sds,
A few thoughts on training, assuming you have a birdy pup that's still young.

For pointers "whoa" is the center of the wagon wheel when training. The "whoa" command is to only be used on live birds. This is best done with two people. Since you have pigeons a remote controlled trap is best. A typical training session goes like this-

Strategically place a couple of traps hidden in a bush where one won’t be in the way of the other. Get some pheasant scent (or scent of whatever you plan on hunting) and apply to 5 or 6 pieces of cotton cloth and place down wind of the traps.

Go home and grab the pup. You don't want her to know it's a training session.

Try and choose good scent conditions ie. cool, dry with some moisture/dew on the grass and a mild, steady wind.

With your helper manning the lead head out as if on an actual hunt. Carry a .22 to start (if your pup hasn't been around gunfire yet). Walk the field and at first look for actual birds, robins and such. If she points a bird re-enforce it with "whoa" and a palm up hand signal. Have the helper take out most of the slack of the lead as you flush the bird. The pup will bolt and the helper needs one HARD yank to stop the pup. You pop off a round as the birds flushes (don't worry about gunshy'ness as if you time it right the pup wont even hear the gunshot and the pup should be 10' or so behind you). Pick the pup up (don't walk) and set her back down at the exact place you gave the "whoa" command. Give another "whoa" (with the hand signal always) and go back where the bird flushed and sort of kick around like you are looking for another bird.

If your pup is holding point walk back and pat her on the head and give a release command (usually her name but I use "alright").

Being a GS she will probably lose her mind and if so you have a lot of work ahead. This is actually good news in that you can't teach birdiness.

This is "sight" pointing. Repeat often all day every day during walks and such. Being single and in a Condo this is as far as I made it and is the biggest reason Sage is not steady to shot! Do not ever let your pup see a bird and not give the "whoa" command!!!

Now slowly work your way downwind of the cotton pieces and the trap. Watch your pup very closely! Timing here is critical!!! She'll get a quizzical look on her face as she gets puff of scent. At the exact same time-"whoa", release the trap, bang, yank!

This is a scent point. You'll know your close when she hits that puff of scent and stops/points immediately no matter how messed up her balance is or how awkward her posture is. I've seen Sage almost tip over on a wayward gust of wind. You see this on the hunting shows occasionally (most shows edit this out, give an "easy" command allowing the dog to obtain a classic point for the camera's as the hunter gets in position).

When she's at that point make her hold the point "whoa" as you kick around near the trap and then release, bang, yank.

As she progresses switch it up some. One time simulate a "wild" immediate release of the pigeon and another kick around for five minutes occasionally giving her the "are sure look" before tripping the release.

You must be extremely consistent during this process. Never ever let her break point without picking her up and placing her back on the exact spot-"whoa" hold and then release "alright." Preferably with a good hard yank knocking her ass over teakettle at the break! This is true during all training sessions but even more important during actual hunting trips after successfully shooting a bird. Remember what can take all year to train can be undone during two minutes of actual hunting experience!!! You must not make the mistake of having a pup that holds a point thru the flush and gunshot during training but not during actual hunting trips. Believe me the pup will learn the difference between the two. This is what D3 probably experienced. A professionally trained pointer that was world class at the trainers but no where close in the field! Be extremely careful around other dogs and hunters. If you plan on hunting release sites just teach your pup her name as the rest is a waste of time. She'll learn more bad habits around other dogs in two minutes then you could train in 10 years!!! The same is true of good habits though. Seriously think about a guided trip with professionally trained pointers as a training session and not a hunt. The guide will understand and be a real big help in this process.

Expect this process to take up to three or four years. A labs prime time is around 2-8 or 10 years depending on size. A GSP's prime time is about 4-10 or 12 years.

This process is what I witnessed/learned while having my first pup professionally trained. Having been trained with a shock collar the process was a wee bit different but not much!

A note about shock collars. Do not even think about using one without the guidance of a professional trainer. As stated at the top and inferred throughout timing is critical. A shock to re-enforce "whoa" can very easily be mistaken by the pup as a shock to re-enforce "bad dog you found another bird." The biggest difference between the two methods, lead v. collar, is that the pup is forced trained, usually within the first 6-9 months, "whoa" long before ever being introduced to live birds. Use the utmost of extreme caution if thinking about a collar!!!

Now your ready for retrieve training-Yikes! Brittanies are well known as the best retriever of the pointing class, the only pointer that does not always require "force" training. And you've seen the issue's I have above and Sage is a retrieving fool in and out of the water. Not so with a GSP but I aint touching that today as this is easily the longest post I’ve ever made on PP.