M40

Posted by: 5 * General Evo

M40 - 03/30/18 02:14 PM

picked up a new Remington 700 LR M40, in .300 Win Mag.. 26 inch heavy barrel, X Mark Pro trigger..

i need to get a rail, rings, and some good glass, im hoping i can get away with not spending 1500-4000 on a scope, but who knows...

will mess with the X Mark trigger before i decide if im gonna change it to a Jewell or Timney...

will be getting a Kohntrol clamp on brake as well...

this one will be interesting when im done with it, thats for sure....


Posted by: Direct-Drive

Re: M40 - 03/30/18 06:12 PM

I was with you until you said clamp-on brake.
At least you didn't say "break" like Paker.

The Ross Schuler brake is a little less offensive than a strappie.
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 03/30/18 06:21 PM

Yeah I've decided I'm not going that route... If I want a brake I'll do it right the first time....
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 03/30/18 07:51 PM

That looks nice, there's one from one company that's says it reduces recoil by 65 percent... I don't "need" one, but I'd like to be able to shoot longer.. I'm not a kid anymore, I used to put 80 rounds out of my 700 7mm, but I was like 19 at the time... 80 out of a .300 in one day you'll be hurting without a brake....
Posted by: Direct-Drive

Re: M40 - 03/31/18 07:08 AM

Originally Posted By: Evo
there's one from one company that's says it reduces recoil by 65 percent...

Don't go by what the company propaganda says.
Go by what the end users say.

Sideblast and uselessness for hunting are factors as well.
You can have a "thread protector" made for hunting.
Machinist/gunsmith will know to indicate on the bore axis for proper thread cutting.
Machists have reported that sometimes thread cutting can cause the muzzle to swell.
Therefore, choose the largest thread diameter that is practical.
Posted by: NickD90

Re: M40 - 03/31/18 08:08 AM

Nice shooter. You could Mag-Na-Port it instead of installing a traditional brake.
It also looks like it's begging for a DBM install.

Is that a Bell and Carlson stock? Is the barrel free floated and bedded? If not, you'll need to do that too...
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 03/31/18 09:45 AM

Scott, thats the plan, 600-1000 is basically what im aiming for, there is this guy from Australia on youtube that shoots a stock barrel and action 700 LR to nearly 2500 yards... hes obviously got a great scope, but theres only 1 modification he did, and it was putting a weird 90 ish angle plate on the butt with a screw for leveling... its amazing actually....



DD, yeah im going to do the research first, im in no hurry for a brake but i would like one... this is one site i have been looking at...

http://www.remington700rifle.com/Accessories.php

Nick, yes, its a Bell and Carlson, and yeah i was thinking that as well yesterday, im going to shoot it first then decide, theres a few options but they arent cheap... there is the Mag Pull kit, but it needs to go into the Mag Pull X Hunter stock, i think its around 150 for the kit, but it will only fit the MP stock, i held one of the rifles fitted with it, loved the feel, but the barrel length was 20 inches and i wanted longer, if i shoot this and like it, i will keep the stock and get a kit... theres one from the link that i posted above, but its 220 and only comes with a 3 round mag, a 10 rounder is another 70 bucks... theres also a company called Kwik Klip, that the kit is 120, and comes with a 4 round mag, and 10 rounders are 55 bucks...

gonna shoot it then decide... i think im gonna buy a cheap scope that i was going to get for the 10/22 (8-32x56) and run some ammo through it to see what it likes, then put the scope on the .22 and get the good one for this rifle... people have said they used them on .338 Lapua Mags without issue, so maybe i will get lucky and be able to not break it... if it breaks, ill get a warranty, hopefully, and start over... if not, great....
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 03/31/18 09:46 AM

https://www.cabelas.com/product/Kwik-Klip-Remington-Model-Clip-Conversion-Kit/741478.uts
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 03/31/18 09:48 AM

oh, Nick, yes is floated, it has an aluminum bedding block, but some have said to glass them, ill decide on that later as well, but its in the front of my list for sure if needed...
Posted by: Direct-Drive

Re: M40 - 03/31/18 11:10 AM


Your rifle has a "BDL" hinged floor plate which make unloading very easy.
Since your not fighting the Hun in Belgium in 1917 you don't need to clip or mag load a bolt action rifle.
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 03/31/18 11:24 AM

correct, i had a BDL and its the same plate... i just figured it would be nice to be able to have more rounds, but more rounds equals more weight, more money(that could be spent on a trigger or whatnot), and more money down range faster in some cases...

im gonna go look at a scope i was looking at right now, it was on sale but im not sure of the magnification, if anything, ill wait and think about this one...

https://www.opticsplanet.com/sightron-siii-ss-8-32x56mm-side-focus-riflescope.html

i can also find it for cheaper than that price, reviews are good as well on multiple sites, but in that price range, i can get a Nightforce (lower end), or even a Vortex... not gonna rush this part thats for sure....
Posted by: Driftin'

Re: M40 - 03/31/18 11:46 AM

SWFA fixed 6 or 10x MQ (NOT the MOA model. They'll be on sale on Tax Day).
EGW 40 moa 700 L/A rail.
Burris XT Signature 30mm pic. rings, medium.
Adjust the X-Mark down to 3# and set TU/OT to minimum & silicone pins. Bang the butt on the floor to make sure it won't AD. You'll be happy.
Forget the loudener. If recoil is a concern, you should've checked your compensatory urges and gone -08 parent, Creedmore or BR case. Any of the latter would handily get you to your 600-1k goal for ringing steel, punching paper or tipping over NA cloven-hoofed critters. For those that savvy, less is often more....

Could all be a waste if you just launch a box Big Green factory fodder with beach ball B/C's and then let it sit.....

One last thing--







You're welcome.
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 03/31/18 05:27 PM

thanks Driftin, quick question, why such a low power scope for that distance? you are talking about the one with the mil dots correct?

ive always used 12-16 power even at 100 yards, i just like to see i guess, but im curious as to why a low fixed power scope would be good for long ranges, ive actually never owned a fixed power scope besides a 4x for a pellet gun...

they do look like good scopes, and the review done on snipercentral looks promising...

the first box of ammo i got was Hornady Match with 178 grain ELD bullets, im going to grab a couple more boxes before i shoot, id like some Bergers, and some Noslers as well, but id like to stay in the match category for factory ammo for what im doing....

Katies dad is giving us a Dillion 650 progressive, and after talking with Randy (Big Daddy) i settled on the .300, was going to go with a 7MM again, but he was right, there are far more bullets to select from in .30 than in 7MM, and my brother owns a Savage 10 .300 mag, so we can reload for just 1 round, not multiple rounds....

for now atleast...

the video, is that a replacement firing pin he is talking about? or is it something that you do to your pin?
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 03/31/18 05:30 PM

oh and recoil isnt a concern, im fine with a .300, they have matches at the Sportsmans club here, and i was going to maybe try a couple this summer, they are 600 yard matches, but i was told theres a couple guys there with .50s that win alot... which is why i was going to go with a higher power scope, so that i could see where im hitting and go for the same mark.... i just dont know how man rounds they fire, if they fire 100 rounds a match, then thats gonna be brutal... Randy runs 212 gr ELD for his 1000 yard gun, at 3200+ FPS, so im sure unbraked, that think kicks like a clydesdale....

i also would like to take it to 2000 if i ever get a chance, which again is why i was thinking an 8-32x50 or the likes....

i know you know your [Bleeeeep!] tho, so i appreciate everything...

you too DD...
Posted by: Driftin'

Re: M40 - 03/31/18 06:48 PM

The old rule is 1X per 100 paces. Seems to work for most applications. 6X if you need FOV for moving targets (hunting). 10X for grins. Anything over 12X starts to run into optical limitations unless you really start to spend hugely. Fixed optics are far more stalwart than variables. The SWFA's have had ham-fisted brutes crank 1,000's of moa/mils into the erector with a flawless RTZ and drown 'em in frigid rivers without fail. They track equally well with stupid amounts of "up" on the erector. Many of the spendy Euro optics can't hang. 10 mils on the glass and 20 or 40 moa on a rail will get you to the next ZIP Code. Just dial up JBM ballistics and add a LRF. It's so easy to connect POA/POI dots even you know who could do it..... *grin*

ELD's are javelins not beach balls. Good guess. There may be more bullet options at 30 cal. but they get pretty heavy for a given B/C with the requisite increase in case volume and costs. Savvy? If not, play with the JBM calculator cited above, comparing your 300 cannon to the diminutive 6BR squirting fast-twist 0.6-ish B/C's for grins. It's physics. Set the output to "mils" to correspond to the recommended optic's MQ reticle. There are advantages to going toward a 6mm as it is far more forgiving on the shoulder and wallet. I don't trust the opinions of those that shoot BMG's.... *grin*

A Blue progressive is better for high volume pistol ammo or 5.56. A good single stage along with a Redding powder thrower/dies will handily spit out loads of quality rifle fodder for most uses. Take a gander at the Forster Co-Ax.

Go to Greg's website and look up his current pricing for the bolt bush fix. Send him your bolt with a PMO for the work and you'll have it back inside 2 weeks. He has a dedicated lathe set up for the work. If it wasn't obvious in the vid, he bushes your bolt face and turns down your OEM pin. He also has his own pins. Again, visit his website and wander around.

Have fun popping primers....
Posted by: Driftin'

Re: M40 - 03/31/18 07:03 PM

SS10x42 MQ
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/01/18 10:52 AM

that was the scope i saw when you brought it up, i actually really like that reticle...

you also gave me another idea, Katies dad used to shoot BR matches, and has a 6BR rifle, he doesnt shoot it anymore, and is moving soon possibly, im going to see what he is going to do with it, and maybe try to buy it... he won with it so its a good setup...

with that said, im sure he also has some nice fixed power scopes, alot of those guys run 25X Leupolds and such, but they are expensive...

she should be talking to him today, and ill find out some more details on it...

how much will the scope be you posted when its on sale, any idea? i almost bought it last night actually....
Posted by: Driftin'

Re: M40 - 04/01/18 07:10 PM

Over the past several years, they can be had for $249 on Tax Day and Black Friday.

Patience, Grasshopper....

And after you have the chance to push a few dozen rounds down range from your 300 and a BR, tell me again which one you'll shoot the most....
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/02/18 02:20 PM

i honestly dont mind recoil much, i was going to go with the 6.5 Creed but i pulled a round out of a box, and immediately thought, "im going to get bored with this", which is a problem i have with rifles, if they are too "weak", i tend to end up selling them... so this time i went with something i was familiar with, im sure it will be ok...

ill grab that SWFA in a couple weeks when it goes on sale, the reviews and what you have said, sounds like a pretty amazing scope for the money, they advertise 100 MOA but all the reviews that ive seen, say people are getting 140-150 MOA from just the scope alone, pair that with a 40 MOA rail, thats 190 MOA, the median range drop for the .300 at 1000 yards is around 145 inches, so at 145 MOA, the scope and rail you suggested im well within the range....

i still do want a high power scope, but now i can get a good one and still shoot the thing before hand... i was going to get a used scope, so i went and looked at one at the pawn shop on Saturday, and immediately changed my mind, im not buying a used scope unless its from someone i know, those idiots at the store could have dropped it, banged it, or whatever, so no go....

then, i saw the sample list on SWFA.com, and thats where i should have been looking for the "used ones" it looks like... the prices seem to be pretty good for great glass there... im going to save little more, maybe get something even nicer than this, but this looks to be a good buy at a later date...


https://samplelist.com/zeiss-5-25x50-conquest-hd5-rifle-scope-demo-b-5.html
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/02/18 02:36 PM

like i said earlier, i like to see, so driftin, would these 2 be bad choices?

same company, same reticle, just 16x or 20x, basically same scope, just higher power.... and they are the exact same price...

https://swfa.com/swfa-ss-20x42-tactical-30mm-riflescope-3.html

https://swfa.com/swfa-ss-16x42-tactical-30mm-riflescope-3.html
Posted by: Direct-Drive

Re: M40 - 04/02/18 04:47 PM

Originally Posted By: Evo
like i said earlier, i like to see, so driftin, would these 2 be bad choices?

same company, same reticle, just 16x or 20x, basically same scope, just higher power.... and they are the exact same price...

https://swfa.com/swfa-ss-20x42-tactical-30mm-riflescope-3.html

https://swfa.com/swfa-ss-16x42-tactical-30mm-riflescope-3.html

At around 12X, on a hot summer day the mirage thing starts to happen.
So there's that.

When I crank it up to 20X I start seein' nekked chicks and palm trees.

smile
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/02/18 05:08 PM

Ok, I'll stick with the 10x for now...

Does that happen with the super high end scopes as well?
Posted by: Driftin'

Re: M40 - 04/02/18 08:45 PM

Have oggled Loopy fixed 36x at BR matches. Looked like I was at the entrance to the I-90 tunnel, not the exit. Eye box was minuscule. YMMV. Goodly number of .mil snipers use fixed 10X glass for the reasons cited above and the ability to mil distance without [Bleeeeep!] with a variable if a LRF is not used. There have also been some revealing comparisons betwixt Kahles, S&B, NF, the high end Bushies and the SWFA. Hard to argue results and bang for the buck but you can try.

Mils not MOA. MilQuad reticle is denoted as MQ per the link provided. Much cleaner reticle. Slow down and figure this shizl out. We'll not discuss FFP/SFP. Do what you want to do....

The other benefit of a fixed optic with turrets that match reticle is the fact that if you can hit paper after a 100 pace bore sight poke, place the MQ reticle crosshairs on the bull for your intended zero (250 paces is a good'n for your 300 if you compared notes from JBM) and then count vertical and lateral mils to your first poke. Spin turrets in accord and the next poke should be dead nutz on. Did that with a retired .mil pard spotting some years back and correctly predicted outcomes. The old dog said, "You really suck at this, don't you." We both laughed....
Posted by: The Moderator

Re: M40 - 04/03/18 12:16 PM

Originally Posted By: Direct-Drive
At least you didn't say "break" like Paker.


I can't spell Toff and Jeak either.

In the field and on the "hunt", my fixed optic Leupolds are second to none.

Don't like the VX I put on the new field gun. Thought it was going to work as a long range plink gun, but not so much. Wish it had a fixed Loopy on it.

I'd think the variables are fine on a bench where one has time to monkey with all the dials.
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/03/18 01:48 PM

ill go with the 10X, i think that reticle will be fun to mess with, i have only messed with 1 mildot style scope, and it was only for a couple rounds so i didnt even use the dots... all my scopes have always been duplex, fine, or target dot reticles... this should easily help take out the guess work at distance for holdover and such, as there are actual impact point dots vs just lines....

as far as the range finder, id like to get one of them as well, i used to have X 1000 Leupold finder but someone stole it years ago...

there is one from ATN (the night vision optics company), that has bluetooth, connects to your phone, and you input your information into the app, and it will tell you the precise elevation and windage clicks you need to apply... its not too terribly expensive, and goes to 1500 yards...

sig also makes one for around 400 that goes to 2k yards, but doesnt have the app or such as the ATN...

im going to be at a fixed range so im not worried about getting one just yet, but i will.....
Posted by: RowVsWade

Re: M40 - 04/05/18 09:19 PM

If you want a brake and you want to do it right the first time get a can and never look back. There’s a lot of good glass out there and unless you plan shooting 1000+ yards you’ll have plenty of good choices for under a grand.

Enjoy the process of setting up a nice rig even if it means doing it in smaller and more affordable steps.
Posted by: RowVsWade

Re: M40 - 04/05/18 09:32 PM

I read on the long range shooters forum that the SWFA is the old Japanese Tasco “sniper” models that didn’t sell at the price point they were asking so SWFA rebranded and added some doodads for modern “riflemen” but the glass is essentially the same. I sold quite a few (Tasco snipers) to guys for their.338 Lapuas and several to one guy for his BMG’s, he loved them. With Vortex, Athlon and several others that have great customer service one has more choices and better quality than higher end scopes of a decade ago. Fixed Leupolds are never a bad choice.

I recently bought a Remington Amish machine gun because they were asking a price I couldn’t pass up. The Leupold was worth the price of the whole package. I sent the Leupold back and got a new one that was exactly what I wanted and that’ll go up to Alaska for a camp rifle and loaner rifle. The.280 ain’t no slouch unlike the gay .270. Lol
Posted by: snit

Re: M40 - 04/05/18 11:06 PM

If you're going to hunt with that long range weapon at all, and you need a range finder, I HIGHLY suggest the Leica Geovid 10x42 HDB's! Fantastic for long range glassing, yet fully ballistic capable binocs. I love mine! One of the best personal investments I've ever made for gear.
Posted by: RowVsWade

Re: M40 - 04/05/18 11:41 PM

You can’t go wrong with Leica.

I’ve got a Leupold rangefinder but if I upgrade I’ll look at the Sig Kilo since the Leica has a 5 or 10 year (don’t remember exactly) warranty on their electronic optics. Leica binos are top of the line and hard to beat.

I use Zeiss scopes on my Sako and Leupolds on everything else.

My binoculars are the made in Germany Minox. Schmidt and Bender makes the glass for the upper end Minox. I’ve been very pleased with them and are as clear as my eyes can discern. My buddy has Swarovski and they’re also great but pretty heavy. The Swarovski have an edge in clarity but not by enough for me to justify the extra cost. If money was no object I’d go with Leica binoculars and Sig Kilo rangefinder. The technology in glass and coatings have come a long way in the last decade.
Posted by: NickD90

Re: M40 - 04/06/18 07:10 AM

I just bought a Vortex Ranger 1500 with angle compensation for hunting and it's very nice. Can't beat the unconditional, transferable lifetime warranty on all Vortex products. Between my scopes, spotter, ranger and bino's - I've moved almost everything over to Vortex. I did just also pick up a Burris red-dot for my War Pig, but only because all of the Vortex RD's were sold out and on back order.

War Pig is going to stand hunt next year. War Pig demands to be fed. If for no other reason than chits and giggles. The anti's say "what do you need that for? You can't hunt with it!" and I say "oh really?". The pics alone with be worth all of the salty tears and ensuing hilarity.

evil
Posted by: snit

Re: M40 - 04/06/18 11:17 AM

RvW - I'm a Zeiss fan as well. I've had 2 Diascope spotters and they've been fantastic! Currently I have a 85MM Diascope, and it's great for the open country we hunt.

When the boy was 11yo, he saved his money and bought a close-out Zeiss 4.5x14 for his Mdl 70 pre-64 .308 that was my great-grand fathers. He's 4-4 with it on deer (3-3 on bucks), including a 406 yard shot. It's clearer than my VX-3's.

I've heard the Sig RF has quite the following. For me, I wanted one less thing in my pocket or around my neck. I think the Leica warranty on my Binocs is 5 years. Everyone prefers lifetime warranties, but I decided if they were going to chit the bed they'd prob do it within 5 years? It's been 3 years now??? and now probs yet except the eye cups crack. Leica has been great about replacing them, and I think I figured out why they crack. I have a pretty good supply of them now.
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/06/18 12:07 PM

i had a used pair of Leica small binos years ago, someone stole them like alot of things i owned... i didnt pay much for them but they were pretty nice... i have an old pair of US Navy Bausch and Lomb binos here somewhere, bit and heavy tho, but see pretty well...

im actually really looking forward to driftin's suggestion of the SWFA scope, and yes RvW, they are basically the old Tasco SS scopes, i have seen those before, but never used them... i had an old Tasco a long time ago that could possibly have been one, but i broke the crosshairs on it, and it was my fault entirely... never even used it as i had nicer ones, but i still regret breaking them....

ive owned Weavers, i had a few Simmons nearly 20 years ago that were very good scopes, now, they are not built as well, ive had 2 Redfields, fairly nice scopes, some others mixed in but never any Leupolds or higher up the food chain...

ill use the sh!t out of the SWFA then save up to get something different if i choose to, Kahles, Zeiss, Swaro, Leupold, Nightforce, Leica, S&B, US Optics, all on my radar, but i want one that will work for me, not a 3k dollar spotting scope....

i started thinking about what driftin said about "letting it sit", and he is right... i watch sh!t on TV or whatever and say, "i can do that", which i can if i wanted to, but is it practical? how many places in WA can you shoot 3k yards? not many, but there are several that you can shoot 600-1k....

bascially i started telling myself that if i go crazy and put some telescope sized scope on this thing, and dont use it, it would be like dumping a bunch of money on a blown small block setting it up for drag racing, then doing burnouts in the front yard on 85 octane gas and never going to the track....

so with that said, driftin, thanks for bringing me back down to practical, i can use the money on other things that will help me become a better shooter, rather than being a better spotter....
Posted by: Driftin'

Re: M40 - 04/06/18 02:23 PM

Originally Posted By: Evo
i started thinking....


Usually a good opening move on any endeavor. Keep it up....

If your new rifle has a stock with an aluminum bedding block, it's likely an H&S Precision. Their blocks have a slight V-shape to them so they contact the action about 30 degrees either side of vertical and work well. The stock's lug well is liberal so make sure when you tighten her down, you stand things up on the butt so the lug is as far aft as gravity will take it without inducing any stresses. Hopefully, the lug is against the block without binding the two action bolts. Bedding the action, like most things, makes for warm-fuzzies. Before you go globbing Acra-Glas Gel or J-B Weld all over, read the beginning sentences above. Work up loads as-is and she if she shines after eliminating variables. If you still want to bed it, there are things you will need to have handy, and to know, to preclude having to hog things out with a Dremel and starting over....

To nip things in the bud when mounting new scope bases/rail, do it dry first to "time" screw revolutions without base/rail first and then with base/rail second. If you get less revolutions on round 2, that particular screw is screwing you. Watch the forward ring/rail mount screw closest as they can oft run into the barrel shank, sit proud and really mess with accuracy. Pull the bolt and oggle inside of receiver to make sure none are proud. Shave threads as required. Only then dope the base/rail screws with blue Lok-Tite and torque the bases/rail down. I also put a *thin* layer of marine grease or Frog Lube paste on the two mating surfaces of the receiver/rail to keep water out.

Set scope's forward/aft location for your comfort/eye box with rings as far apart as possible without bumping the objective bell or parallax ring. To get the scopes vertical crosshair perfectly plumb, a low budget way is to use a quality torpedo level set transverse to the base rail with the rifle swaddled and set up just snug in vise. The flat erector turret on the SWFA will provide a similar perch for the level when you set it in the saddle. Snug rings up a tad and verify all is good to your eyes before doping screws and torquing, making sure to keep the gaps in the rings even from side-to-side. Oggle things again before letting LokTite cure.

In regard to the $pendy optics mentioned above in this thread, how many have erectors that match the reticle for obvious benefits? How many have focus/parallax adjustment down to 10 paces? How many are proven to flawlessly track/RTZ after stupid amounts of MOA/mil inputs? Of those that do, how many are less than 5x the cost of the humble SWFA?

By a mile....
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/06/18 05:15 PM

As I said, I like to see, but I've noticed one hugely important thing after watching videos of reviews, and the one you posted... They are all older gentlemen, and the majority of them wear glasses, and they seem to have no problem with seeing and hitting targets with that scope...

I'm really excited about it actually, I can buy it right now, but saving 50 bucks is saving money so, I can wait a week and a half more...

My stock is a Bell and Carlson, it has an aluminum bedding block as well, here are some specs from Remington...


https://www.remington.com/rifles/bolt-action/model-700/model-700-long-range
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/12/18 05:42 PM

From the looks of it, that scope will not be on sale.. basically only Mil dot, and MOA-Quad scopes are going to be on sale not the Mil-Quad...
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/15/18 05:25 PM

I have a chance to buy a 16x42 Mil-Quad with SWFA tactical rings, sun shade, and caps for 250 right now...

Pass or get it? If it's too much I can always sell it and get the other one... Looks to be in excellent condition, was on a 700 7mm....
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/15/18 05:26 PM

This is from a guy that is downtown, not SWFA..
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/18/18 04:33 PM

i ended up getting it for 240, everything is perfect... rings are good, sun shade is nice, and HOLY SH!T is that glass good for this price of a scope... i can see individual rocks in the concrete from 10 feet away when you adjust the focus..., and at distance, wow, clear as day....

that reticle is going to be FUN, although, after some reading, i have a couple questions....

i ordered that 40 MOA base, you cant buy the 40 anywhere else than EGW and they are 75 bucks, other places have the 20 MOA ones down to around 35-40 bucks... but EGW is cheaper than Nightforce at 120...

am i going to be able to zero this at 100 yards? i usually do ammo testing at that distance, which i suppose isnt really nessecary to zero it, but from what ive read, 40 is pretty high, some guns cant zero at 100, they shoot 10 inches high...

this scope does have a huge travel differential than alot of other scopes however, so should i be OK?

base should be here by Saturday or Monday i think, so i should possibly be able to shoot it by next weekend.... that will also give me some time to fully sight in the Ruger i put together and take it to the Peil shoot at TSC next weekend, or the following... i found what ammo shoots well, so i can now focus on messing with the scope....

i can tell you one thing tho, if that scope which has worked fine on the 10/22 ever breaks or what not, im replacing it with a SWFA, what an excellent quality scope for that kind of money....
Posted by: Driftin'

Re: M40 - 04/20/18 09:16 AM

Originally Posted By: Evo
that reticle is going to be FUN, although, after some reading, i have a couple questions....




So, didja do what I suggested regarding a 6 or 10X for a 40 moa rail? A man's got to know both his and an erector's limitations.

You'll figure it out at some point....

It's not just "focusing" down to 10 paces, read up on parallax.
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/20/18 03:49 PM

im trying to follow you, but you sometimes confuse me rofl

i got the 16X because its mint, it was 240, came with the rings that are very nice tactical rings, the sunshade, which is 20 bucks itself, and the lens caps which are 15, so i figured i got a great deal.. warranty is transferable, no receipt, ect, so i just couldnt pass on it... if i dont like it, or it messes with what im doing, like i said, ill sell it and get a different one... but as of right now, im perfectly happy with it, the thing is amazing, and honestly, i dont know why ive always went right past them when looking at scopes...

i ordered the 40 MOA rail because you had recommended it, and i watched a video from the same guy from the video i posted that explains using rails and getting the full adjustments (moa) out of the scope... the videos i watched about the SWFA, usually they are putting in around 145-150 MOA on the turrets, his Nightforce ATACR, is 120.... so im sure this will have no problem doing what i want it to do...

the rail should be here tomorrow according to USPS tracking...

i ordered a 30MM 12 way folding anti cant bubble level, i had an Amazon gift card i needed to use, so i only ended up paying 25 bucks for it...

the problem im having now, is ammo... most of these places are just hunting every day bullsh!t rounds, with some upper end ones mixed in... Sportsmans has 2 match grade rounds, the Hornady's that i got, and some Atomic that uses Sierra Match King bullets, i called Welchers, and they do have some Hornady Precision Hunter, in 200 grain ELD-X so tomorrow im going to grab a box of them... i may grab a box of Winchester Ballistic Silvertips, i have always had good results with them, so i figure its worth a try in this as well...

cant find Bergers for some reason....
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/20/18 03:51 PM

this is the video...

Posted by: snit

Re: M40 - 04/20/18 11:46 PM

Why not reload?
Posted by: Driftin'

Re: M40 - 04/21/18 10:21 AM

Originally Posted By: Evo
im trying to follow you, but you sometimes confuse me rofl

i ordered the 40 MOA rail because you had recommended it...



Slow down and think. Read what I suggested again from the start. Optic, Rings, Rifle & Bullet have to work together as a unit.

Consider what happens to a given scope's FOV and erector limitations when X's go up from the recommended 6X to 10X to your choice of a 16X. Now consider that with 40 moa of erector travel required by your rail. While you're likely OK and it is advantageous to have extra *up* in the bank, a 250 pace zero and 10 mils on the reticle alone will get you way past what most ever need....

As for factory fodder and components, Hornady's are generally the most for the least. YMMV.

After you establish a zero, pull the elevation turret off, *lightly* dress the two o-rings with silicone grease and drop a rubber hose washer into the revealed space on top of the scope. Align the "0" and gently press the turret back into place. If the bottom of the turret contacts the top of the hose washer, all is well and you can snug down the hex screws. Don't farm tighten them. The turrets are aluminum and the threads can be stripped. If you don't make contact, add another washer and repeat. What did you just do?
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/21/18 10:35 AM

set a zero stop... so that i can always know where zero is without having to remember what revolution on the turret i am...

because any down cranks after zero is established, is fvcking worthless....


i actually watched this video a couple years ago, thank you for reminding me driftin....


Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/21/18 03:03 PM

got my rail today, damn that was fast... excellent service, will be ordering more stuff from EGW...

not really feeling the bipod, i do like them, but i may go the non-pod route this time, not sure yet....

the trigger, im not sure about either... i have an 8 ounce trigger on my .22 (i think its there, or its 13, cant remember) so this one feels a little stiff, but, its still leaps and bounds nicer than most stock triggers out there, so i will shoot it first... if i dont like it, i will get a Calvin Elite and be done with it.... i suppose i could just go with a base Timney as well... ill shoot this first and see how i like it, it is crisp, thats for sure...

still waiting on the bubble level, should be here next week...

have to go get a gun case right now, so ill see ya'll later...

thanks for your help and insight on this guys, i appreciate it....




Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/21/18 04:59 PM

got a nice Plano Max case for 95 bucks... they look good together...


Posted by: Driftin'

Re: M40 - 04/21/18 05:50 PM

BS has a few more Super Chickens than the entire population of Puyallup.

As I mentioned before, the wider the rings are spaced, the more able to resist lateral forces from fumble fingers and other Mother Murphy events. Looks like you could easily go one slot forward and one aft. YMMV.

When you mounted the rings, did you scoot them forward against the pic rail slots? Think about what forces are at play when you pull the trigger. Give some thought to the sequence of torquing down the ring/base fasteners too so you don't induce any stresses.

As I said in my first post, Big Green triggers are easily tuned to personal preferences.

So what do you need to do before you trip the trigger when shooting off of a bipod?
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/21/18 06:16 PM

i left the rings as they were when i got the scope, mainly because im going to put that level on there and id like it to go directly behind the rear ring, so i feel that i should be about dead nuts with the placement and distance before anything hits, it should work perfectly , i suppose i could scoot the first ring forward a notch... do i need a bubble level? probably not, but it may help me so im going to try it.... i dont have a torque driver , yet, i may get one, they arent too spendy, but i had an incident last night that cost me a couple hundred dollars so i just went by "eye/feel", and didnt "farm tighten" them as you said, they are for sure snug, but not the creaking noise you get from over tightening... i also used the blue 242 Loctite on the rail screws....

ill mess with the trigger, it actually isnt all that bad, but after using the one on the .22 most triggers feel off now... i guess thats what happens when you start upgrading... ill use it as is now and see how it goes...

every other bipod that i have bought, has been a Harris, except this one and the cheapo i got for the .22 that actually works great... this is a Blackhawk and to me the springs arent that stiff, but maybe its just the weight of the rifle and my mind messing with me....

ive always slightly leaned into them, very slightly, not putting a ton of pressure on them, but enough to be firm... is that correct?

like i said, ill sh!t can it if i have to and shoot off a bag if need be....

i went to the damn Walmart today to get the hose washers, the ones they had are the shittly black ones, they have little tabs on the side of them as well, in his video they are eraser colored, so i went to the plumbing section and bought a 42 peice Peerless set for plumbing, it has tons of sh!t in there, including a few different sized washers...

after watching Sticks video, this one started automatically, there is a guy that actually makes the things, do you think its worth getting them? they seem pretty precise....

Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/21/18 06:29 PM

Or, are you saying that I need to make sure the gun is level when shooting from a bipod? If so, that level will really help me...
Posted by: Driftin'

Re: M40 - 04/21/18 08:01 PM

Again, slow down a tad on some things and think. One hose seal will likely get you there. If not, 2 will do. Thin nylon washers with the same ID/OD can be had at any hardware store if you want to get precise for far le$$ than what you are considering. Highly unlikely that you'll ever use all the "up" available to you on the platform you now have. YMMV.

Yes, push into a bipod for a number of reasons. Similarly, I don't own one.

Push some quality fodder through it to see what's what. I'm off to tend to other things.
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/22/18 10:41 AM

Originally Posted By: snit
Why not reload?


i will be snit, im just not ready at this point so im going to run factory match ammo through it for now... maybe i will get lucky...
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/23/18 09:49 PM

your right driftin, i noticed something today...

the bubble level is a 12 way, that doesnt matter much, but if i were to put it on the back of the scope like i wanted, it will hit the rear bell, or the front scope ring... sure, i could put it "up" but t creates a snag point... i also noticed that the rear rings, sit forward from regular scope mounts, id rather have it further back, ill put the scope bubble in front, and it can fold forward along the tube... problem solved...

now.... im not liking the distance of the scope that i have to put my head "forward" on the stock... i cant move the scope back any further, the bell will hit....

a friend of minei went to school with, on FB posted some truely impressive rifles on my photo, and i started looking at that, and others, are or is it just rings? or are they cutting the front of the rails off to move the scope back?
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/27/18 05:01 PM

Ok, I moved the rear ring back, went forward a tad and semi snugged them and the scope was canted for some reason...

So I took it to sportsman's and had them level it (I couldn't find one of the 50 torpedo levels I have), and he torqued them for me at 18 in/lbs...

About right correct?

They also bore sighted it for me so I should be good to go this week...
Posted by: The Moderator

Re: M40 - 04/30/18 12:00 PM

Out of curiosity, I take it that you do not own a lapping bar, CDI torque female hex drive (or similar) and something like a Wheeler level? These are BASIC smithing tools that all wanna-be gun smith/owners should own and know how to use.

There was a reason why it was canted - what was that reason, or did they not tell you?

Man, and to think got I razzed on by Sol Dunce for not using a multi-axis cnc machine to make my own receivers, parts, as well as to forge and mill my own barrels. I can't even imagine taking a rifle in to anywhere to mount a scope and bore sight it for me. Ugh.

PS. You get 4 rounds to zero your rifle. First two rounds are to see where the boolit hits the paper and to confirm all bolts and screw are secured in place. You should be happy with the grouping on these two shots and proof that all is tight and well with the rifle and scope.

Since you've listened to Driftin', you've already done your JBM homework and know exactly how many clicks on the dials are needed to make the adjustments to hit your calculated target point at zero from whatever sight in range you are using.

(I normally zero my rifles at 200 or 250 and sight in at 50 only because I don't have to walk as far to set my target.)

Second boolit confirms that you can count clicks at where your paper is standing.

Third boolit hits your second boolit. Loosen the little hex nuts on the dials, set to 0, re-tighten and you're good to go.

Done. Tell us how you do on your 4 boolits. No cheating!

Any more shootin' and you're just doing BigStick a disservice by "breaking in" your rifle.

smile

My last Leopold scope wouldn't take the beloved M1 turret, so I got my free CDS turret from them. It's pre-set for yardage out to 800 or so and not MOA like the M1. Easier on the eyes for those that can't read a chart taped to the side of a stock I guess. Hey, it was free!
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/30/18 12:37 PM

no, i dont own any of those... i was going to buy the Wheeler fat wrench this week... they used a Wheeler level there to level it, and no they didnt tell me, but i didnt need them to, it canted because when tightening the screws, it will turn the scope as the rings start to grip... basically i wasnt paying attention, i thought that the way i was doing it, it would work fine, but it didnt, i didnt have alot of time, so i just brought it with me and had them do it really quick...

ive never had that issue before, but i also have never used scope rings with 3 screws on each side.... that could have been the issue i overlooked....

having it sighted tho, im very happy... the guy that had this on his rifle, was using bases i think, and 0 MOA at that... after they zeroed it at 50, i looked at the UP/DOWN turret, and its almost all the way down to the bottom, which is a good thing... im only going to go UP, so now i litterally have ALL of the up the scope can generate, now i see what driftin was talking about "going into the next area code", i should have well over 100 Mils of travel, the scope advertises at 100, but every single person ive seen with one, shows 145+... thats alot of elevation...

i should be going with someone from here this week, a friend of mine wants to go soon up in the mountains as well, might be tannerite time....

4 should be sufficient, if all goes well...

speaking of "breaking in", the majority of my rifles that i have bought, i got them used from friends or stores, so ive never had to "break in" a barrel, except for the M77 .338 Win Mag i had, but i didnt own that gun for long so...

should i break this in the old 1 shot, patch/solvent, 1 shot, patch/solvent, ect? or should i just shoot it?

thats always a highly debated topic, but im not shooting deer at 100 yards, so if i need to do something different, i want to do it right and not spend a bunch of money on things i dont need... Andy once told me that more people damage their barrels cleaning them, than actually doing any good for the rifle, which i can fully understand, so should i be buying a bore guide and whatnot? i got a snake for the 10/22 which works for what i did with it, but they aint cheap....
Posted by: The Moderator

Re: M40 - 04/30/18 01:06 PM

Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/30/18 01:16 PM

I've seen that, I show everyone that lol...

But, was that rifle never fired? Or was he just doing a funny video?

He has more recent ones shooting the ruggedness of the SWFA scope, doing the same thing...

Are you saying just shoot it?
Posted by: Direct-Drive

Re: M40 - 04/30/18 05:33 PM

Hmmm....Paker is channeling Bigstick.
Weird thread.
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/30/18 06:27 PM

Apparently Gale McMillan says it's a myth... So this time, I'm just going to shoot it...

Worst thing that can happen is I will replace the barrel with a Lilja or Shilen...

Grabbed a box of Hornady precision Hunter with 200 grain ELDX bullets... Heavier can be better, sometimes...
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 04/30/18 06:42 PM

http://www.6mmbr.com/gailmcmbreakin.html
Posted by: The Moderator

Re: M40 - 05/01/18 12:10 PM

Originally Posted By: Direct-Drive
Hmmm....Paker is channeling Bigstick.


I wouldn't say channeling....

But, I would and do pay attention to what BigStick says about scopes, rifles, and shooting, even though I can't understand 99% of any and all BigStick Talk.

Evo would be asking a *lot* fewer questions if he paid closer attention to BS and Driftin'.

Driftin' Talk is right up there. 3/4 of the time I read his posts and say "What the hell did he just type up?" Good thing he doesn't actually talk that way in person because he's another shooter guy one should listen too! smile
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 05/01/18 12:34 PM

im listening, but both of them confuse me sometimes...

i think what driftin and DD as well are doing, is exactly what my dad would do... they are giving me "tips", but also making me research and learn on my own... because you will be far better at it if you do it yourself, vs someone holding your hand the whole way...

and honestly, im grateful for that, and appreciative... it does make it more difficult, but in the end, i will be better off... and thats what matters most, to be better at it than you would if someone just told you how to do it... lots of people get told how to do things, and can never do them correctly... the people that learn to do things correctly on their own, always succeed....
Posted by: Driftin'

Re: M40 - 05/02/18 10:06 PM

Originally Posted By: parker
Driftin' Talk is right up there. 3/4 of the time I read his posts and say "What the hell did he just type up?" Good thing he doesn't actually talk that way in person because he's another shooter guy one should listen too! smile







I speak softly....
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 05/04/18 06:07 PM

Was going to buy the wheeler fat wrench, sportsman's is sold out, they only have the scope kit and I don't want that right now...

So, should I get the regular analog one, or the digital one for 20 bucks more?

I'm thinking about going to the range tomorrow, well see how the day goes...
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 05/05/18 03:52 PM

ok, so it didnt go the way i wanted it to go... but i guess thats that...

i had no feed problems, no hang ups, no burs in the chamber that could make it stick, that part ran fine....

so lets start with the minor issues...

the scope... i lose sight of the crosshairs because they are so fine, its to the point i cant even see the diamonds, its causing me to guess where the crosshairs are before i pull the trigger... i tried messing with the rear parralax dial, but it didnt do anything, i had the rear focus dial set at 120 ish, i was shooting at 100, even with it at 100 it didnt do anything different... im not sure if thats me, or just the fineness of the hairs, but its a slight issue...

the stock is OK, not bad, not great, my 10/22 stock is a hell of alot more comfortable...

the bipod, yanked it...

the rounds, the 178 grainers in the ELD actually shot fairly decent, the bore sight job was a hack job, it was left and high at 100 by about 2 feet each direction, it took me the 4th round till i noticed what was going on... fixed it, 1 hit the paper, then i adjusted and fired the next 4, not that bad, but not great, not what i expected or want... again that could be me...

it HATED the 200 grain ELD-X rounds, 5-7 inch groups at best...

some of that could have been because im losing focus on the hairs, and am pulling the shots... but the 178s performed pretty good for what i was dealing with...

me.. kinda stressed yesterday and today, woke up pissed off and decided to go... the first few went fine, but by the 30th round i could see my heartbeat moving the scope around so i called it a day... i havent eaten anything yet today either, i just got home, and am starving, kinda shaky as well so im going to put most of the blame on me than anything else...

the trigger.... sucks...

recoil isnt "that" bad, but it did start affecting me, im going to shoot it again before i decide if im going to put a brake on it... ill eat first, and make sure that im not thinking about sh!t other than slamming holes through holes..


everything stayed tight, so no rattling affecting anything, was right between 2 AR-10s so that didnt help a ton either, but thats gun ranges for you... im going to get some more 178 ELD's, and some 180 and 190 grain bullets, i know they make a 190 in ELD so we will see how that goes, i think Welchers has some... ill also grab the 200 grain Sierra Match King rounds by Atomic, and see how they do, the ELD's sucked so maybe the MK's will do better... im going to do the 178s again and the 190's first tho...

anyways, this is the best i could do for the day, the fourth shot (bottom), i pulled , otherwise it would have been in the other 3... it should be better than that however... i think im going to get or borrow a lead sled to see if its me or the ammo, or the rifle itself causing issues... but i think it may just be me....



thanks guys....
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 05/05/18 03:57 PM

oh the RSO's are kinda funny, they talk like they know everything... one was explaining to a group of guys next to me about, "if you drop your scope, its done, game over, will never work again....

you should have seen the look on all their faces when i told them what Stick does, and drills 900 yard shots on the first round...

was pretty funny actually....
Posted by: Todd

Re: M40 - 05/06/18 11:12 AM

How long were you waiting between shots?

Fish on...

Todd
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 05/06/18 11:35 AM

id say about 3 minutes or so.. towards the end of the day i did let it get a little warmer, it didnt affect much, didnt let it get hot tho... after it got the warmest, it sat for roughly 8-10 minutes before i fired again...

i started thinking last night about what was going on, and i may have figured part of it out...

the scope issue losing the crosshairs, thats something im going to have to figure out...

the pulling shots, it was the platform... they use these red rests that are like a funky pyramid that goes up to the rest point, at the rest, its about 3 inches wide, by 4 inches...

well i like the rest to be back further, in front of the floor plate, when you put a long rifle on a rest that is 3 inches wide, you create a teeter point, the gun moves freely, which is probably why i could see my heart rate so easily in the scope... if you watch Sticks videos, and nearly any long range shooter, they are shooting off bags, or rucks like Stick, well thats not a teeter point, Stick for instance could have 10 inches to a foot of contact on the bottom of the rifle... makes for a much more stable platform than a 3 inch wide square....

when testing ammo, i like to use rests, like gun sits in it rest... i can get a lead sled for 70 bucks which i may do, but i was also thinking i need a back pack to carry the tools and sh!t back and forth, so i could take that out and stuff my coat or a couple of coats in it and shoot off that, similar to what Stick does....

then, there is the guy from the other videos i posted, he has that plate that comes out of the bottom of the butt, and contacts the ground, but that would require alteration and im not going to go that route i dont think, i want to see if i can get used to this stock first....

i guess it didnt perform that bad, but it still could be better... i havent owned a magnum rifle since my dad died, just some .308s and 7.62X39 and such, last magnum rifle i fired was my brothers .300 win Savage 110, and i fired like 3 rounds out of it... ive also never owned a .300 mag, so im not super used to firing them like i am the 7MM mag...

that teeter point tho, has been bugging the sh!t out of me now that i realized it..... it basically cost me 100 bucks to figure that out....
Posted by: Driftin'

Re: M40 - 05/06/18 12:42 PM

Again, slow down and read/research if you don't know. Especially before you $pend. As I asked my #2 son years ago in his tender youth, "Who's responsible for your education?"

Your fine rifle is akin to the built 350 you've talked about. Tune and enhance but don't be pulling spark plug wires in frustration/ignorance....

Reticle focus is independent of and not the same as the parallax adjustment/optic focus. Pull off the scope's aft BC scope cover and notice the white "+ 0 -" . Twist the eye cup a little one way then t'other until the reticle is sharp and clear to *your* eye. That setting won't change, regardless of distance or optic focus, until your eyes do. To restate the obvious for those that can't discern same, the overall image may be fuzzy if you have the parallax/focus adjustment ring set at 100 yards and you are trying to focus the reticle at a white wall at 20 paces. Savvy?

To repeat myself, read up on optic parallax. Next time you have your rifle on a bench/bags and you have your reticle properly focused, slowly turn the parallax adjustment ring (marked in yards to infinity, not the "+ 0 -" ring) until the viewed image becomes sharp. You're most likely there at longer distances but as a final check, slightly move your head side-to-side. If the reticle doesn't move on the bullseye, your golden and parallax is too. Shoot away. To see the difference, dial the parallax ring until the image gets a tad fuzzy at a target at say 25 paces and then move your head slightly. The reticle will move relative to the fixed bullseye. This is even more important at shorter distances. For my field target air rifle, I have a large diameter side wheel ring on the focus/parallax knob marked in yards to both range distance and adjust parallax when one tries to thread a .177" pellet through a .25" field target's steel face plate at 20 paces.

The front rest should be just aft of the sling lug and positioned consistently from poke-to-poke. There are plenty of vids/articles out there on proper BR shooting form/gear. Try a Rubbermaid tote (like a very short garbage can) to tote all your range gear around.

I'm not going to research it for you but you may not have enough rpm to stabilize heavier/longer bullets. Thus the poor groups for the heavy ELD's. You're probably OK but should check to be sure. By way of analogy, kids can spiral a Nerf football but not a real/larger one....

Finally, I'll suggest that you get a bore guide and a bottle of Barnes CR-10 and *read* the instructions before using it. Do that followed by running a patch dosed with JB Bore Paste until she screams for mercy. Follow that with a few isopropyl patches until they're clean. Since you're not using moly'd bullets, I like FrogLube liquid for bores. Copper fowling will hose accuracy. This process removes that variable. Just as Paker will tell you, always rod from the aft end....

Out.
Posted by: The Moderator

Re: M40 - 05/07/18 11:59 AM

Originally Posted By: Driftin'
ust as Paker will tell you, always rod from the aft end.


Yeah, that does sound like something Paker would tell you.

The JackHammer, on the other hand, would tell you to rod from both ends and bring on a double barrel for good measure.

Fortunately, I do not speak for either of them.
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 05/07/18 02:14 PM

i ran a few patches when i got home, i did it carefully from breech to muzzle, making sure that i didnt smash anything in the throat/breech area, and it honestly wasnt that dirty... i used Remington 40X cleaner...

ordered a bore guide from Midwest Gun Works, should be here by the weekend, then i will run some more patches through it as you said...

what do you mean by running bore paste "till it screams for mercy"? what is it doing? what should i be doing?
Posted by: 5 * General Evo

Re: M40 - 05/13/18 04:34 PM

you were right about the RPM's driftin...

i talked to a gunsmith yesterday about another project im going to be doing soon (Remington 721 in triple duece), and brought up the 700 and the 178s and 200s....

this barrel has a 1:11 twist, the longer heavier bullets cant be stabilized i guess... basically this is the exact same rifle (minus stock most likely) that the USMC snipers use to this day, with kills out to 1500 yards... the bullet they use, is a 175 grain Sierra Match King, hence why the 178s performed so well and the 200s didnt at all....


the problem however, is you cant find any... they need to be handloaded it looks like...

im gonna run those 178s again, those ELD's should be a better bullet than the SMK, and since im not up and running loading yet, thats what my choice is, he said i could also try 168 grain and 180s and 190s but anything longer than that, im not going to get any performance....i think i will try 168s before 180, because its a tad shorter so well see....

i got the bore guide, its a Sinclair, inside of it, you can see what looks like rifling? but there is little burrs coming off the plastic in there, little thread like pieces of plastic, im going to run the bore brush down it and try to scrape them off so they dont end up in the grooves of the rifle then get melted in when i fire a round if i dont get them all out....

sound about right?