Usually a good opening move on any endeavor. Keep it up....

If your new rifle has a stock with an aluminum bedding block, it's likely an H&S Precision. Their blocks have a slight V-shape to them so they contact the action about 30 degrees either side of vertical and work well. The stock's lug well is liberal so make sure when you tighten her down, you stand things up on the butt so the lug is as far aft as gravity will take it without inducing any stresses. Hopefully, the lug is against the block without binding the two action bolts. Bedding the action, like most things, makes for warm-fuzzies. Before you go globbing Acra-Glas Gel or J-B Weld all over, read the beginning sentences above. Work up loads as-is and she if she shines after eliminating variables. If you still want to bed it, there are things you will need to have handy, and to know, to preclude having to hog things out with a Dremel and starting over....

To nip things in the bud when mounting new scope bases/rail, do it dry first to "time" screw revolutions without base/rail first and then with base/rail second. If you get less revolutions on round 2, that particular screw is screwing you. Watch the forward ring/rail mount screw closest as they can oft run into the barrel shank, sit proud and really mess with accuracy. Pull the bolt and oggle inside of receiver to make sure none are proud. Shave threads as required. Only then dope the base/rail screws with blue Lok-Tite and torque the bases/rail down. I also put a *thin* layer of marine grease or Frog Lube paste on the two mating surfaces of the receiver/rail to keep water out.

Set scope's forward/aft location for your comfort/eye box with rings as far apart as possible without bumping the objective bell or parallax ring. To get the scopes vertical crosshair perfectly plumb, a low budget way is to use a quality torpedo level set transverse to the base rail with the rifle swaddled and set up just snug in vise. The flat erector turret on the SWFA will provide a similar perch for the level when you set it in the saddle. Snug rings up a tad and verify all is good to your eyes before doping screws and torquing, making sure to keep the gaps in the rings even from side-to-side. Oggle things again before letting LokTite cure.

In regard to the $pendy optics mentioned above in this thread, how many have erectors that match the reticle for obvious benefits? How many have focus/parallax adjustment down to 10 paces? How many are proven to flawlessly track/RTZ after stupid amounts of MOA/mil inputs? Of those that do, how many are less than 5x the cost of the humble SWFA?

By a mile....