I'll happily field anything,you may wish decerned.

If you wish it decerned twice,I can do that.

What are the optimum components to build a .223 Ackley improved?

What's the role?

Blacktail deer rifle.

Anything twisted 1-14" or faster and 20" or better in length,will wreak havoc.

The 53TSX will yield 3500fps,trajectories are modest,impact energy and impact velocity...well beyond "adequate".

If you've a Remmie,thought should be cast towards faster twisted aspirations,because the latitude opens windows of opportunity. Mag confines can be juggled,to allow the 62TSX a 3400fps initial launch and with that comes more residual juice.

Have killed many via 53,but the 62 is new enough,that I've only shot it on paper.

That being said,I do not fret the 62's employment,as I decern it very capable.

7mm mag for elk

Amongst others,equally as capable.

Wow - sounds like you know your stuff!

I've got a custom 30-06 built on a large ring K-98 mauser action.

I read some articles online about using 30-06 loads tipped with 165 or 168 gr Barnes TSX for BOTH mulies and elk...

Right now I use two separate factory rounds for each season (your standard 150gr deer, 180gr partition elk), but 1 for all would be nice.

Thoughts on the 165gr for elk?? Factory (Fed Prem.) or handload?

Yes,
HD knows how to put together a blackie smokin unit.
No doubt about it!
Sal

Bullet weight,is a misnomer in this day and age as focal evaluatory criteria,same goes focus on meaningless designators,such as Sectional Density(SD).

Bang for the buck,the 165/8's in .308" bores,is a very sound answer to any situation,but many Wive's Tales remain and often folks are entranced with the designators that bear the least amount of fruit. Dumb ideas,die hard.

The 168TSX is without peer and I like that the 168A-Max(Hornady) dupes it's BC,so one can interchange through the course of the year,less major sight setting concerns. Typically,in a sound rifle,they will print on top of each other,when launched at like speeds.

I find much to get excited about,when my practice/play loads are in synch with the load I use to fill tags. I shoot those two projectiles in harmony,from most everything from 308Win to 30-8mmRemmag (a Wildcat,that is essentially a stretched 300Wby or 7STW necked up).

You will not be able to keep the 168TSX inside an Elk,at any angle,from most any distance(they'll get you to the 1000yd line,nicely).

Same goes Mulies.

You'll find that the familiarity of the 2 projectiles,will essentially mean that you are shooting a single load for everything and in that approach,everything becomes a little sweeter.

The harmonious melding of an X,with a like BC practice/play bullet,is something I strive for in every rifle I shoot,from 223AI right up the line to the Boomers.

It never don't work.

Hog Daddy I have 2 questions

1. I have an remington model 788 in .308. There is some rust pits in the barrell. New barrell job cost more than it is worth. Really enjoy the accuracy of this rifle. What would you do?

2. I have a single shot 45-70 govt. and I want to make some hanloads for it. I dont want the flat nose or round nose bullets that are common because of lever action safety. It is a modern chamber and I can exceed the pressures over what is recomended for black powder cartriges. Have you seen any pointed boat tail bullets in .457"? If so do you have any loading info for loads slighly over black powder cartridge pressures. I dont want to test the steel, I just want to be a little faster and more aerodynamic than the factory loads that are universal to old and new firearms.

1) I've a few 788's,they are fair to middlin'. They typically shoot very well,but what Remington doesn't?

The rear locking bolt lugs,are a concession,for high round count forays. They can also be hard on brass,due to some flex.

Weighing what a new barrel costs,I'd cut my losses,let it go for whatever I could get out of it and then upgrade(twin locking lug Remmie),less ever looking back.

2) The .458" bore is a niche that though very well supported in projectile selection,it doesn't have any high BC Mojo going on for it.

The 500gr X has a BC of .526 and that is the widest window of opportunity,that I'm privvy too(.375's is the upper echelon of my interests).

If you wished to cast your own,you could spec a mould of your own design and go that route.

Thanks for the info on the TSX....good stuff! Next is a muzzleloader question:

Best projectile for SW Wash elk? (.54 T/C System 1) ...prefer sabots for accuracy, but selection is limited with the 'all-lead' rule in Wa. Older ML, so max charge is 100gr.

...thoughts?

I am not Hog Daddy, but I know him personly, and have learned much about rifles from him. I will give you what I know since he isn't allowed to post on this board any more.

Barnes CR-10 is very good at removing copper. I had an electronic cleaner thing for a while, but they are a pain in the a$$.

Reloader 15 works real good in .243, and a lot of other cartridges too !

Barnes TripleShock bullets work real good on game...they will penetrate, they will expand, and they will not come apart, the Noslers you mentioned can't say that with reliability.

I have shot several of Hog Daddy's rifles, and from that I can say that I agree with him about which stock shape I like, though I don't own one myself yet, it is the Remington Classic made by McMillan. You can get the Classic any way you want it, left hand is no problem, you can specify length, weight, color, options, etc. McMillan's has a website, and you may even find a stock available on their web special section ( cheaper and faster, but not custom to your wishes), otherwise be ready to wait a month or two for your stock, but they are by far the best stock in most peoples mind.

I hope that helps...anybody going by "hooktender" can't be too bad of a guy...........

P.S., those left handed Model 700's are junk, how much do you want for it ?

You say fond of the caliber, me to, but why not change the cartridge to .223 Ackley ? You could have the same barrel re-chambered and gain some speed, and maybe accuracy as well, (new chamber probably better than factory)...

Either way I think H335 powder is going to be hard to beat.

I would definately use Hornady V-Max bullets, 50 grain, or maybe 40 grain if shots mostly close. These are very accurate, and basicly vaporize small critters...you won't be disapointed.

I think I get 50 grainers to over 3800 fps in my 23" 223 Ackley barrel. I used a number 3 contour Douglas barrel, and a McMillan Mtn Rifle stock, I wish I had used a Classic, and intend to change that out when my priority list allows.


P.S. those .222's are junk too, how much do you want for it ?

Forgot about the primer question.

I haven't used benchrest primers, but have made some very accurate ammo with plain old CCI primers, I think you would have to get way down the super accuracy trail before there would be any chance to realize any benefit from the yucky-muck primers. Some primers are made of tougher metal though, in other words you can get away with running hotter loads without piercing, or cratering them. I don't know which primers are best, but I would take CCI first and Winchester last.

Hopefully someone with more experience will chime in...

I have used v-max and nosler balstic tips on rock chucks and grey diggers. I liked them both but I have never seen VAPORIZATION like the time I loaded 110 grain hollow point Speers on .30-06 brass. Got them screaming well over 3200 with GOBS of energy. SPLAT!!!!


Have you come across a good synthetic thumb hole stock for ruger MKII LA. Seen a couple of wood ones but I didn't want it. Would like one like my Win mod 70 varmit but in thumb hole fashion.

I would check with McMillan for a thunbhole stock, if that didn't work I would go with a laminate...

Thanx. I'll chect it out.

There is a Model 700 trigger article online somewhere, I will try to find a link for you, the factory setting is never good enough ! Back in the day Remington owner manuals included trigger adjustment instructions, these days they have a very heavy spring which should be changed out(easy peasy), then you can adjust your own trigger down to 2 lbs, and get rid of the creep, and over travel. After a little massage, your Remington factory triggers can be quite good.


I don't think you need to do anything to a new barrel other than clean it before you start shooting, and clean it whenever it quits shooting accurate groups. I assume you have blued barrels, not stainless, if that is right, then keeping the bore from rusting will be as much of a chore as keeping it clean.

If your rifle is in a factory black plastic stock, then I would replace it.

If your rifle is in a wood stock, then glass bedding it would be the first thing I would do, after adjusting the trigger, then I would install a Leupold scope...then shoot it.

If you run into problems, I will refer you to the guy formerly known as Hog Daddy...

Here is the link to a good article, in fact it should be included with every new model 700....

http://www.snipercountry.com/Articles/RemingtonTriggers.asp


You can only get a certain amount of gain with the factory spring in the trigger, (if the rifle is old then the spring is probably good), but for the last SEVERAL (?) years the trigger springs have been so heavy that you just can't set them very light without encountering safety issues. Midway sells a pack of bulk spring material, Kit No. 69, part #025-069-000, they are 12" long, just cut a piece the same length as the factory spring, make sure the ends are bent in so they don't get into the threads and foul the screw. Use the smallest size spring in the kit, there are two pieces of each size, so one kit is a lifetime supply for you and all your friends, (you will have more friends than you think after they try your trigger)........
An RCBS trigger pull scale is a usefull tool in evaluating your progress, you should at least try your trigger set at 2 lbs, then if it is too light you can set it higher.
Whatever you do, don't by a fancy aftermarket trigger like a Rifle Basix, or Jewell............................you could get addicted.

I just looked at the article again for the first time in a long time, probably should specify, you want to change the trigger weight spring, which is accomplished by removing the trigger weight screw. Actually I recommend taking both the weight screw and the stop screw out, this will let you remove the disconnector (the part that allows the trigger to NOT snap back further as the trigger is tripped), and look at how and why your trigger works...

Oregonian, you did an admirable job!

hooktender, our group here runs the 243AI and I dig it...but I don't have one yet, nor do I know the optimal twist rate. When I get back to town, I'll ask and pass on whatever info they give.

Thanks Brother Dave, how's the knee ?

I am hesitant to speak on matters that I have learned through other people rather than done myself, but I have heard Hog Daddy comment on the .243 Winchester being a better case design than the 6mm Remington, whether they are Ackley Improved or not...

I think building a .243 Ackley that is heavy enough to watch the bullet impact, yet light enough to call light may be a problem...choosing the right scope would certainly help though. I have a 6x42 Leupold on a Remington Ti .260, it has more room for error as far as eye placement than any other scope I have tried, I think that helps get back on target quickly...

I agree, but I'll ask Ramhumper about the one he bought from The Pimp. It's a sweet 243AI, and I was hooked on it the minute I shot it. If I recall correctly, it does wear a 6x42. It's his Oakie rifle, but I'm clueless as to what that name means....

I've heard HogDaddy trumpet the 243AI over the 6 many times....

I don't know how much reamers cost, but I'm sure there are a lot of gunsmiths out there with them in hand already...

I think I've seen .243 Improved on Pac-Nor's list.

I have a 6.5mm Swede in good condition, all #'s matching and 100% complete except the cleaning kit.

Is it worth sacrificing to turn it into a hunting rifle?

I would look for a used Remington Model 700, preferably with a dented up stock and some rust on the barrel. Every once in a while I find a Model 700 for under $300, but I would pay more than $300 if I was in heat. I don't know what your Swede is, but it would probably get you close to the Remington, if not there.

The 6.5mm Swede is essentially a 8mm Mauser that has been necked down to 6.5mm much the same as the 30-06 was necked down to .270--a favorite among deer hunters because of its flatter trajectory.

What are your plans as to how the rifle will balance ?

I have some nose heavy rifles, and now consider getting the balance point right to be of utmost importance..............

Heavy barrel needs heavy stock, long barrels need heavier stock than short barrels, basic I know, but getting it wrong leaves an impression.

I think ot is pretty well believed that a rifle should balance near the front screw or recoil lug, or between them....some personal preference in this area for sure. Best thing is to play around with several rifles paying attention to how handy they feel...

I have found that the stocks on factory rifles are about an inch too short for me, and it is easy to get more barrel length than you need. A 20-22 inch barrel on a fairly light rifle is much easier to work with than a medium weight rifle with a 24" barrel...and that is assuming they both balance right, make the long one nose heavy, and it turns into junk in a side by side comparison...too bad more people don't take the time to find out what they like with an open mind.

It sounds like you are on the never ending quest for the perfect rifle, welcome to the fun.

I think the Classic and a #4 has great potential, did you specify a weight on the stock ?

Are you going with the .243 Ackley ?

Do you know how to get ahold of Hog Daddy ?

What did the 'smith say about seeing the impact from a .243 Ackley out of a medium-light rifle ?

I would have to defer you to Hog Daddy for more detailed info on the specifics of a new rifle, he is several years and many thousands of dollars ahead of me. I do think a #4 can be accomodated nicely in a Classic, and you can tailor the barrel length to the weight of the stock if it is a given, or you can specify the fill weight within certain limitations....I think they make "light", "standard", "heavy", and "sniper" , I am probably not exactly right, but that is a general idea of the options McMillan offers. What bottom/ magazine you plan to use as well as optics also factors into the overall balance thing obviously.

I see that you already have at least one custom rifle, you probably know more about this stuff than me, I do like to talk about it though eh.....................<grin>

I see Hog Daddy discussing 3500fps with 85gr X's, from the 243AI, though I don't know the twist rate....

Too funny......