For non-experts: From the bank (or anchored boat), most of you know the basics, but I've watched for years anglers not aware of drifting intricacies or whom just don't get after it to properly work over a piece of Steelhead holding water. They will often cast repeatably to the center or far side of the drift and let their rig linebelly drag thru the same warnout slot. Try something better. With just enough weight to keep your rig (corky & eggs or whatever) bouncing along along the bottom slightly slower than the current (requires frequent lead adjustments- don't fish lazy), start at the upper end and work all potential holding areas from close to you then extending casts progressively farher out. Then step down thru the drift casting/drifting this way. That's basic; now some intricacies.- If you're on the weaker side of the current that progressively deepens or quickens, which is the preferable side, cast upstream a little furher out than your target slot; keeping the rodtip up a little and pointing upstream at about a 45 deg. angle. Wait a couple seconds after the rig hits the water then reel in the slack line. Importantly, ever-so-slightly reel the drifting rig toward shore until it's out in front of you. This not only keeps you tight lined, it keeps the drifting corky or eggs, etc., a little farther away than the lead sinker so that when a fish picks it up the leader deslackes quicker enabling a quicker feel and hookset (w/ STICKY SHARP hook). And don't think the rig has to always drift straight with the current except for the ending swing over. Fish will pick it up above you as it is being very slowly reeled toward your side. As your rig drifts down to staight out from the rodtip stop reeling then move the tip the speed of the rig until it's now pointing at a 45 deg. angle downstream. Then let it swing over to the side; and if it's deep enough below you, backbounce it there for a bit(e). On succeeding casts extend the rigs drift by free spooling line out such that you don't get too much lineslack; which dampens feel and hookset.- When you are fishing variable speed mixed currents, then as your rig hits water instantly throw an upstream line mend if the current is stronger nearer you (and sometimes even mend downstream if the current abruptly slows just your side of the drifting rig), while keeping it drifting as natural as possible- takes a lot of practice. It helps to get as close to the slot as is safe and won't spook fish because of less linedrag slack. On long casts it also helps to hold the rodtip up higher for the same reason. It's better to fish slower water on the far side with a float. Steelhead like to hold in smooth tailouts after ascending rapids, to rest a bit, especially behind boulders. Try to drift, backbounce, then swing your rig there. If you haven't hooked up and you think there are fish present, go back to the top and try drifting, swinging, and retrieving spinners or spoons. If you can extend your rodtip out over holding water, work a Hot Shot, Wiggle Wart, or Tadpoly down thru it.- For drifting bite-feel-hookset see followup reply. - Steve Hanson

Driftfishing bite-feel-hookset: Detecting a Steelhead pick up drifting bait or plastic bobber is not as difficult as some veteran fishers would have novices believe. If you become reasonably proficient at drift presentation (covered above), periodically check and resharpen hooks, use appropriate bait/lure for the water conditions, and steelies are present you will learn soon enough how to detect bites. In colored water use an 18" to 20", 12# leader (deslackes quicker and the fish won't be distracted by the lead rigup). For medium water use a 22" to 24", 10# leader. For clear water use a 26" up to 30", 6 to 8# leader. My problem with some how to articles is then the novice will go out "setting the hook" every few feet- often disturbing fish &/or stripping your bait off the hook. The only time to set it is when you are fairly sure a fish has the bait in it's mouth (as when it hits hard or immediately head shake jerks- you'll obviously know). Because fish often pick up a drifting bait gently I recommend what I refer to as a "lift-poke-set" method. It does take some experience to feel the difference between the river bottom or a fish stopping your baitdrift. Immediately when this happens smoothly lift the rodtip a little. This usually will pull your lead around a rock without causing a commotion. If it is a fish then you have "poked" the hookpoint. You'll quickly feel movement or a head shake so instantly wristsnap the rod back to "set" the hook deep! "There-ee-is". Keep the line tight so the fish won't slack it and have fun!- In deeper water, Steelhead (and especially Chinook) will often nibble at a bait. Be patient until they pull the line down or apply a very gentle "lift-poke-set". Sometimes in this situation slight backbounce twitching will entice a strong take. Tight lines. - Steve

Reel Truth --- When you increase the leader length and the line #test decreases do you also down size hook size? Or are other variables more important to hook size? --- Your "lift-poke-set" method is how I was taught and has worked for me and gave me confidence that I could also catch fish not just snags. ---

Rusty- Yah, I do downsize hooks but not much. I usually drift 1/0's for Steelhead & with the longer lighter leader rigs for clear water I will use a 1; or even a 2 where it's both legal & gin clear.- More important is stealth. Slow quiet movement in camo clothes can help the cause. When it's clear it's usually also low so I prefer using my McKenzie Cataraft for quiet. Aluminum driftboaters need to park it at the hole above & stealth approach on foot. I see a few guys loudly clank their way down thru the shallow entry to a hole & start fishing gin clear water. Don't see em catch fish. - Steve