So, I've decided to buy a boat. I primarily intend to use the boat for fishing/crabbing (sound, lower snoho, maybe some lakes), but I've got a wife and two small kiddos too, so they'll want to tag along and do some tubing and whatnot sometimes too.

I'm looking in the 14-16 feet range for now (I know that when the kids get bigger, we may need a bigger boat). However, since I am a relatively inexperienced boater, I thought I'd seek advice from the great minds of PP.

So, any comments on pros/cons of the following:

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/boa/5101940717.html

http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/boa/5108571061.html

I realize they aren't exactly apples to apples.

Thanks for any advice!

in general I am an advocate of 18-20 foot boats for a family of 4. its what I have and i can remember the kids sleeping under the walk around portion of the deck. it was about 2 feet deep and 2 feet high at 5 ft long section of the cuddy cabin.
that said i would pick the aluminum for your needs if they are the two options. a new boater needs to be able to access the front of his boat. and thats's tricky with the Arima. not that it cant be done, just tricky. as you are learning you will go to fast to docks, or logs to tie off to and you will want to avoid collisions. as you get more experienced you will use the motor to get your self out of those situations. but in the beginning you will have an urge to run to the front.... and some tides and river flows and wind combinations will frustrate you to no end and you will just want the boat, any part of it, back to the dock.
have fun figuring it out. and do not rush the decision.

Good info from cncfish, so true about access to the bow, especially for a first-timer!

You are going to hear a ton of people recommend that a bigger boat is always better. In some cases yes, in others it just isn't so. Things like storage, the place you will use it most and ability to captain the boat all come into play when deciding how much boat to get. We ended up with a 16.5' fish/ski set-up that has been great.

We were in a similar situtiaon as you earlier this year. We made the call to get our first boat, have two little kids that will be with us almost always when we are on the water and wanted something that was "all-around" in nature. Here are the things we decided were not negotiable:

Aluminum hull: Neither of us have experience running a boat, aluminum is more forgiving when it comes to beaching and approaching the dock too fast

Deep-v hull: The wife and kids are with me almost always, a smoother, drier ride is paramount for us. We didn't/don't need a boat that will run small rivers and weren't getting a jet

Weight: The boat has to trailer-able and not just by a 3/4-ton diesel. I have a Tacoma and plan on running to EWa to fish the big rivers and reservoirs over there, a 2,000 lb hull just wasn't going to work. We also wanted to be nimble and be able to run to any of the local PS lakes to dump in the boat

Top: Some sort of canvas-system for keeping the kids out of the sun is a must. I am sure it will be nice for rain when I am out fishing, but we haven't experienced that yet, only used it for shade

Ability to pull skier/tube: We ended up with a fish/ski boat that has a spot for a ski pole, haven't used it yet, but is s pretty slick set-up

Of course there are a ton of other things to consider, but for us during the purchase of our first family craft, the above were the most important for us. Good luck on your search, you won't regret it once you pull the trigger.

Thanks for the tips. I'm having trouble finding info on the Harbercraft 148 Chinook. Apparently they were bought by Kingfisher. Anyone familiar with this model/brand?

Well when buying used your buying a hull attached to a motor and it is the motor that can and likely will bust your butt. So is a search to find the hull you need with a GOOD motor. If your financing banks will only go so far back in years regardless if the motor is much newer and that is where the best prices reside. A good older hull with a newer motor. Folks cannot finance them so the price is lower.

Deep Vee is best but in aluminum used can be hard to find because most are 14 degree dead rise ( stern ) or less. 14 degrees is OK but below that your ride will suffer. 18 or better is best and in used boats the Thunderjet Luxor are around more than other brands. It makes a difference as I have a TJ Lux 20 and my brothers is a Duckworth Navigator, both have 150 hp motors, and in a run across the bay in 12 in to 18 in chop the Duck cannot stay with me and it is 14 degree dead rise.

Your on the right track searching around. Oh, Kingfishers are good boats but they are best well above the size your looking for. The smaller KF are not any better than a dozen other brands out and about. http://www.kingfisherboats.com/

Lots of good info by Chuck S, Rivrguy, cncfish, Beancounter.

It truly depends on how you want to spend time on the water, and where you want to go. A 14-16 boat is perfect for plenty of folks, but it depends on what you want to do.

There is a horror story of a Harbercraft boat on bloody decks or aluminum alloy boats, can't remember which. Might take a look. Don't know anything else about them, other than couple people very unimpressed with welds.

Nothing under 16'.......nothing over 20' for the first boat. lots of good opinions up top.Good luck,

SZ

I second the quality motor vote. Not absolute way to predict it but just keep in mind a 115 is probably approaching $10,000 new.
Also, I'd get an aluminum boat 17-20' with a windshield and above all else, a motor with fewish hours that has been maintained. Anything that has spent lots of time in the salt I would stay away from unless someone takes unusually good care. Look for corrosion signs.

I have owned many boats, started with a 12' moved up to a 16, then a 14, a 24, and now a 20'. I will say this: I think your minimum requirement should be an 18' especially if you plan to go out in the sound. You lose SO MUCH freedom of movement and BEAM width (stability) from a 16' to an 18'. I cannot count the number of days we have been out in the sound and it went from glass calm to 2-3 foot chop, back to glass calm; this generally occurs due to tidal current direction and the wind. If its blowing 10-15 kts and is following the tide/current, it will stay very calm. The second that tide changes and the wind is blowing over top of the current, it will quickly set up a 1-2 foot or more wind chop. 16' and under boats are "safe" in most conditions on the sound, but not very comfortable, especially for youngsters and/or with a large crew on board. The difference between a 16 and an 18 is like night and day in a chop, as well as with the amount of fishing and people space you will have.

If it is feesible as far as your storage requirments and budget, I will really keep your eyes out for an 18 footer. They are small enough to handle by yourself on and off the trailer, but large enough to feel safe and comfortable in most conditions. The cost associated with going from a 16' to an 18' should be fairly negligible depending upon what type layout platform you choose to go with.

I really appreciate all the pointers. Thanks.

Any thoughts on spectrum boats or Force motors?

http://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/boa/5126184552.html

"may the force be with you, and not behind you!"

X10; and probably older than MPM!

Think minimum 16 feet with plenty of free board for use on the Sound plus a reliable main motor and small kicker (or, gasp, oars). You do not want to be broken down and adrift with no way to reach the nearest beach. Kids might think it an adventure; wife not so much...

And, of course, the budget????

Fishing partner had two Force outboards, a main and a trolling motor. They weren't reliable. I wouldn't pay above the boat value on a package with a Force engine.

Any thoughts/comments on these?

http://skagit.craigslist.org/boa/5130659332.html

http://bellingham.craigslist.org/boa/5126830594.html

http://skagit.craigslist.org/boa/5131026687.html

I'm trying to stay under $5000 or so, but could go up a bit for the right bells and whistles (bimini/canopy, downriggers, good seats/layout, etc.)

I was kind of leaning toward that Pro Tracer 162 until your post, Chuck.

I've actually got a little Honda 4 stroke I can use as a kicker, so I'm not as concerned about the lack of a kicker/trolling motor, although the price should reflect that.

I'm not sure I see the downside of buying a 16' boat for now, with the understanding that I'll probably want to sell and go bigger in a few years. I'm not sure if an extra 3-4 years of use on 10-30 year old boats/motors/etc. will affect the resale value so much that I'll be losing a lot.

The Starcraft would be great, and has a better price, but I'm more concerned as to the condition. Haven't seen it in person yet.

Well, after looking at the Tracer and the Starcraft in person, I'm no longer considering the Starcraft (although it might be a good buy for someone willing to put a few hours into cleaning it up), and seriously considering the Tracer.

MPM, you are getting some good advice here. If you are definitely getting a boat, there is nothing wrong with getting a 16'. Most importantly, you'll find out if you actually use the boat or not. If you do, you'll decide very quickly that you need/want something bigger. If you don't use it, and it hasn't broken down, then you can sell it and move on without much of a loss. Regardless of the boat, I think you just need to be aware of a couple of things. First, you are buying at the worst time of the year. Everything you're looking at would be $1000 cheaper if it wasn't July/August. Who wouldn't want a boat in this weather? Things feel different in the winter when the boat is taking up garage space or sitting outside getting rain and leaves on it all winter. Second, like any well used car, if the motor goes, so does the value and functionality of the boat. So, just be aware of what you'll do if the motor craps out. Fix it? Repower with new motor? Repower with used motor? Sell the boat without a motor? In any of these situations, the original math goes bad in a hurry. It is how lawn ornaments are born and marriages get ugly.

My advice would be to wait. Find something in late fall or winter that you can treat as a project (any boat you buy WILL be a project) that will be ready to go for next spring. Look at something like an Olympic or another classic NW boat with some form of canvas and windshield. Ideally, find a boat that comes with all the small stuff: safety equipment, downriggers, crab pots, etc. All that stuff adds up in a hurry. Also, make sure the trailer is in decent shape. Finally, make sure you have the time to not only use the boat but to maintain it once you get it. If it is something you are using in the salt, take 30 to 60 minutes after each trip to flush the motors and get the salt off of everything.

Good luck! My boat brings me a lot of pleasure and is one of the last things I'd want to give up but sure takes a ton of my time and money.

AP a.k.a. Kaiser D enjoying a new stocking hat on his boat.

None of the boats you have mentioned are Arima's
Imagine 4 on the Sea Kitten . It is a 15'11" Sea Chaser

Here is a 17' in Yakima, roughly double your $ but sounds nice and no salt. (If I sold mine I would have to say No Fresh )
https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/boa/5128787930.html

Check steering. Make sure cable is free. Or find something with hydraulic.

This is a copy of a post I made in 2008 on a similar thread. Seven years later and a new kicker motor I think it is still good advice unless you have money to burn.

"Lots of good advice in all of the posts but there is another approach to getting a good Puget Sound / lake fishing boat at a lot less cost. First you have to think of the purchase as three separate items, boat, motor, and trailer. For the kind of fishing you describe and your concerns the motor is the most important item because that is what you rely on to get you home fast when the weather turns bad. I think the trailer is also quite important if you travel any distance to launch because trailer problems can ruin a lot of trips. The boat is the least important item but does determine what size motor and trailer is needed. There are usually a good selection of old fiberglass boats for sale of all sizes and configurations, many times the motors are shot and the trailers are marginal so they are quite cheap. Often people want to get rid of them and will almost pay you to take them away. If it has a motor junk it and buy a new one. If the trailer works use it until you can afford a new one, it is easy to sell old trailers. Below is something I copied from a post I made on a similar thread from a few years ago.

"Back in 1980 when I was looking for a boat for Puget Sound I received some good advice from Puget Sound old timers. Any sturdy boat is OK, get a good trailer, and then spend more than you can afford get the best motor you can. Most motors will get you out fishing but if the weather changes you need a good motor to get you back fast or you can die. I don't recall all of the details but about 15 years ago at Port Angeles a surprise storm hit when several people were halibut fishing. I think 4 people and three boats didn't make it back. I talked to one person who was 2 miles west of Ediz Hook when he saw the storm coming from the west. He stopped fishing and headed for the harbor. By the time he rounded the hook the wind was 50 knots and he almost didn't make it to the ramp. I haven't encountered winds that strong but I have made more than my share of tense runs back to the ramp.

Finally, a tip, try to buy a used boat without a motor. Most of the time the motors are not in great shape and will require work. Boats without motors are in someone's way and they want to get rid of them fast. If you have the time identify the boat you want and then look for one with a junk motor and any kind of trailer. It should be cheap. New trailers are not so expensive, the cost of keeping a beater trailer fit for the road over ten years will probably be more than a new one. The boat I have today is the boat I bought in 1980, a 16-foot Pacific Mariner that was probably built in 1958. I am the third owner and yes the numbers are WN1A, supposedly the first boat registered when the Coast Guard begin registering boats in Washington. If you look aroud the ramps you will notice that people with the old fiberglass boats never use bumpers. The old hand layups are so strong that the only reason to use a bumper would be to protect the dock."

I am on the thrid trailer, thrid kicker, and third motor. The motor is a 60 hp 4 stroke Mercury that has been quite reliable. The kicker is a Yamaha 8 horse 4 stroke, a great motor, a 3 gallon tank of gas lasts for a week rather than days."

My first boat was a '78 19ft Olympic soft top, that after redoing the stringers/foam/transom, was planning on owning forever as it was a great boat(had it for 15 yrs). If you can't/don't want to do the work yourself, the bill can be staggering. Anyway, a 23ft Proline came my way with an offer I couldn't refuse, so had to sell the Olympic. I was asking $5500 or so with a healthy Yamaha 130 2 stroke/nice trailer, but ended up selling in October for $3800(as AP pointed out...it's the season). The boat was a sleek tank, and while I got wet a few times, never worried about making it home and I consider that hull to be somewhere in the top 10 best for our conditions. On the outboard hulls with the step down transom, the factory for some reason thought that putting an aluminum cap over the raw plywood transom was a good idea. If you see an Olympic that's still got the cap, you can assume theres at least some water in there, if not totally wet. A good sign is water weeping out of drain/transducer screws when boat is dry. We lived with ours being wet for years before the bowing with bigger motor made me nervous.
I've never been a fan of the hardtops as Olympic made them too short so you can't stand up on a bad day.....that said there's a solid 19ft Hardtop that was originally an inboard with that desireable full height transom/offshore bracket/05 Honda 130 4 stroke/etc in my neighborhood for $6000/obo and I see that in the motor/tandem trailer.
Sellers # is 360-853-6637. Good luck in your quest. Tom

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc268/blackmouth_photos/olyhardtop_zpszqdk5db4.jpg

I appreciate all the advice. I ended up buying a 1999 Smokercraft Spitfire 162 (16.5 ft) with a 85hp Yamaha and 4hp Evinrude kicker. I'll probably sell the kicker and use a 2hp 2013 Honda 4 stroke that I've already got.

Saw this one.

Congrats on the new toy. But I'll give you a little word of advice considering I just learned this lesson two years ago.

I purchased a 15ft Arima 3 years ago and at the Fisheries Swap Meet in Seattle I found a brand new 4 stroke 4 hp kicker. I thought that would be enough for a little boat like mine. But after actually taking it out on the water I found it was seriously underpowered.

I ended up getting a new Yamaha 8hp 4 stroke which I love and will never be on the water without. There's just too many things that could go wrong with your main and having those extra few ponies on the back of your boat will make the difference WHEN the time comes.

If I were you I wouldn't go anything less than 8hp. Hell, wait until the winter time/boat show and see if you can get a deal on a new 9.9 kicker. Or, do what I did and make your calls. I called a few places in OR and got a fair price for my kicker. Saved a few hundred dollars on tax as well since we were already going to Portland for a weekend trip.

Well, I certainly won't sell the 4hp Evinrude until I've at least tried out the 2hp Honda to see how it moves the boat. I'm hopeful since it's a pretty light boat.