I have a Sage 896 (9'6' 8WT) that I need to setup with a cost effective but quality reel. While the majority of time will be fresh water, I would like the option of using in the salt so a reel that stands up to salt would be preferable.

I am thinking large arbor, quality drag and if it has a clicker - one thats not obnoxious.

Since there is no shortage on opinions aorund here, I would love to hear your thoughts.

Thanks!

The redington delta or rise would be on my list.

I bought an Allen Alpha II last spring for my salt water 8 wt that should satisfy your criteria. The cost is pretty reasonable, which is partly why I bought it.

Sg

Price range?

Im open- Im more concerned with value for my dollar.

Something above $100 up to $350-400 inc line?

I am a big fan of the Lamson Litespeed reels. I think I own 4-5 now. The 3.5 size would likely be the one to fit/balance your 8wt. The models with X in the model # (3.5X, 3X) have a deeper spool to accommodate larger/thicker fly lines. The 3.5 goes for $350 retail but you can find better deals on them.












They hold up to salt water just fine. The drag is sealed and most other components fairly corrosion resistant. I let a couple sit for a few days before I rinsed salt water off them and did get a little corrosion on the screw that holds the reel handle in place, but it cleaned up just fine.

The clicker/drag is very mellow/quiet compared to most.

Super solid reels and no complaints. I like how light they are because you can oversize your reels for a give weight/rod without compromising on balance. I plan to stick with them for a while.

Good luck.

That is a pretty wide price range.
The Redington's mentioned are good options.
Ross CLA
Sage 4280
Galvan Torque...although that is stretching your budget with a line included.

I'd go with the Redington Rise or Delta. If you want to spend a little more then the Sage 4200 series would be a fine choice.

im partial to Hardy reels, but im not a full time fly fisherman so take that with a grain of pepper..

can be used both salt and fresh...


http://www.ebay.com/itm/HARDY-ZANE-SALTW...=item5895f4f155

I would take a bit farther and mention that a fly reel should also hold all of your intended line+backing as well. This is a definite consideration with the movement towards these bulkier weight forward and spey/switch oriented lines.

The balance thing, well that is less of a characteristic and more of a math problem/feel sorta thing i suppose and is solvable within any given line of reels regardless of quality.

Yes, the fly reel is a fairly simple beast of which very little is demanded or needed. That having been said, how boring would it be if the reels were designed as simply as their required functionality could dictate. That would be like only having one color of ascot.

Says the authority who has fly fished all of what, twice, now? Indeed most fly fishermen could get by with a toys R us reel because most fly fishermen fish for trout and panfish, with the reel serving mainly as a line holder. However the original poster intends some saltwater use with his 8 wt rod. And for saltwater fish species, a good disc drag that operates smoothly, as Stam describes, is an asset for 8 wt and heavier. The main reason for choosing a disc drag reel for lighter line weights IMO is that they are usually cheaper than a good traditional spring and pawl reel. However, I have used spring and pawl reels on bonefish to good effect.

Coley likes his Lamsons. I don't have any experience with them, primarily because a friend used them and had the drag go into freewheel when it got wet. Maybe Coley has newer models of Lamsons that have an improved disc drag. Another reasonably priced reel that gets good reviews for saltwater use is the Ross CLA. The Allen reel I mentioned above holds 200 yd of 20# backing and a WF8F saltwater line and has been tested in Mexico.

Sg

The Lamson line uses a proprietary conical drag design. I have yet to have a problem with any of mine and they are the smoothest I have used.



http://waterworks-lamson.com/our-story/

From Lamson's site re: disc drag vs. their conical:

The first problem is associated with the disk shape itself. A typical approach is to use two disks (one stationary, one rotates). But the disks need to be large in order to have the surface area required to generate stopping power. Once a disk is large it cannot be sealed from the elements, and this exposure brings with it a long list of other problems.

To address this problem, we reshaped the traditional disk drag into two mated cones. By doing so, we are able to take advantage of a large surface area for torque, but we reduce the overall diameter of the system so it could be fitted into a sealed chamber. The male cone is precisely machined to mate with a female cone; the male rotates while the female remains stationary.

The male conical element is a polymer alloy with an extremely low co-efficient of friction, and the female element is a Teflon impregnated metallic surface. The male cone has a very low co-efficient of thermal conductivity, meaning it conducts heat very slowly. The female cone, which is part of the frame, conducts heat very quickly. Thus, when heat is product by friction it is “wicked” off the male cone and out through the frame. The polymer alloy and Teflon/metal cones run without any oil or grease; thus no maintenance is required to keep the drag system performing at it’s best. And because the drag parts require no lubrication, don’t wear, and are fully sealed, the fisherman will never experience a change in performance and will never be burdened with cleaning, lubricating or maintaining the drag in any way.

Coley, if the drag remains sealed from water, that should make the difference. My friend's experience was a while back. Next time I see him I'll try to remember to ask about the drag design on the reels he had.

I could see that. If for some reason the seal failed, water would create quite a friction free and efficient bearing of sorts for the parts to spin on.

Salmo,
Your friend probably had an LP. That was common with those models and that was when they were still produced on Bainbridge Is.

I've owned a couple of Litespeeds. No issues with the drags. My only issue was with how thin they are. They machine them down pretty thin so there isn't a ton of metal there. I ended up bending both of them.
One fell over in a padded rod on reel case in my garage. Hit the concrete floor and bend the spool. The other had the frame bent when I took a header on the river.
Both my fault, but I've had similar things happen with my older Ross's without issue.
Lamson was great and repaired both quickly.

They claim to have fixed that problem with the new "hard alox" material. I agree though, they aren't beefy by any stretch of the word which is both a blessing and a curse depending on the context.

I ran over one of my spey reels with a car recently. It didn't fare well at all.

I heard that as well about the hard alox.
Both of the them that I owned where very early models.

You tell me Stam. You're the ascot expert. It looked like you were tossing bait, in the fly fishing forum again. Good thing for you it isn't fly fishing only regulations. Now about those eggs, you serving bacon with 'em? And if it's "just fishing" to you, why do you invariably expend the extra effort to draw the distinction? Meanwhile, have you had any fly reel failures? I've had a couple that I wouldn't trade for anything just for the stories and memories they provided.

Sg

Why not one day make a pact with your partner.....
"OK, no drags today. Let's crank 'em down tight and palm these beotches."

I'll bet after a while it would become the thing to do.

Every time I fish with a "fly" reel, it is a failure

I must admit, I was surprised that Stam made an initial appearance in the fly forum without ruffling a few feathers...pardon the pun. Glad we got back on track pretty quick.