The button part is hard to master but the "Element of Cool" is worth the steep learning curve.

Well I also fish stripers in the surf, there is noway I would try a conventional reel because many of my plugs are not aerodynamic, and many times I am casting into a stiff westerly, so I understand that at times a spinning rod is the ticket.

I have enough confidence in myself to know that if others can learn a conventional for float fishing, so too can I. I like the fighting fish with a conventional more than I do a spinner, I like the idea of having a conventional in free spool letting more line out than I do a spinner with the bail open. I don't like line twist. So sure in the future I will also get a spinning outfit but for now I want to master the conventional in the river. I am aware I would have a much easier time with a spinning rod, but if it were only about easy, I doubt many would take on Center-pins.

In the Soquel Creek, 8 1/2 is more then adequate, it is a very small creek, a lot of people use fly rods and strip and flip fish.

Thanks for all the advise, it has helped.

For those little creeks like SL and Big sur that are brushy the strip and flip works so well. I like the drag of a conventional so I fish those mostly but my casting is usually strip,and flip

Allow me to revive this horse and beat it once again.

Most have told me I started out with too much rod and reel, well I had the Curado 300E for salmon mooching, and I have the Vedder 10-20 now, what do you suppose the minimum should be for this set-up, I'm thinking 10-12 lb test, 1/2oz float with a 1/4 jig and a few split shots, or is that also too light?

No, you can even ramp it up.

I have 2 10'6" SST 10-20 rods that I run 16-30gram bobs on.

The biggest issue with casting a bobber on a BC is the fact that it swings like a pendulum through the air, resulting in an uneven pull on the spool.

I gave up on a round reels and went with low pro's. Now my sh!t is outta the park, 150' casts? No problem.

Also running an aerodynamic bob helps a lot.



16g Fish Doctor bob flies better than a fat bob.

Todd is right, it is too light for that rod to load properly. I own that exact rod, as well as the lighter version. Without the rods loading properly, you can still cast medium distances, but unless you are very skilled with a level wind, you will continue to experience backlashes.
For practice purposes, bump up the weight, and cast control on the reel, and get very familiar with the whole setup and feel of everything. Then start backing down on the weight.
I consider the Vedder 10-20 more of a trophy size Steelhead rod for worming and big jigs, as well as a Springer float rod (eggs under a float).
For jig fishing with 1/4 oz jigs (even with in-line weight added) and smaller I prefer the lighter Vedder rod rated for 8-12.
Just my opinion though.

Bobs and kangs. You can cast 150' no problem with a 16 gram float?

They don't have rivers more than 40' wide......hmmm.

from what ive seen they do.. and he also fishes off the pier with them for all sorts of things... hes showed that...

YBD leave Al alone, he hasnt done anything to anyone on here... knock it off...

No problem.

Do you even fish? Or do you just sit in your lumber truck talking [Bleeeeep!] all day?

Only 40' wide bro..

What is a "low pro" A low profile reel? wouldn't the Curado be considered a low pro?


I have landed many hundred salmon out in the ocean with a 10-20lb outfit, most of these salmon are in the 15-20 lb range with NO river current. I guess this is why I am a little gun shy about tackling a 30lb Sacramento King, in a river current, with a rod rated for 8-12. Am I missing something, or overestimating the pull of a big king in a river flow?

If I were to keep the 10-20 for the Smith and SAC salmon you all would suggest using it more with heavier clusters of roe and heavier weights?

Would the 300E be suitable with a lighter set-up (8-12), a spool change and lighter line?

Barkoff,
Did you notice the post from Dave Vedder? Note the same name on your rod.....it isn't coincide. He is the dude that designed it.

The fish you describe I believe are great for the rod, the 300 series reel is also. Just bump the weight and float size up and you should be perfect. In my opinion there is no reason to "go light" on the tackle side for Salmon, as is often done for Steelhead.

Yep I saw his post, now that I have bought the rod I have I need to understand how to utilize it.

Since I am pretty new to river fishing, much of it is a mystery. For instance your statement ..

" In my opinion there is no reason to "go light" on the tackle side for Salmon, as is often done for Steelhead."

So what do you do when there are steelhead and big salmon in the same stretch of river? If you gear down to throw a 1/4" jig with a lighter rod, don't you risk a 25lb salmon inhaling said jig, and not being able to handle the fish in current?

When I fish where both exist, I am still targeting only one species. Yes, I do catch incidental fish of the non-target species, but generally only minimally. I have been fishing/catching these fish for forty plus years, and have acquired the skills to adapt when that happens. While the learning curve is in effect you will lose a number of fish, but that should teach you something and make you better able to deal with those circumstances when they occur.

Hook a 40# king on 6# test it will leave you with regret the rest of your angling career. Thats what it means.



Starting to suspect you may be a troll.

And you're starting to get on my nerves Mr. Happy.

not if you are fishing in a river that you cannot keep Kings, but CAN keep Steelhead... why would you run 20+ pound leaders on 6# Steelhead because there is 40# Kings you cant keep in there?

makes zero sense...

and the troll stuff was good YBD, solid fail on your part...