used. With a drift boat its not like you have to wonder about the condition of the engine. All you have to do is look at the boat and you can pretty much tell its condition.
JMS

Sniggler

Given your responses above, if I were you, I'd look for a 16 foot boat. I prefer fiberglass, because it's warmer and glides over shallow rocks better. I have had two glass boats, and currently fish a Lavro. Lavros and Clackacrafts are both extremely durable, and will take pretty powerful hits and come out OK. The chines (bottom edge corner) are just about indestructable. The sides can get punctured, but not easily. I know this from experience.

The warmth thing is not to be underestimated - metal boat floors will just suck the heat out of your feet.

You'll notice that the sharp chined aluminum boats will handle a scootch more precisely than round edged glass boats. It is not enough to worry about, but it is there. If you were planning on floating extremely technical water like the Soleduc, the durability edge of aluminum would be nice. However, you say you are a beginner at rowing - so you have NO BUSINESS floating the Soleduc, Hoh, or some of the other peninsula rivers for at least a few years.

For most of the rivers around Seattle, like the Skagit, Sky, Snoqualmie, Satsop, etc., you'll be fine with any boat, if you learn basic techniques and use your head.

If I were you, I'd watch the ads for a used Clackacraft or Lavro. You might call Lavro and Clackacraft, and see what they have in the way of used boats - they both usually have a selection.

It's a good idea to spend a little time at the ramps at the end of the day, and see what comes off the river. This will give you an idea of what you want to look for.

Finally, in any boat, take a good look at the trailer. Some of the used boats will be on trash trailers, that are more trouble than they are worth. You want a rig with 14 inch wheels, and a spare tire. The larger wheels are helpful for navigating rough put ins. Look for rust as well.

The previous poster is right about the oars. Longer rather than shorter is better. I use 9 footers, but I have a smaller boat (15 feet). You can spend a lot of money on oars, but the basic spruce sticks by smoker are hard to beat. I use Cataraft oars, which Lavro sells. They are light, stiff and sweet, but spendy. Don't know if I would spend the money again, however.

Finally, a safety tip. One of the most important pieces of safety gear in a boat is, are you ready, a pee bucket. That's right. I will not let anyone let fly over the side. 80% of the male drowning victims that the Coast Guard recovers have their fly unzipped. Make your guest use the can, and they'll be safer.

Good luck, and welcome to the ranks of the boat poor.

I have had my Lavro for 5 years now and love it! The folks at Lavro pride themselves on providing top quality boats. The Lavros come in many different variations and are based out of Monroe.

FJ...out.

Sniggler, SH is correct, I have a fiberglass and I love it, it's alot lighter, warmer and quieter than my friend's Al. Fiberglass drift boats are very strong, so don't worry about that. Plus, you don't need a welder to do any repairs. Go used, not new. Steelheaders only inpress themselves. If you have never been down the river before, please go several times with someone who has,like SH. It's alot differant than you think. We don't want to see your name in the news. Enjoy, you'll never want to bank it again.

Thanks for the input guys!! That should get me a good start... Sounds like fiberglass is the way to go.. I've fished outta Al boats b4 in the winter.. and DAMN they were cold....

Silver-- Thanks for the advice on the rivers... I've seen the Hoh and SolDuc in person and have no intention of floating those for a long long long time.. I've rafted some of the meanest whitewater in South America and am fully aware of the power of a river..

Which leads into another question..

Good rivers to learn on?? I've been thinking about that and came up with the Cowlitz, Sky, Sno, Satsop..

I prefer smaller rivers, bout the size of the Wilson.. Anyone have any toughts on good smaller rivers to learn on??

I have an aluminum boat, and I love it. I watched the ads in tha paper for about a month until I came across a deal I could not refuse (thanks Kevin if you are on the board). It is a 16' diamondback; however, as stated earlier, most boats are very similar. Look for the options you want, front seat under-storage, fish box, anchor pulley system (side pulley is nice) motor is a great option-you said not important-so did I, but I'm second guessing that. 9-6 oars are a good thing to think about. I bought 9' oars, with counter balances (the counter balance is the way to go if you pull plugs like I do!), but I am kicking myself for not getting the extra 6". A 16' x 54" is a good boat for the rower and two guys up front. As was indicated, trailer specs are important too. Ours had 12' tires; we flipped the axle and put on 13's. Go for 14" minimum, and a roller bar at the tail end; makes loading and unloading much easier. If you want a closer look at a Diamondback, shoot me an e-mail and you can "play" in mine. Also as was said, shop around; you should be able to find a good used boat. Some of the other guys had lots of faith in their fiberglass boats......sorry, I have to differ on that. But in all honesty, I have not fished out of one of them. Alum Boats have a floor which keeps your feet off of the florr ot the boat; but metal does have a greater heat transfer rate than glass. I just think that Aluminum can take more abuse-I may be wrong on that point because I try to dodge the rocks........as we all do.

I have had a Lavro for six years and love it. Their shop is in Monroe, across the street from the main entrance to the Penitentiary. These boats are hand made not just sprayed into a mold like cheaper glass boats. One thing about Lavro boats is that they sell used for almost the same price as a new boat so why not buy new? Go out and talk to Ron and have him build you a boat to your specs as far as locking compartments, deck heights, bow platforms etc. Go with a 16 foot "Lazy Drifter" for a little over $3K. I've taken mine down the Sole Duc in low water and managed NOT to miss every rock with no problems.

Beezer

[ 12-28-2001: Message edited by: Beezer ]

Sniggler, up here in the great white north we have two rivers perfect to learn on. #1 the Stilly has some nice water for beginners, but also has some nice Head in it too. The Sack {nooksack} has 3 classes of water to learn on, from never been in a drift boat, to lets try some white scary stuff.{not like the sol-duc though} Plus there are some nice Metalheads in it and several put in and pull outs not listed on the map, depending on how long you want to drift. Fish4Steel, you are correct. Alum is stronger.

[ 12-28-2001: Message edited by: G-MAN ]

Lots of good d-boat advice posts. I agree with what Paul (WW) said about sveral of the top boat brands - they are all very good now days. And I agree with looking at used boats because you save a lot of money on boats that are close to good as new if you look around (always seems to be lots for sale).

As for type, I would lean toward an aluminum boat for a beginner. While I agree with what S'ilton said about the better chine strength of modern fiberglass boats, they still are not near as durable as the metal boat chines (where the most punishment occurs). You will be chipping your glass chines and putting Marine-Tex super fiberglass repair putty on them often, if you run rapids much; and you will want to be running good rapids after you learn to row well - for both fish opps and fun.

Don't overlook the best of the wooden boats; if you can keep it garaged to avoid finish deterioration (it's a lot of work to re-finish them). The modern Don Hill and Keith Steele wood d-boats out of Oregon are the most beautiful aesthetic boats on the river. And the most quite over rocks, and also quieter when crackers keep dropping steel pliers on the floor, etc. Metal boats also transfer anchor rope pully noise the worst - usually not wanted; especially in clear water conditions. The wood boats now have jetage super 'shoes' screwed on the bottom - 1/8" or 1/4" sheets of these tough protective compounds. And they can be cut and fit on the outside of the chines and lower 4" of the sides to protect from rock damage. But with all this they are just a bit heavier than the other boats.

If money was not a factor, I personally would get a brand new 17' Willie driftboat with all the goodies; including a good coat of graphite enhanced "Coat It" on the bottom and chines to better slip over rocks (too many guys overlook coating the chines, and that is where they hit and stick on rocks the most). With 3 guys aboard the 17' actually floats this heavy load a little shallower than the 16'. But it doesn't pivot quite as quickly; small diff though. But for tough tactical use I'd rather row a 16'X 54" Willie, double oar pivoting my way down thru the boulder gardens on such as the 'Duc, or upper 6th bridge down on the Nestucca we rowed thru yesterday (with Gary Tills 16x54 Willie). Good luck.

RT

Thanks for all the advice guys!! I'm looking at a '96 Clackacraft 16' that is in decent shape..

couple of questions....

it has a rope type rowing seat... 10 strands of 3/8 rope that suspend your asssss.... how are those to sit in all day long??? seems like it might be kinda uncoumfy..

The other thing I notices was that the Clackacrafts have a different profile if you look at them from the side, than say a Lavro.. The clackacrafts seem to be shalower in the back... any advantages/disadvantages to this.. handling???

any imput/thoughts???

Thanks..!!

Rt is right, My father-in-law is best friends with Keith Steele, and his son Steve Steele. I have an original 16'6 Keith Steele Wood drifter in my garage. In fact it is the second one ever made by the Steele Family and it still looks as good as the day it was built. (1980)
Wood tracks better, rides higher, and is a hell of a lot quieter. (I personally feel) but it all depends on your preference. As far as being chilly in the winter a good Mr.Heater works wonders. Practice, practice, and then practice some more.
Tight Lines

Check out those Diamond Backs! Willie is the inventer of the design all others have coppied for over 20 years. Everyone else copies it, trains welders, and goes to town marketing! Doug at Diamond back is a 1 man show in business over 15 years. Wouldn't you rather pay the welder than the marketing dept., and owner. A basic D.B. starts @ $3400 on trailer with oars. or completely loaded at $4995. Compared to Willies Package @ $6800. Remember the more money you save the more shuttles you can afford.

Sniggler, the rope seats are fine for an all day ride, even in the summer; lets your primary contact with the boat breathe if you know what I mean. As far as drift boat designs go, most boats look somewhat the same from a distance however almost every manufacturer has a different cantor and different amount of freeboard. Lavro has more freeboard than a Hyde for instance and each has its advantages and disadvantages; just depends on what type of water you'll mostly be fishing in. A lot of freeboard catches more wind but keeps out more white water.

Beezer