I really like the dink style float. I like its great bouyancy. I like the way it points in the water and gives an indication of how your terminal gear is presenting. I like the way it jumps under water, as opposed to the prevalent wooden models, which seem to just melt into or under the water. I like the fact that with the center hole models, you can cut them down to size.

I really like the center hole model and I just scream when I need them and can't find them in the stores. When I do find them, I buy up a bunch. I'm sure there's a place for both. I'm sure a real pro, with a properly long rod, can make deadly use of the wind-around style. I'm not so wealthy that I can buy a different rod for every presentation (yet). I fish a 9 foot because I can use it for both drifting and float fishing. It does o.k., except in situations where more distance is required. I like the center hole model because of the great adaptability it gives you, both with a shorter rod and quick changes of depth below the float.

One thing - use a good glue to fix the tube in the foam. I have had some trouble with tubes sliding, especially after I have cut a float down.

Also, I could use a plastic bead with a smaller diameter hole. It seems that the beads I find available, even the smallest ones, have holes so big that they will slip over a nail knot float stop tied out of anything smaller than 12 lb. test line. The rod I have is a very good one, but its tiptop has a very small diameter. Anything larger than a nail knot of 12 lb. test will give problems hanging up, either while reeling up or in casting. A bead with a smaller diameter hole would allow me to tie my nail knots out of 8 or so pound test and this would make for smoother operation.

I think one needs a pretty good variety of lengths and diameters, but because you can cut them down so easily, maybe not too much emphasis need be given to manufacturing and finishing sizes for every eventuality. Several diameters and several lengths, should do nicely, along with advertisement that these can be readily cut to whatever size the situation calls for. I definitely like the fact that you can cut these down to just float the presentation you are making, wheter in rough water or calm water.

One problem when cutting down a float with a larger diameter is that the small presentation you are cutting it down for won't keep the float in the correct upright position. So for small presentations, a small diameter is needed, not just a short, fat float.

Of course, once you cut your float, you have the part you cut off and now it doesn't have a painted top, so what kind of paint do you use? Where do you buy it. I'm sure you can buy it in bulk, package it in usable size containers and sell it to people like me, with a passion for this type of fishing.

Color of the foam material? I don't know. I've never had any complaint about grey. Is there really that much difference when viewed from under water? It would seem that the smaller, the better. The more nearly you can mimick a simple stick or piece of debris, the better. When these things are drifted way downstream, the only thing I continue to see is the color painted on top. The body of the float disappears.


I really don't care what color the top ring is painted, as long as it is as visible as possible. The international orange is the color most in use on the dink floats that I buy. It seems to do alright in most conditions. Aren't there studies that show the most visible color is some sort of green? They use green of some sort to mark signs on runways. The FAA has regulations on colors that describe what kind of green this highly visible color is. I don't think just plain red is very effective.

While you are at it, how about some type of line dressing that floats the main line. A proper length rod should do most of the trick, but there will always be a length of line nearest the float that will be on the water. I've heard musilin (sp?) works, but is it especially easy to find?

Would love to see what you come up with.