Out of curiosity, I take it that you do not own a lapping bar, CDI torque female hex drive (or similar) and something like a Wheeler level? These are BASIC smithing tools that all wanna-be gun smith/owners should own and know how to use.

There was a reason why it was canted - what was that reason, or did they not tell you?

Man, and to think got I razzed on by Sol Dunce for not using a multi-axis cnc machine to make my own receivers, parts, as well as to forge and mill my own barrels. I can't even imagine taking a rifle in to anywhere to mount a scope and bore sight it for me. Ugh.

PS. You get 4 rounds to zero your rifle. First two rounds are to see where the boolit hits the paper and to confirm all bolts and screw are secured in place. You should be happy with the grouping on these two shots and proof that all is tight and well with the rifle and scope.

Since you've listened to Driftin', you've already done your JBM homework and know exactly how many clicks on the dials are needed to make the adjustments to hit your calculated target point at zero from whatever sight in range you are using.

(I normally zero my rifles at 200 or 250 and sight in at 50 only because I don't have to walk as far to set my target.)

Second boolit confirms that you can count clicks at where your paper is standing.

Third boolit hits your second boolit. Loosen the little hex nuts on the dials, set to 0, re-tighten and you're good to go.

Done. Tell us how you do on your 4 boolits. No cheating!

Any more shootin' and you're just doing BigStick a disservice by "breaking in" your rifle.



My last Leopold scope wouldn't take the beloved M1 turret, so I got my free CDS turret from them. It's pre-set for yardage out to 800 or so and not MOA like the M1. Easier on the eyes for those that can't read a chart taped to the side of a stock I guess. Hey, it was free!