Shep, take it from a guy that does a ton of float fishing. It is deadly on all different kinds of water. You also want to expierement with different jigs and the sort under your float on different rivers. While "Fish Doctor Jigs" work great at Blue Creek other brands work different on different waters. I am the inventor of "John's Jigs" a company I sold only 3 years ago, and for many including myself they are absolutely deadly jigs on such rivers as the Sky, Sno., Sauk, and Stilly. You can find them in most Seattle area tackle shops. "Teds Sport Center" in Lynwood is your best bet being they carry the entire line-up. Vedder is a close friend and I strongly recommend both of his books, "Jig Fishing For Steelhead" and "Float Fishing For Steelhead". Dave and I both fish the Canadian style dink floats with a in line slinky heavy enough to just keep the top 1 inch of the float showing in big water. In smaller water such as Blue Creek and smaller slow running creeks try a small "Thill" style float and split shot. A few hints on float fishing, even for those guys that like the sliding set-ups with bobber stoppers. One key trick to remember with floats is to use a level wind or center-pin reel,; why, Because you can effectively control your drift. You do NOT just want to free spool line out letting the float travel at the same speed as the current. Two reasons for this; one, the top current layer is always traveling faster than the bottom layers where the fish lie. Two, if your float is traveling at the same speed as the current both your jig and weight system are coming at the fish at the same time, and not the hook of the jig either but the jig head. If you have your float tilted slightly up river putting slight pressure on your reel as you let line out not only is the jig coming at the fish first but its also coming at the fish hook first. As for the sliding set-ups with bobber stops I don't use them. Why, because if you try to hold it back even just a little your float is going to slide down your line bringing your presentation up out of the holding areas. Also with a fixed float you can effectively fish a tale-out, thumbing your spool and dragging accross the entire tail-out. One last thing, buy a float rod if your serious about getting into it, Vedder has designed such a rod for "Lamiglass" it's a 10'6" rod. Long enough to keep your line off the water as you control your drift, and it has enough back-bone to burry the hook on a hook set. My honest opinion, float fishing is the second most deadly technique there is for steelhead and salmon. #1? side drifting out of a sled or drift boat. you cover more water and your presentation is always in the prime holding water or traveling lane. This is why float fishing is so deadly, especially for bank anglers; your float ,unlike drift-fishing, is always in the prime water not making an ark only covering the prime water for a brief time. Any more questions, E-Mail me I'd be happy to help out.