Has anyone ever done any work with the valves on their Skookum Steelheader or Osprey?

I have some very small leaks in one chamber of my Steelheader and was hoping to remove the valve to put in some "ToobSeal" (basically a rubber-like product that seals from the inside). I've previously done something very similar on my Zodiac with good success. In attempting to remove the valve though, I've found that it is different than my Zodiac valves.

Does anyone know if the Steelheader valves are removeable and, if so, do they unscrew? I found that I actually could unscrew them and loosen them up but, so far, I can't actually remove them so I can have an open hole into the tube. Once they are slightly loosened, it seems like they just spin but don't come out anymore. Any idea if the internal part of the valve is (was!) glued to the inside of the tube?

The valve:


You can open some needle-nose pliars to use for twisting (not for grabbing). Now, the outer part of the valve will spin but I'm not sure if it is supposed to come out. I'm guessing there is either no nut on the bottom side and I broke the glue seal or there IS a nut and it is spinning with the valve?



Thanks for the help.

-AP

My best advise is to call the folks down there (800) 439- 1094. I believe that they still use the Robert Halkey valves. There is a bit of information, tools and other goodies on the NRS website too. Thats all I can offer, I sold my toon before it ever needed repair.

Good Luck,
Drew

Aaron...contact DaveD here (the one in Ellensburg)...

Also, I've got one of the wrenches for removing the valves...not sure how we'd do a handover of the wrench, though, since I need it back right away to do some work on my own boat before heading to BC at the end of the month.

Fish on...

Todd

With a little more research, I think I've learned that my problem can be solved by deflating the boat more and then grabbing the bottom (inside) part of the valve through the deflated fabric. From there, it actually should totally unscrew and come out.

Todd, those wrenches are best way to remove those valves but generally aren't required. If you are working on minor air leaks, I really think the inside-out ToobSeal repair is the way to go. The stuff is expensive ($140/gallon) but will actually work WAY better than trying to repair with patches or any sort of exterior seal. They sell ToobSeal by the quart (about $50) which would do your whole boat.

On a somewhat related note, I ran into someone with a Zodiac similar to mine that said he'd filled it with Nitrogen a couple of years ago and hadn't touched a valve since that point. Apparently, his boat was leaky before doing that. He also said that the Nitrogen fill also avoids the expansion/contraction associated with temperature changes. I have no first-hand experience with the Nitrogen fill though.

-AP

DaveD

I'm thinking of filling mine with Nitrous...that way if fishing sucks, we can just run a tube off the valve and get high instead.

Thoughts?



Fish on...

Todd

Nothing like a good whip it.

John, that question belongs in the Hmmm thread...

Wouldn't float higher for long. If it leaked before, it would leak more.

Hydrogen, another light gas, would give you more bang for your buck though.

For all you "Tooners" out there write this down.

Jim Sheflo
Atlas Fabrication
425-343-4105
Lake Stevens Wa

The guy is a master with toons. Used to own a whitewater raft shop. Builds his own class 5 whitewater pontoons. Fixed one of my pontoons that my wife hit with a bladed weedeater. Can do frame repair or mods. If it has to do with rafts or pontoons he can build it or repair it.

Update: I was able to unscrew and take apart the valves without issue one I deflated the toon enough to grab the lower part of the valve through the fabric. All sealed up and ready to go now.

Sorry for the late response AP...was out of town. Glad you was able to get it fixed.

For the record for anyone else who may do a future search, the Halkey Roberts (HR) valves can be removed by unscrewing them; there is a special wrench that makes it easy and can be replaced if needed. Or you can do it like AP did by fully deflating the pontoon.

Maxxon is now using Leafield valves in their rafts and I heard they are going to Leafield valves for their pontoons in the future as well. Generally most people feel Leafield valves are better.

Both styles can be replaced; I have a couple extra of each if folks need to replace one.

Dave, can you replace a HR with a Leafield?

Fish on...

Todd

That is a negative Todd. I asked the same question to the Maxxon dealer the last time I was there and he said no.