Been helping a small company work on some worm colors and shape ... they have also been able to pour these with a small hole that with a little lube on the line (saliva, whatever) allows you to simply thread the line and not have to use a threader at all.

Haven't fished them much yet ... but just about time, I am very excited about the tying end of this ...

Question: would this help you choose this product over another brand???

Threading worms is murder on the hands.

That would be a BIG selling point if it works as touted.

I'd pay more for that.

Sounds like a great idea, but how much easier could it be than using a threader? My real concern would be durability and fishability. Will the pre-poured hole make it sloppy and will the worm slip? If they truly developed a product that you can (Easily) slide together on the river without a tool, they fish well, and they survive the continual punishment we can give it then YES. I think alot of us would see this as an advantage over other worms. Also the pricing would need to be similar to other products. Keep us informed as to how your testing is going.

Hey Bob I've been meaning to ask. Where can we order those checkered bikini models?

+1

So, to answer your question Bob, all things being equal, if these new worms present and fish as well as the current worms available and rigging time time is greatly reduced......sure I'd use them.

A couple questions....

-Would they still require the use of a bead between worm and hook?
not that it matters a whole lot, just curious.

-Would there be a good variety of colors or shades?

Curious to see how this pans out.

These worms are durable and they are floating, Brandon has worked really hard at finding a substance that will hold the colors he wants, float, have great durability and one that he can run a hole through the center. I've seen a few samples and he's still working with molds to get them just right, they move just as well as any other worm on the market and yes you would be wise to run a bead with them fishing line eventually will cut anything if not bumpered(is this even a word?). Oh and his colors, they are some of the best I have seen.

I'd hit it.

Threading isn't my favorite pastime


c/22

I'm with metaladdiction about if the plastic worm would slip and scrunch down on the leader after being fished, they main problem of any threaded plastic worm. The threaded plastic worm needs to adhere to the leader well to stop the plastic worm from scrunching on the leader. Hard stiff plastic worms scrunch less than soft limp plastic worms. That is why I do not use a bait threader to thread the plastic worm, it opens up too large of a hole for the leader to adhere to well.

What has worked then best for me to keep a threaded plastic worm from scrunching on the leader. Is to tie a small Uni knot with 1/16" tags with another piece of mono. on the leader and thread leader, Uni knot 3/4 of the way in to the plastic worm. The Uni knot on the leader, allows the plastic worm to adhere to the leader very well with very little scrunching down the leader. This works well with softer limp worms that scrunch easier. I would think the Uni knot threaded leader rigging might work very well with a pre holed plastic worm to keep it from scrunching.

I would definitely be interested in trying out a pre holed plastic worm, good idea.

Consider this....

The mechanism that keeps that worm straight and in place (friction of rubber on mono) is the same that allows the worm to stay scrunched.

Perhaps a "looser" pre-placed hole will eliminate the scrunch factor altogether?

Just need to peg the worm with a sequin and bead to keep it from sliding all the way back to the hook.

I'm guessing the entire worm isn't pre-threaded. Probably just the top 2" so the tail can wiggle... At least that's what I'd like to see....

Keith

Doc hit the nail on the head, a looser fit allows the worm to free float on the line eliminating schrunching as long as you don't have anything above the worm to push it down. I make a smaller version with 3" screwtails and tube fly piping with a pom pom glued on top. It's a pain in the ass to make them but it's one less leader roll to pack or untangle. Also if you have any leftover worms at the end of the season you don't have to dump them worrying about the leader breaking down before you get to use them again.

I don't use a threader and don't think it's too hard or takes that much time. I'd try the new worm, but what I'd really like to see is a scent chamber.

yes bob! a preholed worm would be a 1st. i have never really tried the PW only cause the threading aspect seemed a royal pain.

and to be honest, can't figure out why someone hasn't hasn't done this already. as soon as i see how this can be done. we here at RVRFSTR will be all over the copying...

You bet!

Fly guy's have tube fly's so why shouldn't gear guy's have tube worms, and if they float good and aren't hard as a rock...We'd buy !

Good point Doc.

The pre holed plastic worm being free sliding, would the plastic worm possibly scrunch while fishing in the main current. I guess it would depend how hard, stiff or soft, limp the pre holed plastic worm was, if it scrunched while fishing in the main current. I would think you would want a harder, stiffer pre holed plastic worm, so there is no scrunching of the plastic worm while even fishing in the main current. It should make threading the plastic worm easier also.

I don't prefer using sequins, but small 3mm/4mm beads if I have to. My biggest worry would be the bead and hook eye being forced in to the plastic worm leader enter point from the plastic worm being too free sliding.

With the Uni knot leader rigged plastic worm, no bead/sequin is needed because the plastic worm is adhered to the leader so well the plastic worm will not slide down the leader very easy. Only when you manually adjust the plastic worm will it slide on the leader. It allows the hook to be extended back from the leader enter point on the plastic worm a little bit if you want, aka "hang back method".

sounds good. Got any pics?

Ah yes... the uni-knot trick... conceptually the monofilament version of the barbed shank on old school bait hooks.

And yes a substantial hangback would be the objective.

I would imagine you would thread/slide the worm down the leader all the way to the hook, then tie in the uni(s) a couple inches above the head, trimming a bevelled stubble on the front end of the uni and trimming flush on the back end of the uni. Now just slide the worm back up to capture the uni(s), then slide ever so slightly back down to seat the "barbs".

Never done it that way, but just curious how often a single uni gets the job done. Seems like you might need more than one if the "pre-drilled" lumen in the worm fits a bit loose.

I will peg any corky, cheater, winner, dibbler with a folded piece of rubber band, using a piece of folded mono. for a threader, when fished a top any threaded plastic worm to keep scrunching to a minimum.

I have tried using plastic mini tubing threaded through the plastic worm to stop scrunching. It works, but the plastic worm swims more rigid than I would like to fish with.

One mono. Uni knot on the leader is all that is needed most of the time, but sometimes I'll use two if needed. Tie mono. Uni knot (with 1/16" tags/barbs left on both sides of the knot) on the leader before threading the plastic worm approximately where you want the Uni knot to sit inside the plastic worm, 2" - 4" above the hook, depending on the size of the plastic worm. The Uni knot is adjustable after tying it, adjust it where on the leader you want it to be before threading. Thread the Uni knot leader in to the plastic worm the way you always have, starting 1/4 to 1/3 from the bottom/tail of the plastic worm. I like using a long doll needle. After threading the Uni knot leader in to the plastic worm, the Uni knot on the leader should be about 1/8 - 1/4 of the way down from the top/head of the plastic worm.