Taking this on for the first time. Looks fairly straight forward.

I ripped up some cheesy tile we did not like and to make it easier I took the subfloor 1/2 inch particle board with it. I failed to ck if there was a gap on the perimeter of the subfloor.

When I go to replace the 1/2 inch sub floor for my laminate should I have a 1/4 ish gap or should I go right to the wall? I know with the laminate this is required for expansion.

Thanks

take it to the wall , within reason.

You are going to screw the subfloor down with lots and lots of screws, so it won't be able to expand that much. The laminate is "floating" so it can move a lot easier. IMO it doesn't matter either way regarding the subfloor.

Get the heaviest laminate foam underlayment they make, you will notice the difference when you walk on it.

and don't use in "wet" areas

take it to the wall , within reason.---Copy that chasbo

RR--you do suggest screw down the subfloor? good to know I was sold "ribbed" nails. (man screw and ribbed wth am I talking about)

I will return the nails for screws. I will also make sure I get the more betta underlayment

Thanks guys

You can apply your subfloor with a coil nailer shooting 2.25" ring shanks. Doesn't take long doing that. Rent/borrow a gun and you can be done in a few hours if it is for a single room, depending on how quick of a carpenter you are. 6" spacing in the field, 4" spacing on the edges. Wear earplugs, as you are inside.

Subfloor goes to the edge. Laminate needs a gap of 1/8" - 1/4". More of a gap than that and you'll have issues with your floor molding covering the gap.

I believe what he was talking about was the foam that goes over the underlayment, between the uderlayment and the laminate. There is basic foam, then more of a dense foam, and then felt.

You can pound ring shanks, or use screws, or air nail ringshanks. All based on availability of tools and the time you have available. I use what is quickest, air nailer for me.

Prolly easiest for the do-it-yourselfer to screw down the particle board. 4 and 8* is way plenty. Try to run the screws into structure (read joists) and either run perpendicular or offset the particle board in relation to the existing floor sheathing. IOW, avoid lining up joints from one system to another.
The above is about fighting squeaks, in fact go on a squeak hunt before you flop down the particle board.

Follow the manufacturer's recommendations on the flooring install.

* Fastener schedule:
(approx) 4" on the perimeter (ea sheet) and 8" in the field of (ea sheet) of particle board.

A lot of the laminate flooring now comes with foam backing already on it much easier to use .Cut it up side down your saw blade will last longer.

seems to be lots of carpenters out of work

Get the laminate with foam backing already on it it's easier, you'll pay more but Pergo looks better than Kirkland. I only left about 1/8" around the perimeter and it worked out fine.

Andy is right, ring shank nails or screws. Either is fine. I just figured you had bought screws

Going on 'sqeak hunt' (nice terminology) is also important before you lay your subfloor.

Keep in mind that Pergo and all laminate flooring is just thin laminate on particle board. It is junk. Water and all those nice seams are going to cup and swell in just a few years time. Not trying to burst you bubble with pergo, but why on earth would anyone want to put particle board and thin laminate in small pieces on a walking surface. once you dent it or penetrate the surface of the laminate, its a mess.

I've done high end woodworking for 25 years and I would never consider using that product, even on an apartment. It just won't hold up.

I agree that there are better products out there but my floors have held up fine for 6 years with a family of 5 plus pets. If you stay on top of spills and are not a complete slob you can keep the stuff in reasonably good condition.

Its called wiping your feet and cleaning up after yourself.

I don't expect laminate flooring to replace hardwood. We used hardwood upstairs, but I'm planning on using the laminate flooring in my basement, excepting the laundary room and bathroom. Since the laminate is basically like formica, which holds up to tons of abuse, it should be plenty durable so long as the basement doesn't flood. With the snap-together type of laminate material, it's a DIY project, and I found I can do my whole basement cheaper than carpeting it, which I'm not sure I'd want anyway.

Sg

AuntyM,

I'm not going to be living in the basement. It's just there because I built on a hillside, and it seemed like the right thing to do; plus it should be good for resale with the extra bedrooms, bath, big family or rec. room, etc. The basement has radiant heat in the concrete floor, so it's warm. Just need something to cover it up.

I have oak flooring on the main floor. It has a good feel. I should try and post some more recent pictures.

Sg

I'd be concerned about moisture in the concrete basement floor. You'll need a vapor barrier.

We did Pergo in our old house, the click type, and within 6 months the edges were bulging as Kevin stated. Pergo paid me to replace the floor, which I did with the glue and strap Pergo. That is better than the click stuff.

Plywood composite or solid wood would be better.

Andy,

Solid hardwood on the basement floor is a no-no, not that I want it there anyway. What they call engineered hardwood flooring, 1/4" hardwood glued to 3/8" or 1/2" plywood backing is supposed to be OK, but I don't want to put any wood on the concrete. Any flooring with much insulating value would undermine the effect my radiant heating system. I could just lay vinyl flooring all over the basement, but I thought the pergo imatator looks nicer and would provide some footfall cushioning. Hadn't thought about it being noisy tho.

Sg

I put in about 1000 suare feet of Dupont Elite laminate flooring in a walnut pattern about 3 years ago. Kitchen, family room and entry way. No problems with this material and it is grandkid proof. I had about 20 people over for my wife's birthday last weekend and the place was rocking for about 4 - 5 hours. When my wife cleaned up the floor the next day it looked brand new. She used a warm water and vinegar solution. Amazing stuff. My son had his hardword floors refinished at about the same time as I installed this floor. His floors are close to be needing another refinish job. I used a 1/4" gap between the walls and flooring. I also left a 1/8" gap between the bottom of the moulding and top of the floor. The floor needs to move so be sure to leave these gaps.

I have a width and length schedule for this flooring if you need it. I can scan it and e-mail it to you. Let me know. The material is 11 7/16" x 46 9/16".

Have fun!

Captain

Thank you Captian.

For the reason of ease of install, budget along with carpeting the majority of the house and maintenance free was why I went with Laminate. Oh and easy to cleanup. We now have carpeting under our dining room table--What the?? Bad idea. Will now be laminate.

I understand wood has its qualities, but I am fine with not having to re-stain. My parents home has had Pergo for 17 years and they are very happy.

Captian I will PM you my email. Thanks

I have the commercial grade, glue together pergo in 1/3 of my house and it has held up fine for 7 years so far with heavy traffic and a couple of large dogs that like to do the "Scooby Do" take offs on it . . . . . The stuff seams to be pretty bullet proof. .

I have also installed several "engineered wood" floors in clients houses over the years and while they look a bit better being "real wood" they have not held up nearly as well (mostly just sctatches from daily use, no catastrophic failures). Some better than others, you do get what you pay for.
Bamboo seems to be one of the most durable.

With Bamboo a 1/4" at the walls might not be enough for movement.

Sort of on the same topic. I re-finished two old wood floors a couple of weekends ago (I had no idea how to do it when I started). One is standard red oak (about 70 years old), the other is 105 year old t&g fir.

Everyone that comes in, is like "Wow these floors are great!". But I was on my hands and knees for about 36 hours and I know where all the defects, gouges, drum sander pockets, and every other screw up is, and I don't like the floors that much. Way too 'rustic' for me.

RR,

You'll like 'em better as time goes by and the memory of those 36 hours fades.

Sg

It took a week for my knees and ankles to forget.

rocket red i thought you were putting in rugs last night

Yep. I know 3-4 guys offhand that used to charge $60/hr doing whatever you ask for $25-30/hr.

Wednesday night I was pulling out all the old nails and staples so the carpet guy could come in Thursday and Friday. I should have new carpet when I get home from work today.

Cool! Nice to hear you are getting your flooring done. How long until you guys move in?

Shwweeeet.

Tentatively, looks like 2nd weekend in March we are going to make the move.

rr the town could be empty the second weekend in march. everyone should be in Yakima for state. wait one weekend and i could haul stuff for you.

Stage one done. Tiled the washer/dryer room in the Front entry and laminate in entry and hallway.

Now stage 2. I have a question--in the kitchen is now linolium (sp) under is a 1/2 subfloor particle board. Can I put the underlayment on top of the linolium then put the laminate on that?? Looking to not pull the sub floor out and replace with same.

Thanks
Coho

I'm assuming the 1/2" subfloor in the kitchen is in good shape. The beauty of laminate is that you can go right over the linoleum.

Remove the baseboards, cut out any bad linoleum and float the bad spots with thin set or floor patch. Lay the laminate flooring over the top of the linoleum and reinstall the baseboards with an 1/8" gap between the laminate flooring and baseboards. I would seal the gap between the baseboard and laminate flooring around the kitchen with clear caulking in case something leaks. Water is not the laminate flooring's friend.

If the linoleum is in good shape you are ready to go. It will be good waterproofing for the old subfloor!



Captain

First, make sure that you are prepared to properly deal with the transitions at doorways, thresholds etc. before you decide to double up the subfloor.
You're talking about a pretty good buildup.

Yeah, I know about that. We were going to head over too, but I would just be miserable knowing that I should be getting something done at home.

Coho: You should get a jamb saw, or something to cut the bottoms of the door trims and jambs so you can fit the built up flooring below it. Also, check the bottoms of your doors to make sure they won't snag on the raised floor, you may need to run them through a saw. I would use a fence and my Mag 77 to cut off the bottoms.

Thank you for the help.

Since the thought was to leave existing 1/2 inch subfloor with the linolium (Very thin cheap [censored]) the height added is minimal. I would add to it the underlayment and then the 1/4 inch laminate. So yes some adjustments.

Assuming your new flooring is a floating system and the existing tile is flush with the existing subfloor, there's no reason why you can't float over the tile, too.
The flatter your prep work is, the better your finished product will be. Check with the flooring mfr. on tolerances allowed and on what leveling products (if needed) they recommend.
There are cement-based and gypsum-based leveling compounds.
Stay away from Fix-All.


Yes, but again, check on allowable tolerances from the flooring mfr.


Without knowing what your new product thickness is, I would say to check with the mfr. to see what reducer profiles he offers.
If you're not good with their reducer offerings, and can't find a substitute elsewhere (fab yourself) then the tile would have to demo out and the subloor built up to the correct height for a nice "no bump" transition.

Chuck

I have installing these transition strips between floors. Laminate to carpet, Lam to Tile. Got them at Great Floors.

If you're using a wood reducer (or any reducer) it has to be anchored solidly. If not it will "rock" with foot traffic and degrade quickly.

Wood reducer:
With a new floating floor system the ideal situation is to anchor on the old side only. Then the new system can still float.
A good fastener for this is called a trim screw. They give you screw-like holding power with a nail-like penetration holes.
Drill pilot holes and use a quality adhesive on the fastener side only.

There is also a stainless steel trim screw available that is outstanding for doing trick, exterior deck and fascia work.
The new Battleground Community Center required 2x12 CVG fir fascia and these screws along with Gorilla waterproof glue made it happen.