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#815126 - 01/14/13 08:34 PM Re: Plastic Worms setup question [Re: ParaLeaks]
Direct-Drive Offline
ExtenZe Field Tester

Registered: 11/10/09
Posts: 8060
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Prolly Skittles these days.
But you never see the inside of the boat or the van and live to tell.
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#815213 - 01/14/13 11:48 PM Re: Plastic Worms setup question [Re: Todd]
sykofish Offline
I'm not short, I'm 'fun size'

Registered: 12/25/07
Posts: 1511
Loc: Mulletville
Originally Posted By: Todd
Worms for steelhead are just an urban myth perpetrated on the fishing community by flynymphers...they're for bass.

Fish on...

Todd


rofl

And some here think there is a difference between a Carolina rig and a Texas rig.

rofl LMAO
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Rusty Bell

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#815271 - 01/15/13 01:02 PM Re: Plastic Worms setup question [Re: sykofish]
SkykomishSunrise Offline
Juvenile at Sea

Registered: 02/03/09
Posts: 233
I guess that I will chime in here. This question only pertains to using an artificial worm under a float (as in float fishing). Just out of curiosity, do any of you have any preference in regards to using a worm that has been threaded onto your leader, or one that has been threaded onto a jig hook? If so why?
_________________________
"During every one of those thousands or more casts, the angler must cling to a silent prayer that is forever a winter’s hope, no matter what the actual fly pattern.”

Bill McMillan

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#815320 - 01/15/13 04:01 PM Re: Plastic Worms setup question [Re: SkykomishSunrise]
Gray Ghost Offline
Juvenile at Sea

Registered: 03/30/08
Posts: 148
Loc: Washington
To rig for Bobber Doggin/Float Drifting, rig a leader threaded float worm and usually with some kind of drift bobber.

Some think a weighted jig hook comes unhooked easier than a octopus hook, because of the weight leverage of the weighted jig hook.

If one prefers using octopus style hooks over weighted jig hooks, rig a leader threaded neutral/sink worm.

I like using bait weights (solid brass bead, Cheater weight, egg weight) with a leader threaded neutral/sink worm for suspended (1-2' above bottom) float fishing. Peg the bait weight and worm (mono. 1/16" barbed uni float stop knot) to stop scrunching.

My favorite bait weights are nickel plated solid brass beads (9/32", 11/32" & 3/8") that are painted with transparent Dick Nite Fishermun's Lure-Coat (two coats/dips) and CS Coatings UV Blast (one coat/dip). The nickel bleeds through for an awesome uv candy color. These can also be used for jig heads with an 18 X 1" escutcheon pin.

GG


Edited by Gray Ghost (01/15/13 04:05 PM)

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#815504 - 01/16/13 08:21 AM Re: Plastic Worms setup question [Re: Gray Ghost]
Nick Berto Offline
Juvenile at Sea

Registered: 07/18/11
Posts: 248
Loc: Monroe, WA
Here are a few pics I gathered off the web on worm rigging...







And here are a few of mine...






And here are a few setups from BOB when he came and did a seminar not to far back.

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#815509 - 01/16/13 09:31 AM Re: Plastic Worms setup question [Re: SkykomishSunrise]
DrifterWA Offline
River Nutrients

Registered: 04/25/00
Posts: 5077
Loc: East of Aberdeen, West of Mont...
Originally Posted By: SkykomishSunrise
I guess that I will chime in here. This question only pertains to using an artificial worm under a float (as in float fishing). Just out of curiosity, do any of you have any preference in regards to using a worm that has been threaded onto your leader, or one that has been threaded onto a jig hook? If so why?



Jig head......can change color, easily. I'm a newbie, to using PW, so still learning.

I've been fishing the PW out of my boat......really makes it easy to fish a whole stretch of river, with the bobber/jig/PW.

1/15/13....Just trying....I use PP, Hi Vis, 75 yds. with leader below to fill the spool. I fished a stretch where I was into the backing....75 yds. seemed like a mile...........didn't catch any fish but sure allowed me to cover the whole section of water.


Oh.....the picture to the left, was my 1st PW caught Steelhead.....thank heavens it took my bobber down twice, gave me a chance...lmao


Edited by DrifterWA (01/16/13 10:30 AM)
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#815536 - 01/16/13 12:38 PM Re: Plastic Worms setup question [Re: Nick Berto]
yarnballsdeep
Unregistered


I dig the nightmare rags Nick.

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#816589 - 01/20/13 06:45 PM Re: Plastic Worms setup question [Re: Direct-Drive]
TheHunt Offline
Juvenile at Sea

Registered: 01/05/08
Posts: 125
Loc: Puyallup, WA
Originally Posted By: Direct-Drive
I like to peg a small Corky above the worm to protect the worm from getting pushed down.
When that happens, the worm starts to spin and I don't want that going on.

The best toothpicks for pegging are the long tapers.
They usually have a square center and a nice long (round) taper.
Always peg the worm side of the Corky (or whatever) and leave a little space between the Corky and worm.



I picked up the wrong tooth picks. WHAT A PAIN IN THE A$$... Live and learn...

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#816601 - 01/20/13 07:49 PM Re: Plastic Worms setup question [Re: TheHunt]
Direct-Drive Offline
ExtenZe Field Tester

Registered: 11/10/09
Posts: 8060
Loc: Vancouver, WA
Originally Posted By: TheHunt
Originally Posted By: Direct-Drive
I like to peg a small Corky above the worm to protect the worm from getting pushed down.
When that happens, the worm starts to spin and I don't want that going on.

The best toothpicks for pegging are the long tapers.
They usually have a square center and a nice long (round) taper.
Always peg the worm side of the Corky (or whatever) and leave a little space between the Corky and worm.



I picked up the wrong tooth picks. WHAT A PAIN IN THE A$$... Live and learn...

Yep, gotta have them nice long tapers for deep Corky penetration.
I nip 'em with a little sidecutter instead of breaking them, leaving a light 1/8" exposed so you can tighten, loosen, what have you.
Journeyman stuff.

smile
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