Dave,

A self-admitted fish snob reporting here . . .

It seems that the keys to really high quality salmon are a combination of adult freshwater migration distance, which scores a lot of points for Yukon kings (and chums too, not that I've ever had them), and the time span between freshwater entrance and spawning date. It makes general sense that the fish that migrates a long ways and has a long freshwater residence prior to spawning will have the highest lipid content. Of course, fat content varies from fish to fish as well as between populations, but these two variables generally seem to set fish apart.

I used to think that Copper River or similar early run Alaska kings were the undisputed super-stars of edible fish. And that was not meant to disparage early spring and summer chinook running to the Fraser and Skagit. Those were before I tried my first Columbia River springer. They are why I have springer fever along with so many salmon afficianados. Other candidates as excellent table fare are the Columbia summer chinook and the upriver brights. These are kings that have fairly long migrations and time between freshwater entrance and spawning.

I'm also partial to sockeye, but they are not all the same. Some are almost mediocre, while others make a "to die for" meal. Seldom available, but the very best are the Early Stuart run in the Fraser - 800 mile migration and over 3 months in freshwater. I've had some Alaska sockeye, including Copper River one year, that was truly ordinary. Must have been poor ocean feeding conditions, as the fish were small that year as well. The Baker/Lk WA sockeye are pretty good eating. Their migration isn't very long, but their freshwater residence time is long, entering freshwater in late June, early July, and spawning from late September to late December.

Sebastes post about fish handling is another key. Even the best salmon can be ruined by poor handling. I'll add that fresh, not frozen, salmon is always the best. However I'll admit that I've twice had early AK kings that were flash frozen and vacuum packed that I couldn't tell from fresh, altho I tried my darnest to discern at least some subjective difference. So I've come to believe that salmon processed that way can be as good as and indistinguishable from fresh.

A further comment about quality salmon. It doesn't need and IMO shouldn't be abused with a bunch of seasonings, marinades, or the like. Those have no purpose beyond masking the true flavor of the fish. I season salmon with salt. Human taste buds are very sensitive to salt, and salt makes food sweeter and brings out more of the fish's flavor than cooking without it. The alder smoke from my BBQ fire is the only flavor additive I use on salmon.

Being the fish snob that I am, I'm in an ongoing, unresolved, contest with a woman from Vashon Island regarding which of us prepares the best BBQ salmon in the world - claims we made in front of a large group. If I can get a springer this week or next I hope to settle this issue once and for all (like there's no subjectivity involved in this dispute at all, ha ha!)

Oh, and the other fish. Yes, they can be good too, but there's a lot of variability. Like Parker mentioned, and early summer steelhead is darn good, but it tastes like a trout, not a salmon, not to hold that against it. I've had coho at times that was so good I thought I was eating chinook. Oddly, some of those were Bouy 10 coho (70 degree water), so go figure. But bled coming over the rail and onto ice, they were superb fresh on the BBQ.

Oh, did I mention that I'm a little bit of a fish snob? And that I have no opinions on fish, only objective facts? (t.i.c.)

Sg