I was given a fly rod and reel and plan on attempting to expand my steelhead skills into flyfishing. Only problem is I don't know what line to buy? The rod is a 9'- #8 line G Loomis PMR 1088F. The reel has some cursive letters on it and says STK (I think) 789 and is made in Argentina. I plan on going to the Sauk for some winter/sprig steelheading. I realize I'll need more than one line/technique to completly cover all holding water, but that isn't an option at this point. I envision using 3-4' #10 test leaders with sinking tip line. So I'm asking all the expesrts; all around, is this my best bet? If so, what would be a good line to start my possible future fly line collection with? If not, what technique and line should I employ for all around winter steelhead fishing? Also, I've herd of guys using either a line weight up or down (I can remeber wich) for what their rod is rated for. Should I do this or stick to #8 line and why? Thanks for any advice.

Try going with the multi-tip line put out by Rio. It has 4 tips that are 15' long each. A floating. Intermiedate(sp), type 3 and type 6 sink tips and by now a type 8 sink tip. Don't as me what the grains are as I'm to stupid to know. I would stay with what it is called out for on the rod. But what do I know,I'm just an old man.

Old man has a good point about the multi-tips. Rio, Cortland, Airflow, SA all make thier version. My one piece of advice is overline (get a 9wt. line if you have an 8wt rod) the rod. It will load the rod easier for casting. You can also make short peices of "shooting" heads or buy them with loop connectors on them to get your fly deeper than the factory head on your multi-tip. Most multi-tips run around $100 but you can find them cheaper on sale some times and on ebay.

Thanks for the advice guys. Since i don't have an extra $120 laying around I'm going to have to experiment for a wile. I was told that the line presently on the reel is some cortland camo line and is an intermediate sinking line. I bought a 15' Rio sink tip type 6. The guy at the store showed me how to dip my line in acetone and strip off the outer line coating and tie a loop for attaching the sink tip. Hopefully I can find some ballance in this set- up and manage to keep a tight line. At least untill I find a good deal on a Rio or Airflow interchageable tip system. Thanks

Another thought for your consideration. I you take a regular length DT line one or two line sizes above your rod (1 for a 'traditional blank action,' 2 for a 'Euro action)'put a loop on the end of this and you've got a very good ... and cheap head system.

The long belly tapered lines such as the SA XLT'S and (especially) the RIO GrandSpey lines also work very well with the Airflo and Rio sinking leaders.

Probably repeating myself here, but with a dry line and a sinking leader combo you have line control like non-other.

Put a "butt section" of 3-4 feet off the tip of the dry line (I use 20# maxima MAIN LINE for line wts 8 and down, and 25# 8-9 Euro's or 9wt and above regardless. Tie a loop to the end of this and loop to loop to the sinking leader. Couple of feet of tippet material off the end of this to the fly(s) and you really are good to go.

System sounds like a "lash-up" but I assure you it works very well. The key to the thing is the 3-4 foot 'butt section' dropper. This allows the sinking leader to 'sink' and all of the dry line to float. With a 15'spey rod you can still mend the 'dry line' out to 60-70 feet.
fae

An "edit" of the above (Bob, where the heck did you hide the "edit button?")

If you're going to use a DT line for a 'launcher line' CUT off the forward taper back to the point of 'level line.' Put on a loop and you're good to go. If you use one of the 120 DT spey lines you can actually cut it in half and have two tip systems.
fae

The little eraser on the folder Fred

While most of my rods are all set with "stationary" lines ... I've run the Versa-Tip system on some rods for clients that I need to outfit and I've been fairly impressed overall with them. The connections aren't as smooth as some of the home-made set-ups I've made, but if you're limited on spools and such, save up a few $$$ and try one, I don't think you'd be disappointed.

Mr. Evans,
Thanks for the advice. I got some floating line and cut off the taper end and did the loop thing. Just some questions, does your dropper section of mono ever cause your line to hinge wile casting (I will be casting with one hand)? I made a type one sink tip out of some Cortland camo line I had, do you think the reel end of this line would make a better or worse dropper than mono? I plan on experimenting with both just wanted to hear your opinion. Thanks.
Matt

Don't listen to Mr Evans. He doesnt' know anything. He just THINKS he does.

LOL

Hopefully may see you at the Sandy Clave next week Fred.

Sparkey here ?? hope to see you there..


Not to be contrary because i haven't spend a whole lot of tiem with multi tip lines for single habded rods but the ones i have cast ( cortland and Rio) i didn't care for.. ( personal preference ONLY!!!

If you can only afford one line , for the fishing you plan on doing (winter run on the Sauk) I would recomment a mastery "wet tip" 13 ft type 4 sink tip. These are the smoothest casting sink tips i have used..

Sparkey has to work!

Matt, first my appoligizies for the delay in responding to your question. Not been on the Board of late.

You'll find that 'hinging' won't really be much of an issue with the cut back DT looped to tips. I use them on my spey rods all the time. Vis a vis leaders, with tips you'll be running a very short leader .... 3-4 foot max. Most of us down here on the Rogue use maxima main line for our leader materials, and perhaps just a short run of regular leader material for the actual tippet. The 'stiffer' leader allow for better transmition of energy when your casting/fly turn over. Regular leader material is too soft for heavy/wted flys.
fae