Best set up for roof rod rack in fiberglass canopy

Okay, I'm still setting up my new truck. I need an interior rod rack for the fiberglass canopy. The truck has a short box - 6 1/2 feet. Canopy has a carpet-like liner. I do not want to be drilling any holes thru the fiberglass. Ideal set up would hold six- ten rods. Ideas? photos.

I am trying to figure out a way to set it up when I get a new canopy. I was thinking of trying to find one that could suction cup to the window portion of the topper and run rod racks on both sides of the canopy. Haven't found ones that will work yet.

My Daughter gave me a setup called "Rod Saver- Vehicle Rod Carrier system" for x mas. It holds 7 rods and is attached to the window molding of the canopy of my Toyota Tacoma, simply removed 4 screws, put the d rings on and screwed them back in. Works like a champ. It is a web style system, rod butt end slips thru pre sewm hoops and rod tips are held by velcro closure.

I think she got it at Bass Pro Shop- she lives on East Coast

On the window would be too low for me.
You want the rack as high as possible for max clearance and minimum visibility from the outside.

The canopy carpet acts like the "loop" side of the Velcro system.
I would look at the modified shower curtain solution.

The shower curtain that you want is the commercial type that has to be cut to fit. One end is threaded and this is what applies pressure to the opposing walls.
Convert the ends to Velcro "hook".
Wrap the aluminum tubes with tape or non-slip drawer liner.
Pony tail, cloth covered rubber bands are placed over the back tube prior to assembly. These control the butt ends.

A twist tie or the sexier cord stopper + 1/8" shock cord works for the tip ends. There are some heavy duty, reusable twist ties in the hardware stores, now.

There are some pre-built commercial overhead rod rack solutions, but I haven't seen any that I would want.
I especially don't like the sagging, strap type.

I had these in my Snug Top....they're Berkleys and attach with screws.
I took them out. Not practical for my style of rods and they were in the wrong spot.

I can see that the roof of that canopy is reinforced, so they had clearance for the screws.

I bought a canopy (Leer, high top) for a Toyota Tundra 2 years ago at Canopy World in Lynnwood. They installed two wide clothes hanging racks - see this link - http://www.leer.com/Accessories - scroll down to folding clothes hangers. No holes into the canopy top. While they are not specifically designed for holding fishing rods, 2 work well. I use a few strips of velcro to keep the rods from moving laterally on these.

When ordering canopy's, you can request backing installed for rod racks. You could also remove some of the carpet and glue some wood mounting blocks in the right area's. Don't see any reason you could not get some more of the same carpet and cover up the wood blocks.

Here's an idea....
Throw down for the Yakima or Thule rack system and then utilize the through-bolts to adapt to my system
(if you have the standard thickness roof).
http://www.piscatorialpursuits.com/forum...html#Post711343

Full ceiling width, 3/16" x 1-1/2" aluminum flat bar, shaped to the curve of the canopy ceiling and the rubber hooks. You would "borrow" a total of 4 of the Yakima bolts to carry the two bars.
That would be bullet proof, achieve maximum elevation and be very sanitary.

I take it this means that Tye will be up front driving?

Tye is quite happy in the back seat.

I would also rather have the rack on the top of the the canopy but I have yet to see a set up that I would be happy with. I have also not put too much time or effort into looking or coming up with something either.
This is a little low on the list of priorities due to the fact that I need my new canopy first. haha

Dave, are there "ribs" in the roof of your canopy? Maybe an inside pic would help.

I just friction fit 2 boards cut to length above the windows on the canopy put some hd velcro on the butt end and put a metal loop on the front end can fit 8 or so rods fairly easily doubling up on a few slots or run 6 straight accross , on the next one i make i will be using pvc for the sleeves.

Slab,

No Ribs.


Cabelas has this for $20.00 They say it comes with mounting hardware which I assume is screws, but I'm thinking I can find a good glue that will hold it.



Then they have this for $140.00 which is waaaaay more than I want to spend.

The top one looks nice Dave. If you do end up getting it and glueing it let me know how it works out.

That white molded product would work if you can find a way to attach it.
Maybe some 1x4 that was cut a little long would be able to be "convinced" to nest into the carpeting above the window frames. Get the chopsaw out and do some trial and error with some 1x.
Then the white molded product would be mounted to the top of the 1x4 if there was available clearance.
If not, then mount to the bottom of the 1x4 (or 1x3).

With this rack (white) it looks like rods can be manipulated while just reaching into the truck.....this is a big plus.
On rough roads they could bounce out unless they were twist-tied at the tips especially.

The second one pictured would require constant crawling back to manipulate the tip end. A big pain in the a$$.

As I think this through Dave, you could possibly get what you need with some 1x4 and a hole saw.

Clear cedar would be a good choice because it's light.
The flat 1x's would go in first and then you would form a tee shape with the "holed" pieces on top if there was clearance.
If not they would go on the bottom.

Basically a hole-sawn piece of 1x would replace the store-bought, white molded product.

Then add some rubber or vinyl grommets of the appropriate bore diameter/cedar thickness to line the holes in DD's design....

Link

Finding an adhesive that will bond to fiberglass and nylon, delrin, uhmw could be tough. If you are not too attached to the carpet liner, you could remove all or part of it and glass in a metal base to hold the screws. Simple rectangluar tubing would not have to be more than 1/2 x 1 inch thick and you could cut two long pieces or four short.

Otherwise a truck vault $$$$$ or a simple false bottom in the bed would allow invisible rod storage.

I wouldn't even entertain the adhesive idea.

1. These racks are exposed to constant dynamic loading....bounce, bounce, etc. and would really test your adhesive of choice.
Mechanical fasteners rule for this app.

2. The new, deluxe canopies are very expensive and who wants to go hacking into that nice headliner that you paid dearly for, just to get to a gluing surface that may or may not work.

DD has a point, Dave.

I can send you some adhesive that would glue that white rack to the carpet/liner, and the carpet would leave the canopy shell before the rack would come unstuck from the carpet/liner..................but that could be a problem in that you're never going to be able to "unglue" it.

Thanks for all the input. I think I'm gonna go with the cedar 1X3 with the plastic rack screwed to it. I think I can do a tight fit force with the 1X3 so it will stay put. If not, i will get some of the glue Dan recommends.

Take your time with the chopsaw, and keep nipping until you get just the tightness that you want.
Put a bend in the 1x as you move it into place and then compression will take over when you let go.
Put the pre-drilled-to-the-cedar, plastic rack on the 1x after the 1x is in place.

Good luck.
Take pics.

Edit:
If you have metal framed windows it may be possible to use a piece of light aluminum angle (hardware store) that borrows some existing frame screws to join the 1x to the frame. It could be made tidy and would positively secure the 1x if compression didn't work.

In our Suburban
Cargo brace made for pick-up bed, cheap n easy...

That looks pretty damn nice Rog !

Holds 11 rod, 10'6" rods tap on the front windshield, other than that it's overhead n outta the way

That's the name of the game.
Up and outa the way.
Outa sight as well.

Nicely done.