I have a dilly trailer for my 14 aluminium boat I never use it in freshwater hardly and today I noticed it was startin to rust around the edges so I'm gonna sand all the rust off . what would be a good paint to paint the trailer. its not a galvi. because I'm fairly young and this boat trailer has got to last a few more years. its in excellent shape besides the surface rust. Ben

You might consider looking into getting some of the cold-galvanizing paint. With proper prep work, it should last and protect for quite a while. This is what I was told by one of the trailer manufacturers. I have no clue on cost vs. regular old paint.

Saltine thanks for the input. now I have somewere to start any how. Ben

I would prep the traler with a product like Ospho. It is a rust inhibiting product that attacks all existing rust and forms a good primer base for top coat. Then I would paint it with a good quality paint.

Here's what I did to my very old and rusty drift boat trailer, 12 years old and a lot of gravel miles. I took it to a place in my home town and had it sand blasted and then they sprayed on a zinc metalizing that does not rust from the outside. This is the third trailer that I have done it to.
It looks brand new and really not that expensive.
I also put on a dual roller bunk (see picture)because I was having trouble in off loading the boat because of shoulder problems. Now I can roll boat off on a flat surface with just one hand. The best I have ever used. I also had the UHMW bearings made and put metal pipe inside the plastic pipe with a 5/8" stainless shaft. Very easy job but you must have it welded. I have all the extra parts to to this to any drift boat trailer.
The trailer still might rust from the inside out. And the rollers might wear on the bottom of my aluminum drift boat but it is what I had to do.
fp

thanks for the information give me something to do in between blackmouth seasons . Ben

Hey Rockfish,

I know there is a place in Ballard that will dip-galvanize your whole trailer if you want. They do large items, I think a driftboat trailer would be on the small side for them. I don't recall their name, if you can't find it, email me and I'll ask around.

If you're still wanting to do the paint thing, use a good compressor and sprayer like an autobody shop would use, but try a paint like Imron (Dupont) it's really tough and durable. A good autobody shop or autoparts store should be able to point you in the right direction.


-N.

fp, I would be very interesed in those trailer parts. How can I get a look at them? I have a home made trailer that has a poor design of a craddle for my boat to rest on. I like the way you have yours set up.

Maguana, I see that we are in the same town. I will email you with an address. fp

Awesome idea for the second roller. I too would be interested in the parts. Could you elaborate a little more on the rollers and UHMW. Is there an UHMW tube over the steel roller?

Kyle_A, Heres the picture of the parts I used to make my rollers. UHMW bearing, metal mounting brackets and 5/8" shaft. The plastic pipe I used was schedual 80 electrical conduit and metal tubing to fit inside of the schedual 80 pipe. I run a 17' Willie drift boat on it and seems to work excellent.

Then I had them welded together to make a very nice roller system on the trailer. fp

RockFish, which ever way you go I agree, STRIP IT! Whether you sand it all down,{time consuming} or you use a good paint striper {Alcohol base is best} take it down to the bare metal first then use OSPHO {phosphoric acid} this will kill any surface rust. Now you have a good starting point to go whichever way you decide. If you are considering painting, EMRON is an awesome paint{aircraft paint, about $100.00 a gal}, but needs to be applied by someone with a fresh air supply as it will kill you. HammerRight would be my next step down. I painted a 1960 boat trailer{my sled's} about 4 years ago with it and no rust yet. Next step down would be Rustoleum with Rust Protection. Prime the metal first with either of their primers, in a shop, ect. aleast 65 degrees. Warmer means faster drying and recoat times. Read the labels well for recoat times, too long and it will wrinkle on your next coat and you'll get to start all over. I learned the hard way on recoating. Oh yes, stay away from Latex paints, as they are not very durable. I hope this helps. G-MAN

[ 01-02-2002: Message edited by: G-MAN ]

Looks like a pretty good set up fp, I'l take a set. I think I'm going to get some small diameter nylon cord and oar wrap the schedual 80 pipe to make it easerier on my glass and it will be a top notch set-up.

I've used rust inhibiting products like Young Salt posted about and they are pretty amazing. One of them I used, maybe the same one, almost turned the remaining rust, after the sanding, into metal again. Then I used gloss enamel Rustoleum paint over that. It's a fairly easy and long term solution. Not as nice looking or durable as the more expensive zinc re-paint process of that white trailer though. ... I hate rust!