As far as table fare goes. Summer runs will stay in great shape from the time they enter the river to late fall before they start converting stored fats and energy into producing "spawning goods" (usually late OCT/NOV on the west side)

Far as winters go. The hens can trick you if they have been in for a while. They will stil be "bright" but the meat will turn very fast because of heavy egg production. The males on the other hand can stil be good to eat, even with the red war paint on. One of the best eating fish i have ever ate was a mid february buck that had quite a bit of color... If they have black bellies they should definetly go back.

For me my favorite time of day to hit steel is about 15-30 min after first light all the way to an hour before total darkness. Ive never had great luck on winter runs at dusk, i think it has something to do with them anticipating moving up river agian under darkness???
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"I have a fair idea of what to expect from the river, and usually, because I fish it that way, the river gives me approximately what I expect of it. But sooner or later something always comes up to change the set of my ways..."
- Roderick Haig-Brown