KNOPHISH posed a great question on my CR report thread. How tight should you set your drag for king fishing? I have heard every preference from almost nothing (the NON-drag theory) all the way to as tight as the star drag will allow, where line can only be pulled off the reel if you wrap it around your hand.

I had a very humbling experience back in 1998 when we lost 5 fish in a row due to soft rods and loose drags. Fish literally went screaming off with our backtrolled Kwikfish, but wouldn't stick. That's when I made the switch to non-stretch superbraids and stiffer rods. I tend to favor a tight drag to really bury that hook point when chasing big Kenai kings, but maybe that tactic doesn't work as well for these smaller Columbia springers. What do you guys think?

I get a scale and nail it to the floor, put my rod and reel in to a rod holder on my boat or bench and then tye the line to the scale. then you can reel down and crank the rod tight until you are showing 90% of the line strenght on the scale ,then (and this is the big part DONT MESS WITH IT AGAIN. you will set the hook and almost never bust the line. I did this for all my trout trolling rods a few years ago and caught severl land lock kings and browns that were double the 4 lb test i was using. this should work for kings as well. taught to me by a old marlin fisherman.

I personally use a medium heavy rod...20lb test and always a medium drag setting....maybe even a little tighter than that, I mostly anchor fish or troll...I NEVER (well ...only if i'm plunking from the bank while steelie fishing) use a single hook and if my rod goes down the fish ( if it's hooked right )will set the hook itself. Same thing for Fall fish... 20,30, and 40lb fish...wobblers or spinners...never have i lost one to line breakage. I trust my crystal Ivory and the knot i tie.

Louis F.

FishnDoc, I didn't vote in your poll since I don't fish the Columbia, but your story reminded me of an incident I had back in 98.
I always set my drags tight (gotta wrap around your hand to pull line) and I always explain to my guests why I do this and how I really prefer they don't mess with the drag. Well I get these 2 couples who have done there share of salmon fishing in Wa. and B.C. and seem to know the drill pretty well, with 1 exception, 1 of the guys informs me that he always fishes with virtually no drag and plans on doing this during this 4 day trip, I inform him that its both hard on fish and is very time consuming and keeps others from fishing while he's playing these fish. I let him know if he brings 1 up that I don't think is going to make it, it goes in the box, no debating. This guy is a decent fisherman and did ok for 3 days, no real problems but I always reminded him if he hooks a big king he better tighten down the drag and he would always come back with "don't worry about me", well, guess what happens on the last day, with about a 1/2 hour of fishing time left in their trip he, his wife and I all watch a king that was every bit of 45 lbs. grab his herring about a foot below the surface and head out at mach 3, the fish is doing its best flipper impression heading for the horizon, I throw the kicker in hard reverse and tell him he "has" to put some pressure on the fish, in less then 15 seconds that fish spooled a full Penn 109 (1 and only fish that has ever spooled someone on my boat) this guy proceeds to throw down the rod (GLoomis ) and claim it was my fault for not firing up the main and not chasing his fish, we exchanged a few words

Medium/medium hard pressure so the hook sets when the fish bites, then loosened to play the fish out. The resistance at this point is best applied when it comes from the thumb or palm, depending on reel preference.

Well, I didn't vote either but I can tell you what I use when fishing for kings in the salt. I use medium heavy drag setting and usually after the first two good runs or so I tighten it down a little more. My theory is to let the fish run but make it work really hard to do it. Then by tightening it after the fish is showing signs of being tired I am able to get it to the boat faster. I truly believe it not only whips the fish physically but mentally also. I too use braided spectra (powerpro) and have utmost faith in its ability to withstand a lot of drag tension. The biggest problem that I had last year was a day that I hooked 18 kings and smoked the drag on my Okuma spinning reel. I'll never use a spinning reel on a king again. I was actually fishing for pinks when the kings showed up and I switched from 10 lb power pro to 20 lb powerpro and used my rod I use for silvers which is a 7 foot medium action rod g loomis IM6 blank. After that day I looked at my rod and although the blank held up supurbly you could see where the guide wraps were a little stressed. I guess what I am saying is use a drag setting that your weakest link can handle or you will ruin something. The next day I went down with a proper set up and slayed the fish again but because I was using a longer rod I had to work a little harder because of the loss of leverage.

Sounds like the tighter the better But I haven't caught one yet but soon. Looks like their coming in pretty good now.

I only use braided lines for floats, but when running mono for kings, I put the screws to 'em. Tight drags all the way.

The key when using bait behind a diver, or Kwikies is to wait...wait...wait...wait.... Once they turn with it, set the hook as if you're gonna break the rod.

The Really Big One gives a great example of how to set the hook for his Ditch Fish. Half the people flinch, and scream like little children at the sight of him setting the hook like there is no tomorrow!

Let's say you've waited, the 50 pound Ditch fish has turned, the rod is pegged, and line is peeling away at a furious pace. Any attempts to try to just lift the rod up, one or two handed, will be futile, and you'll lose the fish. What you should do is straighten out your arm and make a hook or "J" with your fingers. Place this "J" (IE, your bent fingers") under neath the rod, just above the reel. Do not put any fingers on the line, as you'll either cut the line, or get badly burned. With all your might and quickness, forecfully lift the rod straight up in the air! This takes some power as a 50 pound Ditch fish has your rod pinned horizontal to the water! Yank that damn rod up with all your might! Don't be afraid to bust a rod, as you won't, but it will feel like it. With the rod straight up and pointing towards the sky, you will easily (and quickly) be able to get the rod out of the rod holder and begin the battle.

Not only does it set the hooks, but it allows for you to easily and quickly get a pinned rod out of the rod holder.

One of these seasons, I'll make a video of it. I pretty much live for the K-15 take down and the hookset that follows.

I'd be willing to bet that most people lose fish on divers or Kwickies because they failed to wait, or they failed to properly and aggressively set the hook correctly. I see it all the time when out fishing in other boats.

Parker, sounds like that works just fine for the rods pointing downriver. What about when a side-rigger rod is sitting horizontal in the rodholder pointing perpendicular to the boat. Is it possible to set the hook from the rodholder in this position?

I live for the Kwikfish bite on a side-rigger when the rod is bent all the way to the handle and you can hardly remove it from the rodholder.

I fish with riggers when I am in a boat 99% of the time. I use a 14' skiff with small scotty riggers. and a 2 to 4 lb ball depending if I am in a lake ,res or Salt. I can't stand fixed weight on my line. So my drag is set light so I can get my rod out of the holder on a take down. the clip is where I set the hook intially then I my give it a heave ho depending on the setup. If my line comes off the rigger the fish is hooked and I lose maybe 1 out of 100. I set the tension on the clip based on the size of the fish I am after . I then tighten my drag a bit but for the most part free spool and thumb or reel back to stay in contact with the fish at all times. Unless its a fish that want to take real long runs then I will use the drag more. My feeling on the Spring thing and banana lead is the fish can move a bunch before he gets into your drag so by the time you get your hands on the rod its had time to shake and bake.

Unless you have some obstruction down below the rod holder that is preventing the butt of the rod from swinging down, yeah, odds are, you should still be able to set the hook this way. Once the rod is out of the barrel of the holder, it's free to swivel upright at almost 360 degrees. Again, with the hook of my fingers I'd lift and yank at the same time. Once you get the rod past that black plastic barrel, you should be free to get the rod in the vertical position. Hard to explain, but easy enough to follow once you see or do it.

If I had a boat configured this way, I'd look in to those swiveling rod holders that the Really Big One uses on his boats. Sorry, but I don't recall the names of them. You can still swivel the rod holder out and away from the boat, yet keeping the rod tip pointing (mostly) down river. If the baits (Kwikies) are staggered, you can get those rods pretty close together without tangling gear....until a fish hits, but at that point, it's all fun any ways! I love goat rodeos!

You boys keep breaking your backs if you want. I was with you, Parker, until the back breaking hookset. I think if the rod is bent down, a simple, firm, solid lift is all that is necessary. I keep my drags pretty firm, but nowhere near Alaska/Kenai tight.

However, while that is what I think, every time I actually set the hook, I let out a guttural roar that causes heads to turn, jaws to drop, and women to cover the ears of small children, while I attempt to deliver enough force to the hook to penetrate 1/8 plate steel.

Seriously, all I look for is a good firm lift. If there is any resistance, any of these gucci hooks we are using will either penetrate or skate off the bone. More effort is just theatrics, in my opinion. Further, I think the fish is hooked or not by However, I acknowledge that the pros are saying differently, and there is probably a lot I could learn if I shut up and watched. (Beatcha to it, Dawg!)

BTW, Predator Dawg is nursing a 103 degree fever and feeling bad that he can't fish, so let's all give him a great big "Aw-w-w-w."

I agree with the words... "the fish is either hooked or not" If my rod goes down i grab the rod..and lift it...feel the tension, and give a nice tug...Very simple.... i NEVER wait...Many a time i have even put the rod back in the holder and let my anchor rope go and then go back and pick up the rod again...When the fish attack your offering they mean business....when it starts thumping hard the fish is panicking and making that long run away from this invisible force that threatens it's life...Don't worry..it'll all be covered in my new book.. " The Anatomy of a Take-Down". Chapter one... Who told you to wait ??

Louis F.