I know the guy that runs this boat, but never did hear the story behind these pics.

Miraculously, it looks like the boat did OK.

Bet it was a shock when it happened. I would not want to be the one to explain that one to my fishing buddies.

Someone's been looking through the Willie photo gallery again...

Pretty typical up there, we are welding on welds every year in Yakutat as those trailer take a beating.

What did the trailer hit a large pot hole or something!?! That's, gawd, I can't imagine being the driver....well I can kinda but DAMN that'd get your attention.

Speaks well for Willie boats..........couldn't have been going very fast, cause it doesn't look like "the tie downs straples" weren't being used in the back of the boat.......

probably dodged a herd of caribou only to slam into moose! moose got up after the jack-knife collision and ran off, i'd say.

Whatever happened that would sure SUCK big time!

Fishy

At least the boat looks Ok! Yikes!

Tons of rust finally catches up to you eventually. Just glad it wasn't worse than that. Usually its the U- bolts holding the axle to the frame that rust out fast.

or "trailer maggots", if your fishing Forks.

That would suck,how ever it looks like no damage was done to the boat which is huge.Good luck,
SZ

Left turn Clyde!

This can happen to ANY trailer, not just boats. It also can happen to semi trucks.

Threaded fasteners are designed and manufactured to be used ONCE.
In many application cap screws (bolts) are used again on motors and various frame work. The problem is, that bolts when torqued to the specification of the size and rating of the bolt and the job its intended for, reaches its maximum clamping force. Do that again, will stretch the bolt which distorts the pitch of the threads and causes the clamping force to be reduced, which allows most Hex nuts to back off. Not only that, people who do repairs at home, often end up with the wrong hardware. Capscrews and Hex nuts are rated based on the ID symbols stamped into the part by the MFG. A lot of fasteners are imported and there have been a lot of counterfeit fasteners on the market for years. If you use a typical grade 2 nut or stainless steel nut on a grade 8 or grade 12 bolt, you will not achieve the specified torque rating of the bolt and the nut will be deformed or stripped. Nylocks are common in the hardware stores, but if stripped the plastic collar inside the nut is not enough to keep the nut on. Stainless has the strength of grade 2. Most auto hardware is grade five, but since most fasteners are now metric, the typical ratings are 8.8 = grade 5 and 10.9 = grade 8. Metrics stamp the numbers on the head but the hex nut is literally stamped with what resembles a center punch and a hash mark at least on the american made grade 5 and 8 hex nuts. If you buy a cheap flat washer for a high torque application, the washer will flatten and reduce the torque rating.
When in doubt go to tacoma screw or high strength bolt or another commercial fastener retailer. When it comes to UBOLTS you should buy from the manufacture or go to a spring retailer. They sell and make coil and leaf springs. A retailer like 6 robblees is reliable and NAPA but if the counter guy cannot tell you what you are buying, then go somewhere else.

http://www.offroaders.com/tech/Bolt-Identification.htm

In a personal experience, I rode with a boat owner and fished the salt. At the launch I noticed his axle had moved from the center position on the leaf spring, on the drivers side. It was old and rusted. He failed to do proper maintenance. We tightened the U bolts at the launch but on the highway, the axle shifted again. That allowed the tire to rub on the fender, which heated the tire. The tire exploded and ALL FIVE lug nuts were stripped off the studs and the tire and rim was gone. We dragged the hub of the axle on the freeway until he stopped the vehicle. Fortunately he had a spare and we robbed a few lug nuts off the other axle so we could get it off the freeway and then dropped the trailer and bought some more lug nuts and U bolts.

Note to self: Check nuts.

A friend lost a trailer wheel on I-5 by Smokey Point. The tire bounced across the median into the north bound lane and hit a Neon being test driven. The plastic front end of the Neon did not fare well.

i kinda agree with you but the first time you use a bolt it stretches and acts as a clamp when at the proper torque but when you use the same bolt again its already stretched and you lose the clamping force.

from what ive heard that is changing because it`s cheaper to buy small bolts and use them near the max than use big bolts and not use them near there max specs.

no du but they do work together.

Predictable.
Cheapo bolt-together trailer placed in severe service.