Sighting in a scope.

My son decided to have some work done on his gun. After he got it back we went to the range to sight it in, He brought limited amount of ammo 20 rnds. We could not even come close to getting on paper. We were shooting at 100 yrds. We are going back on Wednesday. I was thinking of getting a laser bore sighter to do some adjustments prior to going to the range. Any one have any suggestions. Thanks JP

Start closer, like 25 yards, and a large target. That's how I do it when I mount a scope or other optic for the first time.

Super steady rest, prefer a vise type rest so no movement. Lock in place, open bolt and eye down the barrel to the bullseye, adjust the scope to match where the barrel is directed. Fire one round and without moving the gun, adjust the scope to the hole in the target.
Done!

Some folks lack a vise type of rest, but using my 25 yard method I can usually get the rifle sighted in about 3-5 rounds, and adjust with 2 or three rounds at 100 yards.

Perhaps the Boy Scout motto applies?

Consider playing with JBM *before* you go to the range. Adjust for temperature/elevation at your local range and then adjust to alpine deer/elk at 5,000 feet elevation and 20F to see what's what. Also, try a 100 yard zero and compare to a 250 yard zero. Unless you are shooting a round that has the trajectory of a mortar, use a 250 yard zero set for your local range. BC and MV data are available from most manufacturers on their web site. The program will give you how many inches you'll need to be high at your 100 yard outdoor range. Likely 2-3 inches high at 100 and the same amount low at 300. Now you can confidently take a poke at shoulder/lungs with POA = POI from 0 - 300 paces without adjusting for drop.....

Had to do as dogfish mentioned last season. Had a bore sight botching from hell. Done by Bobs. Started close and realized it needed bore sighted again and was good. I fired zero shots during the season so it was a real life saver.

laser bore sighter...

My quail motto. "If you don't shoot well - shoot lots"

Bore sight it at 25 yards to hit the paper. 1 round down.

Adjust your scope accordingly at 25 yards. 2 rounds down.

Fire a 3rd round with your adjusted scope and your 3rd boolit should be pretty damn close to dead on where you need it to be at 25 yds.

Consult your JBM ballistic chart and adjust your scope to whatever your sight in range is. Try 250 yards.

Boolit #4 just confirms your shot at 250.

Boolits 5-20 are just because you are at the range and it's damn fun to shoot that metal clanger at 200 yards and you need to burn up last year's hunting ammo

Boolits 21-550 are because you brought the M1 Garand, the M1A, the Ruger R516, and the AR-10 and felt like going all zombie mode at the range. Damn metal clanger really pisses me off.

I hate sighting in scopes. WAY too expensive for me.

laser bore sighter

All great tried and true suggestions so far but I'm curious to the "work" that was done to the rifle?

The gun needed to be reblued due to wear and tear . Now a question off topic. The boys had good success . They each got a buck .Now I need to clean the blood and guts off my gortex rain gear that I let them use. What is the best thing to use with out ruining the rain gear. Every time I have washed the stuff in the past it was ruined and no longer as water proof as it was when new. Thanks JP

Nikwax waterproofing laundry soap, followed by the spray on Nikwax waterpoofing.

The soap will clean the GoreTex, and while the stuff is still wet you spray on the waterproofing spray, then throw it in the dryer. This will make your waterproof clothing brand new, I do it with all my raingear once per year.

Fish on...

Todd

What Todd said, with a few more details.

Getting your high end Goretex shell back into primo shape is a multi-step process starting with the cleaning, then the re-upping of the DWR (durable water repellant) finish on your garments exterior.

For the cleaning Nikwax makes a product called "Tech Wash" which is basically a Goretex friendly soap. You can get by with a mild commercial detergent but the problem with most of these is that they leave a residue on the fabric which can clog the porous Goretex material messing up the functionality of the waterproof-breathable membrane.

Once you have run your coat through the wash using the "Tech Wash" to clean it, use a product such as Nikwax's TX Direct (wash in or spray on) which restores the water repellant finish to your garments outermost layer.

Although there is really no harm in having the shell material on your coat "wet out" as long as your membrane is functioning, most of us get a warm fuzzy from seeing water bead up and run off as opposed to soak into the outside of our coat.

Gore's Revivex product is another option for the DWR coating. In each case, follow the directions on the label. All products should be available at your local outdoor store such as REI.

I just did the Tech Wash thing recently and was blown away at the amount of dirt that came off. I did the whole process in a 5 gallon bucket (a couple gallons of water, right amount of Tech Wash, soak, agitate, rinse, rinse, rinse).

I also opted to do a down jacket and down sleeping bag with a similar product designed for washing down. I can't believe the amount of loft I got back, particularly in the 10+ years dirty sleeping bag.

A very worthy investment.

The stuff literally makes your waterproof items act and feel brand new.

Fish on...

Todd

Yep.What Todd & ColeyG said. I do this once a year on all my stuff.Follow the directions.Good luck,
SZ