#706157 - 09/25/11 02:59 AM
how to cut the stainless steel boom on my Scotty?
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Returning Adult
Registered: 12/05/02
Posts: 427
Loc: Gig Harbor,WA
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hey guys looking at upgrading my pulley on my 12 yr old electric downrigger. I bought the Scotty "Replacement Pulley kit" but it requires the tip of the boom to be cut off to insert the adapters,etc.
What out there can I use to cut the thick walled stainless steel tubing on the downrigger? Was thinking of a medium size pipe cutter but will it but a dent in SS?
Thanks again!
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Matthew 4:19
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#706159 - 09/25/11 07:06 AM
Re: how to cut the stainless steel boom on my Scotty?
[Re: Peter]
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Returning Adult
Registered: 12/24/07
Posts: 383
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Yes the pipe cutters should work. go slow and increase the tension on the pipe cutter only a little at a time to avoid denting the ss boom.
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#706160 - 09/25/11 09:05 AM
Re: how to cut the stainless steel boom on my Scotty?
[Re: mikey b]
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WINNER
Registered: 01/11/03
Posts: 10363
Loc: Olypen
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I haven't used the pipe cutters, but cut stainless periodically with abrasive disc cutters quite sucessfully. A trick shown to me years ago regarding cutting a tube (applies VERY WELL to large tubes) is to take a known squarely-cut sheet of paper (longer than the circumference of the tube) and wrap the tube with it with the edge of the paper on the proposed cut line. By lining up the paper edge as it is wrapped around the tube, the line it forms will be a perfect 90 degree cut-line.
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#706265 - 09/25/11 09:35 PM
Re: how to cut the stainless steel boom on my Scotty?
[Re: RogueFanatic]
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Returning Adult
Registered: 12/05/02
Posts: 427
Loc: Gig Harbor,WA
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Mine has the red tip insert and a roughly 1" x 1/4" SS small rod-tip coming out and looks like it also has a permanant non-removable rivet of some kind going into the side about 1/2" in from the edge.
Its solid and cannot be removed by anykind of visegrip,etc. Cannot put on a vise and cut with a hacksaw, unless I remove the entire boom from the downrigger,etc. I'm gonna call my plumber buddy to see if he has a heavy duty pipe cutter and go to town with that.
Edited by Peter (09/25/11 10:37 PM)
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Matthew 4:19
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#706292 - 09/26/11 12:07 AM
Re: how to cut the stainless steel boom on my Scotty?
[Re: ParaLeaks]
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River Nutrients
Registered: 08/26/02
Posts: 4681
Loc: Sequim
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Give Scotty a call and see what they recommend. They might have a simple solution.....
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#706329 - 09/26/11 11:56 AM
Re: how to cut the stainless steel boom on my Scotty?
[Re: bushbear]
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Repeat Spawner
Registered: 12/14/01
Posts: 1191
Loc: Everett WA
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mine was an older scotty and when I replaced the pully there was a black plug in the end of the boom, I used a big punch and just drove it into the boom. Can't remeber how it was secured, a little screw maybe? But I used vice grips to chew up the end then just pounded it in, figured it wouldn't hurt anything in there.
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#706515 - 09/26/11 11:10 PM
Re: how to cut the stainless steel boom on my Scotty?
[Re: baddawg]
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Bigtrout15
Unregistered
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Use a bandsaw or portaband. a pipe cutter will work to i use them at work and iv used them on rigid metal electrical conduit and they work. but yea they dull the blades and there not made for it but will work.
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#706525 - 09/26/11 11:39 PM
Re: how to cut the stainless steel boom on my Scotty?
[Re: ]
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River Nutrients
Registered: 12/30/07
Posts: 3116
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Stainless seems to change properties when it gets hot. Drill very slow and use a cutting oil often.
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#706558 - 09/27/11 02:51 AM
Re: how to cut the stainless steel boom on my Scotty?
[Re: bushbear]
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Spawner
Registered: 10/18/04
Posts: 502
Loc: Whatcom
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I cut s/s all the time ant typically use an abrasive cut-off wheel. Wrap a strip of paper as SH mentioned to get a straight line and go for it. The metal may turn blue on you a little, but you can clean it up. Just remember heat is the enemy.
S/S does not react well to heat and will burn up a drill bit in seconds if you go wyde clyde. I use a good sharp bit and "bump" (fast/slow, off/on senario) the drill while keeping good pressure on it. I drill 1/4" 304 s/s all the time and use the same bit over and over.
There are two types of s/s. 300 & 400 series. 300 is cheaper, magnetice and WILL rust. 400 is food grade, is non-magnetic and wont rust, unless as someone mentioned you use a cut-off wheel with steel particles in it.
Edited by fishhog (09/27/11 02:56 AM)
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