Again, slow down and read/research if you don't know. Especially before you $pend. As I asked my #2 son years ago in his tender youth, "Who's responsible for your education?"

Your fine rifle is akin to the built 350 you've talked about. Tune and enhance but don't be pulling spark plug wires in frustration/ignorance....

Reticle focus is independent of and not the same as the parallax adjustment/optic focus. Pull off the scope's aft BC scope cover and notice the white "+ 0 -" . Twist the eye cup a little one way then t'other until the reticle is sharp and clear to *your* eye. That setting won't change, regardless of distance or optic focus, until your eyes do. To restate the obvious for those that can't discern same, the overall image may be fuzzy if you have the parallax/focus adjustment ring set at 100 yards and you are trying to focus the reticle at a white wall at 20 paces. Savvy?

To repeat myself, read up on optic parallax. Next time you have your rifle on a bench/bags and you have your reticle properly focused, slowly turn the parallax adjustment ring (marked in yards to infinity, not the "+ 0 -" ring) until the viewed image becomes sharp. You're most likely there at longer distances but as a final check, slightly move your head side-to-side. If the reticle doesn't move on the bullseye, your golden and parallax is too. Shoot away. To see the difference, dial the parallax ring until the image gets a tad fuzzy at a target at say 25 paces and then move your head slightly. The reticle will move relative to the fixed bullseye. This is even more important at shorter distances. For my field target air rifle, I have a large diameter side wheel ring on the focus/parallax knob marked in yards to both range distance and adjust parallax when one tries to thread a .177" pellet through a .25" field target's steel face plate at 20 paces.

The front rest should be just aft of the sling lug and positioned consistently from poke-to-poke. There are plenty of vids/articles out there on proper BR shooting form/gear. Try a Rubbermaid tote (like a very short garbage can) to tote all your range gear around.

I'm not going to research it for you but you may not have enough rpm to stabilize heavier/longer bullets. Thus the poor groups for the heavy ELD's. You're probably OK but should check to be sure. By way of analogy, kids can spiral a Nerf football but not a real/larger one....

Finally, I'll suggest that you get a bore guide and a bottle of Barnes CR-10 and *read* the instructions before using it. Do that followed by running a patch dosed with JB Bore Paste until she screams for mercy. Follow that with a few isopropyl patches until they're clean. Since you're not using moly'd bullets, I like FrogLube liquid for bores. Copper fowling will hose accuracy. This process removes that variable. Just as Paker will tell you, always rod from the aft end....

Out.